Sneaker culture is weird. One day you're chasing a generic "panda" colorway that everyone and their mother owns, and the next, you’re staring at a pair of shoes that costs as much as a used Honda Civic. If you’ve been around the block, you know exactly which one I’m talking about. The Kaws Retro 4 Jordan isn’t just a shoe; it’s a whole mood. It’s that rare moment where fine art didn't just "collab" with streetwear—it swallowed it whole.
Honestly, back in 2017, the hype was terrifying. People weren't just lining up; they were practically vibrating. When the grey pair dropped in March, the raffle at Patta in London got so rowdy the police had to shut it down. They were worried about a literal riot. Think about that for a second. Over a pair of suede 4s.
But seven years later, the dust has settled. Or has it? Even in 2026, the Kaws 4 remains the "final boss" for many collectors. It’s the shoe that proved Brian Donnelly (the man behind Kaws) could turn a basketball sneaker into a museum piece without losing the soul of the silhouette.
The Art of the Suede: What Makes It Different?
Most Jordan 4s are leather or durabuck. This is different. The Kaws Retro 4 Jordan ditched the plastic lace "wings" and the traditional mesh side panels. Instead, it’s just suede. Everywhere. We’re talking a premium, buttery-soft grey (or black) suede that covers the entire upper, the midsole, and even the wings themselves.
If you look closely—and I mean really get in there—the suede is etched with Kaws’ signature "Companion" hand graphics. It’s subtle. From five feet away, it looks like a clean, tonal sneaker. Up close, it’s a dizzying embroidery of cartoonish anatomy.
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That Glow, Though
We have to talk about the outsole. It’s a translucent, milky green that glows in the dark. But it’s not that cheap, neon glow you see on Halloween decorations. It’s a deep, premium luminescence that reveals more of those signature hand drawings under the rubber. It’s the kind of detail that makes you feel like you actually got your money's worth, even when the resale price is hitting four figures.
- The Heel Tab: No Jumpman. No Nike Air. Just "XX" over the word "AIR." Simple. Iconic.
- The Insole: Usually, insoles are an afterthought. Here, they’re custom-printed with the collab branding, though most people swap them out to keep the print from rubbing off after three wears.
- The Box: Even the packaging is a flex. It’s a massive, custom-designed box that actually feels like it belongs on a shelf next to a Companion figure.
Grey vs. Black: The Great Debate
There are two main versions of this shoe, and people have opinions.
The Cool Grey pair (Style Code: 930155-003) was the first to arrive on March 31, 2017. It retailed for $350, which was already "ouch" territory back then. This is the "purist" choice. It shows off the embroidery much better than the black version because of the contrast in the suede textures.
Then came the Black colorway (Style Code: 930155-001) in November 2017. Rumor has it these were originally supposed to be "Friends and Family" only. When they hit retail, they felt sleeker, more "New York." The black suede hides the hand embroidery a bit more, making it a "if you know, you know" kind of shoe.
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Which is better? Honestly, it depends on how much you want to stand out. The grey is loud in its silence. The black is just mean. Both are grails.
The Reality of Buying a Kaws Retro 4 Jordan in 2026
If you're looking to grab a pair today, you need to be smart. This is one of the most faked sneakers in history. Because the materials are so specific—that "shaggy" suede texture is hard to replicate—counterfeiters struggle, but they’ve had seven years to practice.
Watch the "Wings." On a real pair, the triangular wings are wrapped in suede. On cheap fakes, they often look too plastic-y or the stitching is sloppy where it meets the suede.
Check the "XX" on the heel. The thickness of those X’s is a dead giveaway. On replicas, they’re often too thin or spaced weirdly. On the real deal, they’re chunky and deliberate.
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The Price Tag. Look, if someone is offering you "deadstock" Kaws 4s for $600 in 2026, they are lying to you. The market has moved way past that. You’re looking at anywhere from $1,200 for a used pair to $3,500+ for a pristine, never-worn grey pair in a popular size.
Why This Shoe Won't Die
Brian Donnelly’s career has only gone up since 2017. His "Holiday" installations have floated in Hong Kong harbors and even went to the edge of space. When you buy a Kaws Retro 4 Jordan, you aren't just buying Nikes. You're buying a piece of art history that happened to be designed by a guy who used to paint over bus shelter ads in the 90s.
It’s a bridge between worlds. It’s the shoe you wear to a gallery opening where you want to look like you belong, but also want the "heads" in the room to know you’ve got taste.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Owner:
- Audit the Suede: If you're buying used, check for "fuzziness." If the suede looks flat or shiny, it’s either a fake or it’s been through a literal war.
- Verify the Glow: Use a UV light. A real pair charges up instantly and has a specific, consistent hue.
- Check the Accessories: A legit pair must come with the Kaws/Jordan buyer card, the black drawstring dust bag, and the suede hangtag. If these are missing, the value drops significantly.
- Use Professional Authentication: Don't trust your "expert" friend. Use services like CheckCheck or go through platforms with iron-clad guarantees like eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee or GOAT.
Investing in a pair of these is a big move. It’s a lot of money for something that goes on your feet. But in a world of fast fashion and weekly "limited" drops that nobody remembers a month later, the Kaws 4 stands alone. It’s a masterpiece.
To truly secure a pair that holds its value, prioritize the Cool Grey colorway in its original box with all inserts intact. Documentation of the original purchase from 2017 is the ultimate gold standard for long-term collectors.