Honestly, walking into The Mission Inn Hotel Riverside California feels less like checking into a Marriott property and more like accidentally stumbling onto a European film set from 1920. It’s huge. It’s confusing. There are stairs that lead to nowhere and bells that haven't rung in decades. You might expect a hotel in the Inland Empire to be a standard stucco box, but this place is a sprawling, four-acre jigsaw puzzle of Spanish Gothic, Mission Revival, and Renaissance styles that shouldn't work together, yet somehow they do.
It started as a simple adobe boarding house in 1876. Frank Miller, the man who basically willed this place into existence, didn't have a master plan. He just kept adding stuff. He’d travel to Europe or Asia, see a bell or a tile he liked, and buy it. Then he’d come home and tell his architects to build a whole new wing around it.
The Architect of a Fever Dream
Frank Miller wasn't an architect. He was a visionary with a deep love for the "Mission" aesthetic, even if his version of it was more of a romanticized fantasy than a historical reenactment. He saw the California Missions not just as religious outposts, but as a brand for the Golden State.
You can see this in the International Shrine of Aviation. It’s located in the basement. Yeah, a shrine for pilots in a hotel basement. It features copper wings signed by famous aviators like Amelia Earhart and Charles Lindbergh. Why is it there? Because Miller loved the idea of "heroes of the air" and wanted to give them a place of honor. This is the kind of specific, slightly eccentric detail that makes the Mission Inn different from any Hilton you've ever stayed in.
The hotel isn't just a place to sleep. It’s a repository of things Miller thought were cool. Take the Raincross symbol. You’ll see it everywhere—on the lamps, the rugs, even the manhole covers nearby. Miller actually trademarked that design. It’s a combination of a Navajo dragonfly (a symbol of life-giving water) and a Spanish mission bell. It’s a weird mashup of cultures that defines the Inland Empire’s visual identity to this day.
Presidential Suites and Giant Chairs
If you want to talk about "clout," this hotel has had it for over a century. Ten U.S. Presidents have visited. Teddy Roosevelt stayed here. Richard Nixon got married here—in the Presidential Suite, no less. Ronald and Nancy Reagan spent their honeymoon here.
There’s a legendary piece of furniture in the lobby: a massive, custom-built chair for William Howard Taft. Taft was a large man. When he visited in 1909, the hotel staff realized their standard chairs wouldn't be comfortable for a sitting President of his stature. So, they built him a throne. It’s still there. You can’t sit in it now, but seeing it gives you a sense of the "larger-than-life" hospitality Miller practiced.
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The Architecture is a Mess (In the Best Way)
Some critics over the years have called the Mission Inn "architectural schizophrenia." They aren't wrong.
You have the St. Francis Atrio, which looks like a 17th-century Spanish courtyard. Then there's the Author’s Row, where famous writers like Booker T. Washington and Mark Twain walked. Then you have the Cloister Wing, which feels like a medieval monastery.
One of the most stunning spots is the St. Francis of Assisi Chapel. It’s a wedding factory now, sure, but look at the details. The gold-leafed Rayas altar dates back to the mid-18th century and came from Guanajuato, Mexico. The Tiffany stained-glass windows are original and breathtaking. Most people just snap a selfie and move on, but if you look at the craftsmanship of the "Life of Christ" windows, you’re looking at some of the finest glasswork in the United States.
It’s not perfect. The hotel fell into massive disrepair in the 1970s and 80s. It was almost torn down. It sat vacant for years. But a local developer named Duane Roberts bought it in 1992 and poured millions into saving it. That’s why it exists today. It was a gamble. Riverside in the early 90s wasn't exactly a high-end tourist destination. Roberts saw what Miller saw: a place that offered something you couldn't find in a suburb.
The Festival of Lights Madness
If you visit during the holidays, be prepared. The Festival of Lights is a massive deal. We're talking millions of lights—around five million, usually. It draws hundreds of thousands of people to downtown Riverside.
