The chunky sneaker trend was supposed to die years ago. We all thought the "dad shoe" aesthetic would peak with the 990v5 or maybe the 2002R, but then New Balance dropped the 9060 and basically shifted the entire conversation. It’s weird. It’s bulky. It looks like something out of a retro-futurist fever dream from the early 2000s. And yet, the New Balance 9060 black grey has become the absolute gold standard for anyone who actually has to walk further than their car to their desk.
It isn't just about the hype.
Honestly, the way this specific colorway handles light and shadow is what sells it. While the "Rain Cloud" or "Sea Salt" versions get all the love on Pinterest, the black and grey mix is the one you actually buy if you don't want to spend every Sunday morning with a toothbrush and a bottle of Jason Markk. It hides the city grime. It blends. It works with baggy denim or tapered sweats without making you look like you’re trying too hard to be a "sneakerhead."
Breaking Down the Y2K DNA
The 9060 isn't a new design in the traditional sense; it’s a remix. Designers James Lee and Yue Wu (the guy behind the legendary Refined Future/Protection Pack) looked at the 990 series and the 860v2 and just mashed them together. You can see the 990 heritage in the upper, but that midsole? That’s pure 860v2 on steroids.
The New Balance 9060 black grey features these exaggerated "sway bars" that give it a wide, stable stance. It feels solid. You’re not going to roll an ankle in these. The mesh is thick, breathable but structured, and the pigskin suede overlays—a New Balance staple—are dyed in these deep charcoal and obsidian tones that make the shoe feel expensive. It doesn’t have that cheap, synthetic sheen you find on some other mass-produced runners.
Let's talk about the pods.
The outsole has these triangular traction pods that look like something off a lunar lander. On most shoes, this would be a gimmick. Here, it’s a clever way to distribute weight. When you step down, those pods compress individually. It’s a mechanical sort of cushioning rather than just relying on a big slab of foam. It’s smart engineering hidden under a lot of "ugly-cool" aesthetics.
Why the Black Grey Colorway Beats the Rest
White shoes are a liability.
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If you live in a city like New York or London, a light grey or white mesh shoe stays clean for approximately twelve minutes. The New Balance 9060 black grey solves this by using a gradient of dark tones. The "Phantom" or "Castlerock" shades used in these iterations provide a depth that monochrome shoes usually lack. You get a dark charcoal mesh base, overlaid with jet black suede, and then these hits of lighter silver or grey on the "N" logo and the heel clip.
It’s tactical.
It also highlights the different textures. Suede, leather, mesh, and TPU all reflect light differently. In a bright white shoe, those details get washed out. In the black and grey version, every stitch and curve of that aggressive midsole stands out. It looks like a piece of industrial design. It's the difference between a generic sedan and a stealth bomber.
The Comfort Reality Check: ABZORB and SBS
Most people buy shoes because they look good, but they keep wearing them because they don't hurt. The 9060 uses a dual-density midsole that combines ABZORB and SBS cushioning.
ABZORB is New Balance's proprietary blend of foam and isoprene rubber. It’s designed to resist compression set. This means that unlike cheap EVA foam that feels "flat" after three months of wear, ABZORB stays springy. Then you have SBS, which is a non-cellular elastomer. It's firmer. It’s placed in the heel to provide stability so your foot doesn't sink in too far and cause fatigue over a long day.
You’ve probably noticed the CR device on the heel. That’s the translucent plastic clip. It’s not just there to look cool; it locks your heel into the footbed. If you have narrow heels, this is a lifesaver. It stops that annoying slipping sensation that usually happens with chunkier sneakers.
Sizing and Fit Nuance
Don't listen to the people who say "true to size" without an explanation.
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The New Balance 9060 black grey fits a bit differently than a standard 574 or 990. Because the toe box is slightly wider and the padding is so plush, many people find they have a bit of extra room up front.
If you like a snug, "locked-in" feel for performance, you might actually want to go down a half size. However, for most people using this as a lifestyle shoe, sticking to your true size is the play. It allows the foot to splay naturally. If you have wide feet (2E or 4E), you’re in luck—the 9060 is naturally wider than the 2002R or the 1906R. It’s one of the most "wide-foot friendly" silhouettes New Balance has released in years.
Versatility in Practice
How do you actually wear these without looking like a middle-aged dad at a BBQ? It’s all about proportions. Because the 9060 is so voluminous, skinny jeans are a hard no. They make your feet look like two giant loaves of bread.
Instead, go for a straight-leg trouser or a wide-cut chino. The hem of the pants should ideally sit right at the top of the tongue or slightly drape over the heel. This balances out the "heft" of the shoe.
The black and grey palette is a cheat code for outfits. You can wear it with:
- All-black techwear: Think cargos and a shell jacket.
- The "Grey-on-Grey" look: A classic New Balance staple.
- Washed denim and a heavy hoodie: The quintessential weekend fit.
- Workwear: Double-knee pants and a Carhartt jacket.
It works because the colors are muted. It lets the silhouette do the talking without screaming for attention with neon colors or weird branding.
Addressing the "Trend" Concern
Some people are worried that the 9060 is a "fad." They think it's too tied to the current Y2K trend to last.
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I disagree.
The 9060 is essentially the evolution of the 99X series. New Balance has a history of keeping these "chunky" silhouettes in their rotation for decades. Look at the 992 or the 993—those shoes were considered "bulky" when they launched, and now they are timeless classics. The 9060 is just the 2020s version of that philosophy. It’s a maximalist shoe built with minimalist colors. That’s a recipe for longevity.
Maintaining the Materials
Since the New Balance 9060 black grey uses premium pigskin suede, you can’t just throw them in the washing machine. That’s the fastest way to ruin the texture.
Invest in a suede eraser and a soft-bristle brush. If you get a scuff on the black suede, the eraser will usually lift it right out. For the grey mesh, a damp cloth with a tiny bit of mild soap is usually enough. The biggest enemy of these shoes isn't dirt; it's salt. If you’re wearing these in the winter, make sure to wipe off any road salt immediately, or it will "crust" the suede and turn it white.
Final Verdict on the 9060
Is it the most beautiful shoe ever made? Maybe not to everyone. But it is undeniably one of the most comfortable and well-constructed sneakers currently sitting on shelves. It bridges the gap between high-fashion "ugly" sneakers and actual athletic performance.
The black grey iteration specifically is the smart buy. It’s the colorway that survives the hype cycle because it’s functional. It doesn't ask you to be a different person; it just asks you to be comfortable while you go about your day.
Actionable Steps for Buyers:
- Check the SKU: Look for U9060blk or similar variants to ensure you're getting the specific pigskin suede version rather than a synthetic alternative.
- Go True to Size: Unless you have extremely narrow feet, your standard New Balance size is the safest bet for maximum comfort.
- Protection First: Spray them with a high-quality water and stain repellent (like Crep Protect or Reshoevn8r) before the first wear to protect that dark suede from water spots.
- Insole Check: If you have flat feet, the standard 9060 insole is actually pretty decent, but the shoe has enough volume to accommodate a custom orthotic if you need more arch support.
- Rotation is Key: Don't wear them every single day. The ABZORB foam needs about 24 hours to fully decompress and return to its original shape between wears.