Sneaker culture is weird, isn't it? We obsess over pieces of leather and rubber like they're holy relics. But if any shoe deserves that kind of religious devotion, it’s the jordan 12 red and black. Most people call them the "Flu Games." Some just call them the GOAT. Whatever your nickname of choice, you can't talk about basketball history or high-end streetwear without tripping over this specific colorway. It’s heavy. It’s durable. It looks like something a superhero would wear to a funeral.
Honestly, the 12s were a massive pivot for Tinker Hatfield. After the shiny, patent leather explosion of the 11s, the world expected more "space-age" vibes. Instead, Tinker looked at the Japanese Rising Sun flag and 19th-century women's fashion boots. Yeah, you read that right. The stitching on the side panels mimics sun rays, and that high-cut, asymmetrical mudguard? That’s pure high-fashion influence. When you hold a pair of Jordan 12 red and black in your hands, you feel the weight. These aren't flimsy runners. They’re tanks.
The Myth of the Flu Game
We have to address the elephant in the room. June 11, 1997. Game 5 of the NBA Finals. Chicago vs. Utah. Michael Jordan is basically dying on the court. He’s shaky, he’s dehydrated, and he looks like he might pass out during every timeout. He dropped 38 points anyway.
For years, the story was simple: MJ had the flu. He fought through it. Pure guts. But then, years later, his personal trainer Tim Grover dropped a bomb. It wasn't the flu. It was food poisoning from a late-night pizza in Park City, Utah. Grover swears five guys showed up to deliver one pizza, and it felt sketchy from the jump. Michael ate it anyway because, well, he was hungry. Whether it was a virus or a bad pepperoni slice, the jordan 12 red and black was on his feet the entire time. That black leather and the bold Varsity Red mudguard became the visual shorthand for "winning at all costs."
If you're looking for a pair today, you’re chasing a ghost of that 1997 moment. Nike has retroed this colorway several times—2003, 2009, and 2016. Each version has its own quirks. The 2009 version was polarizing because they swapped the leather for nubuck and added a little sick-face emoji on the heel. Purists hated it. They wanted the leather. They wanted the grit. By 2016, Jordan Brand listened and brought back the tumbled leather that looks better the more you beat it up.
Technical Specs That Actually Matter
Let's get nerdy for a second. The 12 was the first Air Jordan to feature Zoom Air. Not just a little heel unit, but full-length Zoom. It’s bouncy. Even by 2026 standards, the impact protection holds up surprisingly well. If you’re actually planning on playing hoops in these, just know they’re heavy. Your legs will feel it by the fourth quarter.
🔗 Read more: At Home French Manicure: Why Yours Looks Cheap and How to Fix It
The traction is interesting, too. You’ve got a carbon fiber shank plate—which was a huge deal back then for torsional rigidity—and a herringbone pattern on the outsole. It grips. It squeaks. It does exactly what it’s supposed to do. But most people aren't buying the jordan 12 red and black to run suicides in a gym. They’re buying them because the silhouette is aggressive. The metal lace loops at the top give it this industrial, premium feel that makes a pair of 1s look like toys.
A Breakdown of Recent Iterations
The 2016 "Flu Game" retro is generally considered the gold standard for modern collectors. The leather quality was surprisingly high for a mass-market Jordan release. It had that distinct "tumbled" texture that feels soft but holds its shape. Then you have the "Reverse Flu Game" that dropped in late 2020. It flipped the script—red suede upper with a black mudguard. It was a hit, but it didn't have the soul of the original.
Then there’s the "Playoff" 12, which is technically black and white, but it shares that same DNA. People often confuse the two if they’re just starting their collection. The "Flu Game" is the one with the soul, the one with the red bottom that looks like it's dripping in intensity.
Why Some People Hate This Shoe
Okay, let's be real. Not everyone loves the 12s. If you have wide feet, these can be a nightmare. That rigid mudguard doesn't "break in" as much as it just tolerates your foot's existence. The toe box is notoriously stiff. I’ve seen guys go up half a size just to avoid the pinky-toe pinch.
