The Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement is a weird shoe. Honestly, if you look at the history of the brand, it’s one of those releases that probably shouldn't have worked as well as it did, yet it somehow manages to stay relevant years after its 2019 debut. It isn't just another "Black Cement" retro. It’s a remix of a legend, a peek into the sketchbook of Tinker Hatfield, and a controversial spin on what many consider the greatest sneaker of all time.
You've got the classic elephant print. You've got the black leather. But then there’s that Swoosh.
The Sketch That Changed Everything
Back in 1988, Nike was in trouble. Michael Jordan was looking at the door, thinking about leaving for another brand because he wasn't feeling the direction of his signature line. Enter Tinker Hatfield. He didn't just design a shoe; he designed a solution. One of his original sketches for the Air Jordan 3 actually included the Nike Swoosh on the lateral side. Eventually, they stripped it off to let the "Jumpman" logo take center stage, creating the minimalist masterpiece we know today.
The Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement brings that discarded idea back to life. It’s a "what if" scenario made real.
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When it first leaked, people lost their minds. Some purists hated it. They thought putting a Swoosh on a 3 was sacrilege, like drawing a mustache on the Mona Lisa. But for others, it was a piece of history. It was a chance to own the version of the shoe that saved Nike. It feels raw. It feels like a prototype that escaped the lab.
Breaking Down the Details
Let's get into the actual construction because it’s not just a standard 3 with a logo slapped on it. The materials on the Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement are actually quite different from the 2018 "Black Cement" retro. The upper uses a mix of matte black leather and suede. It feels softer, maybe a bit more "premium" in a lifestyle sense, though it lacks that rugged, tumbled leather look of the OG.
The elephant print is there, obviously. But here, it’s tonal. It’s black on black, which makes the whole silhouette look much stealthier.
Then you have the accents. Instead of the classic fire red, you get "Metallic Gold" hits on the top eyelets. It adds this weirdly royal vibe to a shoe that is otherwise very gritty and street-focused. And the heel? It has the "Nike Air" branding. That’s the holy grail for collectors. Even if you hate the Swoosh on the side, you can’t argue with that Nike Air on the back. It’s the stamp of authenticity that makes or breaks a Jordan 3 for most people.
Why It Flopped (Then Didn't)
When these dropped in July 2019 for $200, they didn't exactly fly off shelves like a limited collaboration might. You could actually find them sitting in some stores for a week or two. Resell prices were stagnant. People were still obsessed with the "Cactus Jack" 4s and the looming shadow of the Off-White hype. The Tinker 3 was the "alternative" choice.
But then something shifted.
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As people started wearing them and posting on-foot shots, the perception changed. The "Black Cement" colorway is essentially bulletproof. You can wear it with anything. The Tinker version offered that same versatility but with a "if you know, you know" twist. It wasn't the shoe everyone else was wearing at the mall. It was the shoe for the guy who knew the history of Tinker’s sketches.
The Comfort Factor and Sizing
If you're planning on picking up a pair today on the secondary market, you need to know about the fit. Jordan 3s are generally pretty consistent. They run true to size (TTS). If you have a wide foot, you might feel a bit of a pinch in the pinky toe area because of the way the mudguard wraps around, but generally, your standard size is the way to go.
The cushioning is... well, it’s 1988 technology. You have a visible Air unit in the heel and encapsulated Air in the forefoot. Is it as comfortable as a modern ZoomX or React foam? Not even close. It’s firm. It’s heavy. But it’s stable. It feels like a tank on your feet.
One thing to watch out for on the Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement is the 3M reflective hits. The Swoosh and the tongue have reflective properties that pop under light. It’s a cool touch, but over time, that 3M can crack or peel if you’re not careful. This isn't a shoe you want to beat up too badly if you care about the aesthetics.
Comparing the "Tinker" to the "OG"
It’s impossible to talk about this shoe without comparing it to the standard Black Cement 3.
The OG has that grey tongue and the white midsole contrast. It’s iconic. It’s the shoe Michael wore in the 1988 Dunk Contest. The Tinker version is much darker. It’s almost a "Triple Black" vibe but with just enough grey and gold to keep it interesting. The Swoosh changes the entire geometry of the shoe. It makes it look faster, less chunky.
Some collectors argue that the Tinker series—which also includes the "Fire Red" and "Air Max 1" inspired colorways—is just a cash grab by Jordan Brand. They say it's "manufacturing" history. Maybe. But the reality is that Tinker Hatfield is the reason Jordan Brand exists as a powerhouse. Honoring his original intent doesn't feel like a reach; it feels like a tribute.
The Long-Term Value
Right now, the market for the Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement has stabilized. It's not a $1,000 shoe, and it probably never will be. But it has maintained a respectable value above retail. It’s a "solid" pick. It’s the kind of shoe that looks better the more you look at it.
If you’re a purist, you’ve probably already made up your mind. You want the 1988 specs and nothing else. But if you appreciate the design process—the mistakes, the edits, the "deleted scenes"—then this shoe is a must-have. It represents a moment in time when Nike was willing to take a massive risk.
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Actionable Steps for Buyers and Collectors
If you're looking to add this specific pair to your rotation, keep these points in mind:
- Check the 3M: Before buying from a resale site like GOAT or StockX, look closely at photos of the Swoosh. Any slight cracking in the reflective material is a sign of poor storage or heavy wear.
- Verify the Box: The Tinker 3s came in a special box that differs from the standard Jordan 3 elephant print box. It usually features the sketch graphics on the inside or special paper. If the box looks generic, be suspicious.
- The "Nike Air" Alignment: On the heel tab, the "Nike Air" logo should be centered perfectly. On some early B-grade pairs or high-quality fakes, the logo can be slightly tilted or placed too high.
- Maintenance: Since the upper uses more suede/nubuck-style materials than the standard 1988 retro, you need a dedicated suede brush. Don't use heavy soaps or you'll ruin the matte finish. A dry brush and a light suede protector spray are your best friends here.
- Style it Right: Because the shoe is so dark, it works best with tapered joggers or slim-fit denim that sits right at the top of the tongue. Don't hide the Swoosh under baggy pants—that's the whole point of the shoe.
The Jordan 3 Tinker Black Cement isn't for everyone, and that's exactly why it’s good. It’s a conversation starter. It’s a history lesson. Most importantly, it’s a reminder that even the most "perfect" designs started with a rough sketch and a few ideas that were almost left on the cutting room floor.