You’ve probably seen the photos. That dizzying mix of spiral staircases, flying buttresses, and bells that look like they belong in a Hitchcock film. But honestly, walking into The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa Riverside CA for the first time is a bit of a trip. It’s a sensory overload. One minute you’re in a dusty Inland Empire suburb, and the next, you’re standing in a courtyard that feels like a fever dream of 15th-century Spain, Renaissance Italy, and a touch of Gilded Age California. It’s weird. It’s grand. It’s completely unique.
Most people call it a hotel. That's technically true, but it's really a massive, living art project that took over 30 years to bake.
Frank Miller—the guy who started it all—wasn't an architect. He was a visionary with a very deep pocket and a borderline obsession with bells. He took a humble 12-room adobe boarding house called the "Glenwood" and spent his life turning it into a 238-room National Historic Landmark. It spans an entire city block. You can get lost in the hallways here, and frankly, you probably should.
The Architecture is a Beautiful Mess
If you ask a traditional historian to categorize the style of The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa Riverside CA, they might start twitching. It’s not just "Mission Revival." It’s everything. Miller traveled the world, saw things he liked, and basically told his architects to "add it on."
You have the Mission Wing, which feels heavy and monastic. Then you hit the Cloister Wing with its catacombs and the famous "Flagg’s" bells. By the time you get to the International Rotunda, you’re looking at five stories of circular balconies and a massive wrought-iron chandelier. It shouldn't work. By all rules of design, it should be an eyesore. Instead, it’s a masterpiece of eclecticism.
One of the coolest spots is the St. Francis Chapel. It houses a 100-year-old Rayas altar from Mexico that is literally dripping in gold leaf. There are also Tiffany stained-glass windows. Not "Tiffany-style." Actual Louis Comfort Tiffany windows that Miller bought in the 1920s. Standing in there, you realize this place was built at a time when "over-the-top" was just the starting point.
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The Presidential Connection
This isn't just a place for tourists; it's a place for power. Ten U.S. Presidents have walked these halls. Teddy Roosevelt stayed here. Richard Nixon got married here—right in the Presidential Suite. Ronald and Nancy Reagan spent their honeymoon here.
There’s a specific "Presidential Chair" in the lobby. It’s huge. Legend says it was custom-built for William Howard Taft because, well, he was a large man and couldn't fit into the standard furniture of the era. Whether that's 100% true or just a great bit of local lore, the chair is there, and it’s massive. You can feel the weight of history in the wood.
What Actually Happens at Kelly’s Spa?
Let’s talk about the "Spa" part of The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa Riverside CA. Kelly’s Spa is often ranked among the top hotel spas in the country by Condé Nast Traveler. It’s not your typical clinical, white-walled massage clinic. It feels like a Mediterranean villa inside a castle.
The vibe is very Tuscan. They do the whole "total wellness" thing, but the real draw is the atmosphere. If you're staying at the hotel, even just walking through the spa entrance feels like your heart rate drops ten beats per minute. They use a lot of local citrus-infused products, which is a nice nod to Riverside’s history as the citrus capital of the world back in the day.
The Food Scene Isn't Just for Guests
You don't have to book a room to experience the Inn. The Mission Inn Restaurant serves up a pretty legendary Sunday Brunch. It's pricey, yeah, but you're eating in a courtyard surrounded by hand-carved stone and ancient bells.
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For something a bit more tucked away, there’s Duane’s Prime Steaks and Seafood. It’s been an AAA Four Diamond rated spot for decades. It’s old school. Dark wood, heavy napkins, impeccable service. Then you have the Presidential Lounge, which is where you go if you want a stiff martini and a chance to feel like a mid-century diplomat.
The Festival of Lights Madness
If you plan on visiting The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa Riverside CA between late November and early January, brace yourself. The Festival of Lights is one of the biggest holiday light displays in the United States. They use about five million lights.
It’s crowded. Like, really crowded.
People come from all over Southern California to see the "switch-on" ceremony. The hotel is draped in animatronic carolers, angels, and more lights than you can count. If you’re a guest during this time, you get special access, which is basically the only way to see the decorations without fighting a wall of people. Pro tip: if you want the "magic" without the stress, visit on a Tuesday night in mid-December. Avoid the weekends at all costs.
Why It Almost Disappeared
It’s hard to imagine now, but in the 1970s, the Inn was a wreck. It was aging, expensive to maintain, and the city wasn't sure what to do with it. It changed hands several times. At one point, there were whispers of it being demolished or turned into apartments.
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It was Duane Roberts—a local businessman who made his fortune in the frozen food industry (he’s the guy who invented the frozen burrito)—who saved it in 1992. He dumped millions into a massive renovation to bring it back to its 1920s glory. Most of what you see today is a result of that meticulous restoration. Without that intervention, this block of Riverside history would likely be a parking lot or a bland office complex.
Room Tips and Secrets
If you’re booking a stay, know that no two rooms are the same. This isn't a Marriott where every floor is a carbon copy. Some rooms are tiny and feel like monk cells (in a cool, historical way). Others are sprawling suites with private patios.
- The Mission Wing: These rooms tend to feel the most "historic." Think thick walls and heavy doors.
- The Author’s Suite: It’s where people like Anne Rice have stayed. It’s moody and inspiring.
- The Alhambra Suite: If you want the full Moorish-fantasy experience, this is the one.
One thing to keep in mind: because it’s an old building, the plumbing can be a bit... temperamental. The floors creak. The elevators are small. If you want a sterile, ultra-modern experience, go somewhere else. You stay at the Mission Inn for the character, not the high-speed elevators.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you're heading to The Mission Inn Hotel and Spa Riverside CA, don't just wing it. To get the most out of the experience, follow these specific steps:
- Book a Docent-Led Tour: You can’t see the best parts of the hotel (like the interior of the chapel or the higher balconies) unless you’re on a tour with the Mission Inn Museum. They run daily and are worth every penny of the $20-ish fee.
- Check the Event Calendar: The hotel hosts everything from ghost tours in October to massive weddings. If there's a huge event, some of the best courtyards might be closed to the public.
- Visit the Museum First: Located on the corner of the building, the museum gives you the context of Frank Miller’s life. It makes the architecture make sense.
- Eat at Las Campanas: For a more casual vibe than the steakhouse, the outdoor Mexican patio is incredible. Get the margaritas; they don't skimp.
- Look for the Macaws: The Inn has a long history with exotic birds. Look for the colorful macaws that often hang out in the courtyards—they are local celebrities in their own right.
The Mission Inn isn't just a hotel; it's a testament to what happens when one person has a massive ego, an obsession with history, and the drive to build something that outlasts them. It’s quirky, slightly chaotic, and utterly beautiful.