Is it crowded? Yes. Is it a bit much? Absolutely. But there is something genuinely magical about the switch-on ceremony. The hotel gets covered in animatronic characters, carolers, and enough LEDs to be seen from space. It’s the one time of year when the Inland Empire feels like the center of the world.
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During the rest of the year, the vibe is much quieter. You can take a guided tour through the Mission Inn Museum. Do this. Don't just wander around. The tours get you into the areas that are normally locked off to the public, like the higher balconies and some of the more ornate banquet rooms. You’ll learn about the "catacombs"—which are really just basement storage areas that Miller turned into a weird, atmospheric walkway for guests.
What You Should Actually Do When You Visit
Most people come for dinner at the Mission Inn Restaurant and leave. That's a mistake.
First, go to the Spanish Art Gallery. It has a ceiling that is basically a work of art in itself, and the room feels like it belongs in the Prado in Madrid. It’s often used for weddings, but if it’s empty, the acoustics are haunting.
Second, check out the Kelly’s Spa. Even if you aren't getting a massage, the entrance is beautiful. It’s tucked away and feels very private, contrasting with the more public "grandeur" of the lobby.
Third, look for the bells. Miller was obsessed with bells. He collected hundreds of them from all over the world. The Famous Bells of the Mission Inn include one that is supposedly from 1247. It’s the oldest dated bell in Christendom (or so the story goes). Whether it's exactly that old or not is debated by historians, but it's a massive, heavy piece of history regardless.
Addressing the "Haunted" Rumors
Is The Mission Inn Hotel Riverside California haunted? People love to say it is.
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Guests frequently report seeing the "Blue Lady" or hearing footsteps in the empty hallways of the fourth floor. Frank Miller’s daughter, Alice, is said to still wander her old apartment. Whether you believe in ghosts or just think old buildings make weird noises, the atmosphere at 2:00 AM in those narrow corridors is definitely spooky. The combination of heavy velvet curtains, dark wood, and stone statues creates a vibe that is very "Gothic Horror."
Navigating the Practical Stuff
Let’s be real about the rooms. Because this is a historic building, the rooms are all different. Some are tiny. Some are huge. Some have windows that look out onto a stunning courtyard; others look at a brick wall. If you’re booking, you have to be specific about what you want. The "Mission Room" category is usually the entry-level, but if you can swing a "Junior Suite," you’ll get a much better feel for the architecture.
Parking is a bit of a pain. Valet is expensive. There are city garages nearby that are cheaper, but if you’re staying the night, the convenience of the valet is usually worth the hit to your wallet.
Why It Still Matters in 2026
In an age where every hotel chain is trying to look "modern" and "minimalist," the Mission Inn is a stubborn holdout for maximalism. It’s loud. It’s cluttered. It’s ornate. It reminds us that architecture doesn't always have to be "efficient." It can be a hobby. It can be a collection.
It represents a time when California was trying to figure out its own identity. It’s a monument to one man’s obsession and a city’s refusal to let a piece of its history die. If you're traveling through Southern California, skipping this for a beach hotel in OC is a mistake. You can find a beach anywhere. You can only find this weird, beautiful fortress in Riverside.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Book the Museum Tour early: These fill up, especially on weekends. It is the only way to see the "behind the scenes" areas like the catacombs and the upper levels of the chapel.
- Eat at Mario's Place across the street: While the hotel food is decent, Mario’s is a legendary local Italian spot right across the way that offers a different perspective on the downtown vibe.
- Check the wedding schedule: If you’re planning to photograph the chapel or the spiral staircases, call ahead. If there are five weddings on a Saturday, those areas will be blocked off.
- Visit in the "shoulder season": Late October or early November is great. You get the crisp Fall air, fewer crowds than the Festival of Lights, and the hotel feels more intimate.
- Look for the "A" on the chimney: There are hidden symbols everywhere. Finding the various initials and trademarks of the Miller family throughout the masonry is like a real-world scavenger hunt.
The Mission Inn isn't just a hotel. It’s a labryinth of California history. Take your time, get lost in the hallways, and don't worry about finding your way back to the lobby immediately. That’s part of the fun.