And then there's the heat. These shoes have almost zero ventilation. You’re wearing a leather boot, basically. On a hot July day, your feet are going to sweat. It’s just a fact. But that’s the trade-off for having the most durable shoe in the Jordan lineup. You could probably hike a mountain in these and the upper wouldn't tear.
💡 You might also like: Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen Menu: Why You’re Probably Ordering Wrong
Styling the Jordan 12 Red and Black
This isn't a "slim-fit" shoe. If you try to wear these with super skinny jeans, you’re going to look like Mickey Mouse. The silhouette is chunky. It needs some balance.
- Cargo pants: The move. The extra pockets and wider leg opening sit perfectly over the high-top collar.
- Track pants: Keep it classic. A slim-tapered jogger works if the fabric is heavy enough.
- Shorts: This is tricky. If you have skinny calves, the 12s can look like weights around your ankles. Wear high socks to bridge the gap.
The Resale Market and Authenticity
If you’re hunting for a pair of jordan 12 red and black right now, you’re looking at the secondary market. Prices fluctuate wildly based on condition. A deadstock pair from 2016 will probably run you anywhere from $400 to $600 depending on size.
Watch out for the fakes. Because the 12 has such a specific texture on the mudguard—that pebbled, lizard-skin print—reps often get it wrong. It’s either too shiny or too dull. Also, check the "TWO 3" embroidery on the tongue. On authentic pairs, the stitching is tight and the spacing is consistent. If the "2" looks like a "Z," walk away.
Another weird tip? Smell them. Serious collectors know that "new shoe" smell from Nike factories. It’s chemically but clean. Many high-end fakes use a different glue that smells like a tire fire. Trust your nose.
Maintenance Is Not Optional
Leather needs love. Since the jordan 12 red and black uses a lot of red dyed leather on the mudguard, you have to be careful with cleaners. Some harsh chemicals can cause the red to bleed into the black leather. Stick to a dedicated sneaker cleaner and a soft-bristled brush.
📖 Related: 100 Biggest Cities in the US: Why the Map You Know is Wrong
Don't let the white outsoles on the bottom stay dirty for too long. Even though most of the outsole is red and black, there are white pods that can yellow over time due to oxidation. If you’re storing them for a long time, throw some silica packets in the box. Moisture is the enemy of the 12.
The Cultural Weight of the XII
It’s more than just a shoe Michael wore. It was the first shoe under the newly formed "Jordan Brand" sub-label. It didn't even have a Nike Swoosh on the outside. That was a massive gamble in 1996. It signaled that Michael was bigger than the company that signed him.
When you wear the jordan 12 red and black, you’re wearing that independence. You’re wearing the transition from "basketball player" to "global icon." It’s a sophisticated shoe. It’s got that pull-tab on the back that says "Quality Inspired by the Greatest Player Ever." It’s not humble. But then again, neither was Jordan.
How to Buy Smart in 2026
- Check the Carbon Fiber: Tap the shank plate on the bottom with your fingernail. It should feel like hard, resonant plastic/fiber. If it feels like soft, dull rubber, it’s a fake.
- Verify the Jumpman: The logo on the sole should be crisp. On many counterfeits, the "fingers" on the Jumpman’s hand look like a blob.
- The Box Matters: Original 2016 boxes have a specific label font. Check the "Suggested Retail" perforated tab. If it’s missing or the font is off, be skeptical.
What to Do Next
If you’re ready to pull the trigger on a pair, start by checking verified platforms like GOAT or StockX, but don't sleep on local sneaker groups. Sometimes you can find a "VNDS" (Very Near Dead Stock) pair for a fraction of the "New" price.
Before you buy:
- Measure your foot: If you’re between sizes, go up. The 12 is unforgiving.
- Set a budget: Don't get caught in a bidding war. These shoes retro every few years; if the price is too high, just wait for the next drop.
- Inspect the leather: Ask for high-res photos of the heel stitching. It’s the hardest part for factories to get perfectly symmetrical.
The jordan 12 red and black isn't just a purchase. It’s an investment in a piece of sports lore. Whether you’re rocking them with a vintage Bulls jersey or just some clean black denim, you’re carrying the history of that Utah pizza and the 38 points that changed everything. Just don't expect them to be the most breathable shoes in your closet. Quality has a price, and usually, that price is a little bit of foot sweat.