If you drive deep into the Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge near Lawton, the scenery starts to shift. You expect the bison. You expect the granite boulders and the wind-swept prairies. What you don't necessarily expect is a sudden, sprawling limestone replica of ancient Israel sitting in the middle of a prairie dog town.
This is the Holy City of the Wichita Mountains. It’s weird. It’s beautiful. Honestly, it’s a bit eerie if you catch it at dusk when the long shadows hit the sandstone towers.
Most people just stumble upon it while looking for Mount Scott or the Parallel Forest. They see the arched gateways and the Chapel of the Holy City and wonder if they accidentally drove onto a movie set from 1920s Hollywood. In a way, they did. This 66-acre site isn't just a church or a monument; it’s a permanent stage for the "The Prince of Peace" Easter Passion Play, which is the longest-running pageant of its kind in the United States.
The history here is dense. It’s not just a religious site; it's a massive artifact of the Great Depression.
The Weird History of a Mountain Miracle
It started in 1926. A guy named Reverend Anthony Mark Wallock took a small group of people up into the hills for an Easter sunrise service. It was simple. It was small. But people kept showing up. By the early 1930s, thousands of Oklahomans were trekking into the rugged terrain of the Wichita Mountains to see this outdoor drama.
Then came the WPA.
During the New Deal, the Works Progress Administration was looking for projects to put people to work. They didn't just build roads and bridges in Oklahoma; they built a literal city. Using local granite and limestone, workers constructed a set that looks like Jerusalem. We’re talking about a pilot’s house, Herod’s Court, and the Garden of Gethsemane. It was a massive undertaking. The craftsmanship is actually incredible when you look at the masonry up close. These weren't professional set designers. These were local men trying to survive the Dust Bowl by hauling rocks in the heat.
Construction really peaked between 1934 and 1936. If you walk through the grounds today, you can see the sheer scale of the vision. It’s built to accommodate an audience of thousands, all looking down into a natural amphitheater where the biblical story plays out every year.
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Why People Keep Coming Back to the Wichita Mountains
The Holy City of the Wichita Mountains feels different depending on when you visit. Go on a Tuesday in November, and you’ll have the place to yourself. It feels like an abandoned ruins site. You can wander through the World Chapel, which is arguably the most famous building on the property. It’s small, intimate, and contains some pretty stunning murals painted by Irene Malcolm.
But if you show up during the Easter season, the energy is totally different.
The Passion Play is a massive production. We’re talking hundreds of cast members, live animals, and a script that hasn't changed much in decades. It’s a piece of living history. You’ve got local families who have been playing the same roles for three generations. The guy playing a Roman soldier might be the grandson of the guy who played the same soldier in 1960. That kind of continuity is rare in America.
The Museum and the Oddities
There’s a museum on site, too. It’s not a Smithsonian-level experience, but it’s fascinating in its own right. You’ll find:
- Elaborate costumes from past decades.
- Historical photographs of the WPA workers building the city.
- A collection of dolls from around the world (which feels a little random, but that’s the charm of rural Oklahoma roadside stops).
- Tributes to Anthony Mark Wallock, the visionary behind the whole thing.
The gift shop is exactly what you’d expect—lots of postcards, small crosses, and books about the history of the refuge. It’s charmingly stuck in time.
Navigating the Layout
The site is spread out. You aren't just looking at one building.
The "Jerusalem" set is the heart of it. It’s an expansive outdoor stage with various "stations" representing different biblical locations. The Calvary Hill is tucked away toward the back. The way the limestone blends into the natural granite of the Wichita Mountains is actually a feat of organic architecture. The builders used the natural elevation of the hills to create sightlines.
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Then there is the Chapel of the Holy City. This is where most weddings happen. It looks like it belongs in the Italian countryside. The stone walls are thick, keeping the interior cool even when the Oklahoma summer is hitting 100 degrees outside.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Site
Some visitors think the Holy City of the Wichita Mountains is a functioning town. It’s not. Nobody lives here. It’s a dedicated cultural and religious site.
