If you’ve ever walked into a reptile expo and seen a coil of jet-black scales that looks like it was dipped in liquid obsidian, you were likely looking at a Mexican black king snake. They’re striking. Seriously. Most snakes have patterns, bands, or spots designed to break up their silhouette in the wild, but this subspecies of the Desert kingsnake (Lampropeltis getula nigrita) decided that "all black everything" was the move.
It works.
These snakes have become the darlings of the hobbyist world lately, and for good reason. They aren't just pretty faces. Or pretty scales. They’re hardy, manageable in size, and have a personality that ranges from "curious explorer" to "I think your thumb is a mouse." If you’re tired of the typical corn snake or find ball pythons a bit too sedentary, the MBK—as the community calls them—is basically the sports car of the colubrid world. Sleek. Fast. Occasionally loud.
What Actually Is a Mexican Black King Snake?
Let’s get the taxonomy out of the way because people get it wrong constantly. For a long time, these were classified strictly as a subspecies. Recent genetic work by herpetologists like Pyron and Burbrink has shifted how we view the Lampropeltis genus, but in the pet trade, the name Mexican black king snake stuck. They primarily hail from the Sonoran Desert and parts of Sinaloa, Mexico, as well as bits of Arizona.
They live in a harsh world.
Think about the desert for a second. It isn't just sand dunes; it's rocky outcrops, scrubland, and intense temperature swings. This environment shaped them into the resilient animals they are today. They are opportunistic hunters. In the wild, they’ll eat rodents, birds, lizards, and—this is the "king" part—other snakes. Yes, they are ophiophagous. They possess a natural immunity to the venom of rattlesnakes found in their range. If a rattlesnake meets an MBK, the rattlesnake is usually the one in trouble.
The Pitch-Black Aesthetic and Why it Changes
New owners often get worried when their "jet black" snake arrives with tiny white or yellow spots. Relax. It’s normal.
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Hatchlings often sport small "dusting" marks along their sides or chin. As the snake matures and goes through successive shed cycles, those spots usually vanish, leaving behind that iconic, iridescent black sheen. By the time they hit three or four years old, most are solid black. Their bellies are often a leaden, metallic grey or black, which looks incredible when they're draped over a piece of ghostwood or cork bark.
They aren't huge. A big female might hit four or five feet, but most stay around the three-to-four-foot range. This makes them the "Goldilocks" of pet snakes. They’re large enough to feel like a real animal in your hands, but small enough that a 40-gallon breeder or a 4-foot PVC enclosure is plenty of space for their entire life.
Temperament: The "Hungry" Reputation
If you ask a group of keepers about Mexican black king snake temperament, you’ll get two answers. One person will say their snake is a puppy. The next will show you a photo of the snake latched onto their pinky finger.
Both are right.
MBKs have an incredibly high feeding response. In their heads, everything that moves is potentially a meal. This isn't aggression; it's enthusiasm. They aren't "mean" in the way some wild-caught racers or rat snakes can be defensive. They’re just... focused. Once they realize you aren't a giant mouse, they usually settle down and become quite inquisitive. They move with purpose. Unlike a ball python that might sit in a ball for three hours, an MBK will weave through your fingers, check out your watch, and try to climb up your glasses.
Handling Tips for the Nervous Owner
If your snake is a bit "nippy," don't use gardening gloves. You lose all tactile feedback. Instead, use a small snake hook to gently tap the snake on the head or mid-body before reaching in. This "breaks" the feeding response. It tells the snake, "Hey, it’s handling time, not dinner time." Once they're out of the cage, they’re usually fine. Just watch out for the "musk." If they get really scared, they can release a foul-smelling liquid from their cloaca. It smells like rotting cabbage mixed with regret. You’ll only want that to happen once.
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Habitat Setup: Simulating the Sonoran Scrub
You don't need a PhD in biology to keep a Mexican black king snake alive, but you do need to respect their origins.
Substrate Choice
Stop using sand. I know, they’re from the "desert," but they don't live on Saharan dunes. Pure sand can cause impaction if swallowed and it's terrible for holding any semblance of burrows. Use a mix. A blend of organic topsoil, play sand, and maybe some excavator clay works wonders. It allows them to do what they love most: digging. If you want to keep it simple, aspen shavings are fine, though they look a bit "cheap" against the black scales of the snake.
