You’re walking down Amsterdam Avenue on a Tuesday night. It’s raining—not a light drizzle, but that annoying New York soak—and you figure, hey, maybe tonight is the night the crowds stay home. You pull open the door at The Mermaid Inn Upper West Side and the wall of sound hits you before the smell of Old Bay does. The place is packed. It’s always packed. Honestly, it’s kind of impressive how Danny Abrams and Cindy Smith managed to bottle a specific type of coastal nostalgia and transplant it into a landlocked Manhattan block so effectively that people will wait an hour for a stool even when the weather is miserable.
Most seafood spots in the city try too hard. They either go full "white tablecloth and silver service" where a piece of sea bass costs as much as a car payment, or they lean into the kitschy "shiver me timbers" vibe that feels like a theme park. This place doesn't do that. It feels like a high-end fish shack in Montauk that somehow grew up, got a sophisticated lighting package, and moved to the city to find a real job.
What's Actually Going On With That New Location?
If you haven't been in a while, you might be confused. For years, the "old" Mermaid Inn was a cozy, slightly cramped spot on Amsterdam and 88th. It was great, but it was tight. During the pandemic era, things got shaky, as they did for everyone. There was a moment where we all thought it was gone for good. But then, they pulled a power move. They didn't just reopen; they moved into the massive space formerly occupied by Han Dynasty at 335 Columbus Avenue.
It’s bigger. It’s louder. It’s arguably better, though some old-school locals miss the intimacy of the 88th Street hole-in-the-wall. The current Mermaid Inn Upper West Side is a sprawling machine of hospitality. There’s a massive marble bar that anchors the room, and the seating stretches back seemingly forever. It had to happen. You can’t run a neighborhood staple with a three-hour wait list forever without expanding. The move to Columbus Avenue changed the geography, but the DNA stayed exactly the same.
The Happy Hour Cult
Let’s talk about the Happy Hour because, frankly, that’s why half of you are reading this. It’s legendary. It’s also competitive. People treat Mermaid Inn Happy Hour like a contact sport. From 4:30 PM to 6:30 PM (and yes, they are strict about those times), the prices drop to a level that feels like a glitch in the New York City economy.
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You get oysters. You get sliders. You get the "Mermaid Mary."
But here’s the thing people get wrong: they think they can just stroll in at 5:00 PM and find a spot at the bar. You won't. If you aren't there by 4:15 PM, hovering near the door like you’re waiting for a concert to start, you’re sitting at a regular table at full price. Is it worth the hustle? Yeah, probably. The East Coast oysters are fresh, briny, and actually shucked correctly—no shell shards, which is a pet peeve of mine.
Beyond the Raw Bar: What to Actually Eat
Look, everyone gets the calamari. It’s fine. It’s good! But it’s predictable. If you’re eating at The Mermaid Inn Upper West Side, you should be looking at the stuff that defines the "American Fish Shack" genre.
- The Lobster Roll: They serve it "northern style," which means cold with mayo and celery on a toasted brioche bun. It’s hefty. They don't skimp on the claw meat. Some people argue about the price-to-size ratio, but in Manhattan, it’s actually one of the more honest versions of the dish.
- Fish Tacos: These are the unsung heroes of the menu. They use blackened tilapia (usually), and the crema has just enough kick to make it interesting without blowing your palate out for the wine.
- The Free Pudding: This is the ultimate "if you know, you know" detail. At the end of every meal, they bring out a little cup of chocolate pudding and a fortune teller miracle fish. It’s a cheap trick. It costs them pennies. And yet, if they ever stopped doing it, the neighborhood would probably riot. It’s that final touch of "we don't take ourselves too seriously" that makes the place work.
The menu isn't trying to reinvent the wheel. You aren't going to find molecular gastronomy or "deconstructed" chowder here. It’s just solid, reliable seafood. In a neighborhood like the Upper West Side, which has historically been a bit of a dining desert for anything that isn't a bagel or a slice of pizza, that reliability is king.
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The "UWS" Vibe Check
There is a specific energy to this specific location. The East Village location (Mermaid Oyster Bar) is younger and louder. The Chelsea spot is a bit more "after-work drink" heavy. But the Mermaid Inn Upper West Side is where the locals live. You’ll see families with kids who are surprisingly well-behaved, couples on their third date trying to look cool while eating oysters, and groups of older residents who have probably lived in the same rent-controlled apartment since 1974.
It’s a "Goldilocks" restaurant. It’s nice enough for a birthday, but casual enough that you can wear sneakers and not feel like a slob.
Navigating the Noise and the Crowd
If you hate loud restaurants, I have bad news for you. The acoustics in the new Columbus Avenue space are... lively. That’s the polite way to put it. When the room is full, you’re going to be leaning in to hear your dining partner. It’s part of the deal.
The Reservation Strategy:
Don't be a hero. Use OpenTable or whatever platform they’re using this week. If you’re trying to go on a Friday or Saturday, book it a week out. If you’re a party of two, you might get lucky at the bar, but even the bar fills up with people eating full dinner spreads.
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Honestly, the best time to go is a "weird" time. Monday at 8:45 PM. Wednesday at 5:00 PM. That’s when you actually get to talk to the servers, who, by the way, are some of the most efficient in the business. They have to be. The volume they turn over is insane.
Why It Matters for the Neighborhood
The Upper West Side has been changing. We’ve seen a lot of the old-school diners and "mom and pop" spots disappear, replaced by bank branches and chain pharmacies. Seeing a local brand like The Mermaid Inn not just survive but expand into a flagship-level space is a win for the community. It anchors that stretch of Columbus Avenue. It gives people a reason to stay in the neighborhood for dinner instead of heading down to the West Village or over to the East Side.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Skip the Lobster Roll if you're starving: It's delicious, but if you've spent the day hiking through Central Park, get the Linguine Fra Diavolo. It’s a massive portion and hits the "comfort food" button harder.
- Check the Daily Specials: They often have a "Catch of the Day" that isn't on the printed menu. Usually, it’s the freshest thing in the building.
- The Wine List is surprisingly smart: Everyone goes for the cocktails, but their Muscadet and Sancerre selections are specifically curated to cut through the richness of fried seafood. Ask for a recommendation; the staff actually knows their stuff.
- Walk-in Strategy: If the wait is long, put your name down and walk a block over to Central Park or browse the nearby boutiques. They’ll text you when the table is ready, so don't just stand in the foyer clogging up the entrance.
- The Fortune Fish: Don't lose it. If your fish curls up entirely, it means you're "passionate." If it doesn't move, you're "dead." It’s the best way to end a date—either a great laugh or a very awkward silence.
The Mermaid Inn Upper West Side isn't trying to be the best restaurant in the world. It’s trying to be the best restaurant on your block. It’s the place you go when you don't want to think too hard, but you want to ensure the food will be good, the drinks will be cold, and you’ll leave feeling like you actually got your money's worth in a city that usually tries to overcharge you for everything. Check the hours before you go, bring a friend who likes to share appetizers, and definitely save room for that pudding.