You’re standing in a shoe store, or more likely, scrolling through a dozen browser tabs, and everything looks the same. There’s the flashy stuff that costs as much as a car payment and then there's the cheap stuff that feels like walking on cardboard. Honestly, the New Balance 520 mens lineup sits in that weird, beautiful middle ground that most people just blow past because it isn't "hyped" on social media. It’s a sleeper.
It’s the shoe for the guy who wants to look like he tried, but not too hard.
New Balance has this massive catalog, right? You’ve got the 990s that the "dad-core" fashionistas love, and the Fresh Foam stuff for serious marathoners. But the 520 is different. It’s a heritage-inspired silhouette that feels like a throwback to the 1970s running boom, but it’s been quietly updated so you don't actually feel every pebble on the sidewalk. It’s light. It’s breathable. It’s remarkably simple.
What the 520 actually is (and what it isn't)
Let’s get one thing straight: if you are training for a sub-three-hour marathon, the New Balance 520 mens probably isn’t your primary tool. Don't get me wrong, it’s a "running shoe" by definition and history, but in the modern world, it’s shifted. It’s a lifestyle-first sneaker. You wear it to the brewery. You wear it on a three-mile walk with the dog. You wear it when you’re traveling and know you’re going to be hitting 15,000 steps on cobblestone streets.
The design is rooted in the original 520 from decades ago. Back then, shoes were meant to be stripped down. No massive carbon plates. No "energy return" pods that look like alien technology. Just a solid rubber outsole, a foam midsole, and a mix of nylon and suede on the top.
That simplicity is its superpower.
Because it’s not over-engineered, it’s incredibly lightweight. Some of the high-end "stability" shoes feel like wearing bricks on your feet after four hours. The 520 stays out of the way. It’s basically the "white t-shirt" of footwear—it goes with everything and never feels like it's trying to steal the spotlight from the rest of your outfit.
Why the New Balance 520 mens keeps beating the "Fast Fashion" competition
We’ve all been tempted by those $40 shoes from a random brand at a big-box store. They look okay for about a week. Then the glue starts to fail. The foam collapses. Your arches start screaming for mercy.
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New Balance doesn't really do that, even at their entry-level price points.
The build quality on the 520 is surprisingly robust for a "value" shoe. They use a standard EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) foam. It’s old school. It’s predictable. Unlike some of the newer, softer foams that "bottom out" after a few months of heavy use, EVA tends to hold its shape longer for daily walking. It’s firmer. Some people hate that. They want that "walking on a marshmallow" feeling. But if you have lower back issues or flat feet, that extra bit of firmness in the New Balance 520 mens is actually a godsend. It provides a stable platform.
- The Suede Factor: Most 520 models use real suede overlays. This isn't just for looks; it provides structural integrity to the mesh.
- Breathability: The mesh toe box is wide-open. Your feet won't sweat through your socks by lunchtime.
- The Outsole: It usually features a classic "lugged" pattern. It’s grippy enough for a light trail but smooth enough for the grocery store.
The sizing trap most guys fall into
Listen, New Balance is famous for their widths. It’s their whole thing. However, the 520 often runs a little bit slimmer than something like the 574. If you have "flipper feet," you might find the midfoot a bit snug.
Check the tag.
If you see a "D" width, that’s standard. If you’re usually pushing the limits of your shoes, look for the "4E" or "2E" versions. A lot of guys complain that New Balance feels "tight," but it's usually just because they bought the standard width out of habit. The 520 has a lower profile than the chunky 574, so it hugs the foot more like a traditional 70s racer. It’s sleek. It doesn't make your feet look like giant loaves of bread.
Versatility is the actual selling point
You can't wear a neon-green high-performance running shoe to a casual Friday at the office without looking a little lost. But the New Balance 520 mens in a navy, charcoal, or forest green? That works.
I’ve seen guys pair these with tapered chinos and a button-down, and it looks sharp. It bridges that gap between "I've given up on life and I'm wearing gym clothes" and "I'm trying too hard to be a fashion icon." It’s effortless. Honestly, the grey colorway is the gold standard. It’s the "New Balance Grey" that has become a cult favorite globally. It hides dirt well, it ages with character, and it matches literally every color of denim known to man.