Temperature and Light
They need a gradient. You can't just heat the whole tank to 90 degrees. That’s how you get a dead snake. Aim for a warm side of about 88-90°F and a cool side in the mid-70s.
Do they need UV lighting?
Technically, they can survive without it if you're supplementing their diet correctly. But they thrive with it. A low-output UVB tube (like a Shadedweller) mimics the dappled sunlight they’d get under a mesquite bush. It helps their D3 synthesis and, honestly, makes their scales look like a rainbow under the light.
Humidity is the Secret
People think "desert snake" and assume 0% humidity. Wrong. The Sonoran Desert has monsoon seasons and humid microclimates underground. If the air is too dry, your snake will have a "bad shed," where the skin comes off in ragged patches instead of one clean piece. Keep a humid hide—a plastic box with damp moss inside—available at all times. This lets the snake choose its own humidity level.
The Feeding Routine
Feeding a Mexican black king snake is the easiest part of owning one. They aren't picky. While ball python owners are crying because their snake hasn't eaten in six months because the moon is in the wrong phase, the MBK is staring at the glass waiting for its next rodent.
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- Hatchlings: Every 5-7 days (Pinky mice).
- Juveniles: Every 7-10 days (Fuzzies to Hoppers).
- Adults: Every 10-14 days (Adult mice or small rats).
Don't overfeed. These snakes are prone to obesity, which puts a massive strain on their internal organs and shortens their lifespan. An overweight king snake looks like a link of sausage with scales. You want a firm, muscular "loaf" shape, not a round tube.
Common Misconceptions and Troubleshooting
There is a myth that you can't keep king snakes together. This isn't a myth. It's a fact. Do not cohabitate them. Because they eat other snakes, putting two in one tank usually ends with one very fat snake and one missing snake. Even breeding pairs have to be monitored with extreme caution.
Another thing: the "vibrating tail." If your MBK starts shaking its tail against the substrate, it’s mimicking a rattlesnake. It’s a bluff. It’s trying to sound scary. It’s honestly kind of cute once you realize they’re just being dramatic.
If your snake stops eating suddenly, check two things:
- The Blue: Is the snake about to shed? Their eyes will turn milky blue and their skin will look dull. They won't want to eat during this time.
- Brumation: In the winter, even in a heated house, they can feel the atmospheric pressure change. They might slow down and refuse food for a few weeks. As long as they aren't losing significant weight, it’s just nature doing its thing.
Why Choose an MBK Over Other Snakes?
Honestly, it’s the engagement. Most "beginner" snakes are boring. There, I said it. A Rosy Boa is great, but it’s a pet rock. A Mexican black king snake is an active participant in its environment. When you walk into the room, they often come to the glass to see what’s going on. They’re bold. They don't spend 24 hours a day hidden under a rock (though they should have the option to).
They live a long time too. We’re talking 15 to 20 years with good care. This is a long-term commitment. You're buying a companion that will be with you through multiple stages of your life.
Actionable Steps for Potential Owners
If you're sold on getting one, don't just run to the nearest big-box pet store. Those snakes are often stressed and may have parasites.
- Find a reputable breeder. Look on platforms like MorphMarket or attend a local reptile expo. Ask the breeder if the snake is "established"—meaning it has had at least three consecutive frozen/thawed meals.
- Set up the enclosure FIRST. Don't bring the snake home and then realize your heat mat is too hot or your lid doesn't lock. Get the temperatures dialed in for 48 hours before the snake arrives.
- Invest in a thermostat. Never plug a heating element directly into a wall outlet. It can malfunction and burn the snake. A thermostat is the most important piece of safety equipment you'll buy.
- Buy a kitchen scale. Weigh your snake once a month. It’s the easiest way to track health. A drop in weight is often the first sign of an underlying issue before the snake even looks "sick."
The Mexican black king snake is a masterpiece of evolution. It’s a predator that looks like a piece of night sky, hardy enough for a novice but interesting enough for a lifelong keeper. Respect their feed drive, give them room to dig, and you'll have one of the most rewarding displays in the reptile kingdom.