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There’s also a specific version of the 520—often labeled as the v7 or v8 in recent years—that leans more into the "technical" look with heat-bonded overlays rather than stitched suede. Those are great if you actually plan on hitting the gym. They’re easier to wipe down and they look a bit more modern. But for my money? Stick to the "Classics" version. The suede and nylon combo is timeless.
Maintenance: Keep them from looking trashed
Since many versions of the 520 use genuine suede, you can’t just throw them in the washing machine. Please, don't do that. The water will ruin the oils in the suede, making it stiff and brittle.
Get a suede brush. It costs five bucks.
If you get a scuff, brush it out. If they get wet, let them air dry away from a heater. Heat makes the glue brittle. Treat them with a little bit of respect, and a pair of 520s will easily last you a year or two of daily rotation. That’s a massive ROI when you consider the price point.
Real-world performance: What to expect
If you take these out for a run, you'll notice the "drop." The heel sits higher than the toe. This is classic geometry. It helps propel you forward. It’s not "bouncy," but it is "responsive." You feel the ground. For some people, that’s a downside. For others, especially those who hate the disconnected feeling of "maximalist" shoes with two inches of foam, it's exactly what they need.
The traction is solid on wet pavement. I wouldn't take them on a technical mountain hike—the 520 isn't built for lateral stability on uneven rocks—but for "urban exploration," they’re perfect.
The 520 vs. The 574: Which one should you actually buy?
This is the big debate. The 574 is the king of New Balance. It’s chunkier, it has the ENCAP midsole (which is a core of soft foam inside a hard shell), and it’s arguably more durable.
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But the New Balance 520 mens is lighter.
It feels faster on the foot. If the 574 is a rugged SUV, the 520 is a vintage sports car. It’s thinner, lower to the ground, and a bit more elegant. If you have skinny legs, the 574 can sometimes look like you’re wearing weights. The 520 balances out a slimmer silhouette much better.
Also, price. Usually, the 520 sits about $10 to $20 cheaper than the 574. In a world where everything is getting more expensive, that's a tank of gas or a decent lunch. You aren't losing much in the way of "tech" because, let's be honest, both are lifestyle shoes at this point.
Why the "Hype" ignores this shoe
The sneaker world is obsessed with "drops" and "limited editions." The 520 doesn't usually get the flashy collaborations with high-end boutiques. It just exists. It’s a "working man’s shoe."
Because it’s not hyped, it’s actually available.
You don't have to enter a raffle or pay a reseller 300% markup to get a pair of New Balance 520 mens. You just go to the store and buy them. There is something deeply satisfying about a product that is consistently good, consistently available, and doesn't require a social media campaign to justify its existence. It’s honest footwear.
Actionable steps for your next purchase
- Check your arch height. If you have high arches, the 520 is great. If you have extremely flat feet, you might want to swap the stock insole for something with more support, like a Superfeet or Powerstep insert. The 520 has a removable insole, which makes this easy.
- Look for the "Classic" vs. "v-series." Decide if you want the 1970s retro vibe (suede/nylon) or the modern gym vibe (synthetic/mesh). They are functionally different shoes sharing the same name.
- Go half a size up if you're between sizes. New Balance "Classics" tend to run a tiny bit short in the toe box compared to modern Nikes or Adidas.
- Buy a protector spray. Before you wear them the first time, hit that suede with a water-repellent spray. It takes thirty seconds and saves you from a permanent salt or water stain a week later.
- Rotation is key. Don't wear the same pair of shoes every single day. Letting the foam "decompress" for 24 hours between wears can actually double the lifespan of the midsole.
The New Balance 520 mens isn't going to change your life, and it’s not going to make you jump higher or run like an Olympian. But it will be the shoe you find yourself reaching for at 7:00 AM when you just need to get out the door and know your feet won't hurt by 5:00 PM. It’s reliable. It’s affordable. It’s a classic for a reason.
Stick to the neutral colors, mind the width, and don't overthink it. It’s just a damn good shoe.