Another misconception is that it’s strictly for the deeply religious. While the content is obviously biblical, a huge portion of visitors come for the history and the architecture. If you’re a fan of WPA-era stonework, this is your Mecca. The way the arches are keyed and the way the walls follow the contours of the Oklahoma earth is a masterclass in 1930s labor.
Also, people often assume it’s a tourist trap with high entry fees. Honestly? It’s mostly free. They survive on donations and the revenue from the gift shop. You can park your car and walk the grounds without spending a dime, which makes it one of the best budget-friendly stops in the state.
The Wildlife Factor
You have to remember you are in a federal wildlife refuge.
It is very common to see buffalo (bison) grazing right outside the stone walls of Jerusalem. I’ve seen elk wandering near the Calvary scene. Longhorn cattle—descendants of the original herds—are everywhere.
This creates a surreal juxtaposition. You’re looking at a recreation of the Middle East, but a 2,000-pound American bison is standing in the foreground. It’s the kind of thing that only happens in Southwest Oklahoma. Keep your distance, though. People forget these are wild animals. A bison doesn't care if you're trying to take a photo of the chapel; it will charge if you get too close.
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How to Make the Trip Worth It
If you’re planning a visit, don't just do the Holy City and leave. The Wichita Mountains are too good for a 20-minute pit stop.
- Hit Mount Scott first. Drive to the top for the 360-degree view of the mountains and Lake Lawtonka. It gives you a sense of the "bowl" that the Holy City sits in.
- The Parallel Forest. It’s just a few miles away. It’s a grid of over 20,000 red cedars planted exactly 6 feet apart. It feels like something out of a horror movie, and it’s a great contrast to the open stonework of the Holy City.
- Eat at Meers. You have to go to the Meers Store and Restaurant. It’s a world-famous burger joint located in an old mining town. They use longhorn beef from the refuge. It’s gritty, it’s loud, and the cobbler is incredible.
- Medicine Park. This is the "cobblestone resort town" right at the entrance of the refuge. It looks like a European village but with a very "Wild West" Oklahoma vibe.
The Future of the Holy City
Maintaining 66 acres of stone buildings in the harsh Oklahoma climate isn't easy. The Holy City of the Wichitas is managed by a non-profit board. They rely heavily on volunteers. Over the years, some of the structures have required significant restoration. The weather out here is brutal—high winds, ice storms, and scorching sun.
But the site persists. It survives because it’s a part of the local identity. For the people of Lawton, Altus, and Duncan, "the pageant" is a rite of passage.
Is it kitschy? A little bit. Is it impressive? Absolutely.
There is something deeply human about the desire to build a city out of rock in the middle of a wilderness just to tell a story. Whether you’re there for the faith, the history, or the weirdness of seeing a limestone Jerusalem in the land of the Comanches, it sticks with you.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
- Timing: Visit in the late afternoon. The "golden hour" light on the limestone makes for the best photos, and the temperature is much more manageable.
- Footwear: Wear real shoes. This isn't a paved theme park. You’ll be walking on uneven ground, gravel, and stone steps.
- Water: There aren't many places to buy a drink once you’re deep in the refuge. Bring a gallon of water in your trunk.
- Connectivity: Cell service is spotty at best. Download your maps (Google Maps offline mode) before you enter the refuge gates.
- Respect the Silence: Even if you aren't there for a service, many people treat the chapel as a place of prayer. Keep the volume down when you’re inside the stone buildings.
If you’re coming from Oklahoma City, it’s about a 90-minute drive. From Dallas, you’re looking at about 3 hours. Take the H.E. Bailey Turnpike, exit at Medicine Park, and just follow the signs into the mountains. You’ll know you’re there when the trees thin out and the stone towers begin to rise from the grass.
The Holy City of the Wichita Mountains stands as a testament to what people can build when they have a lot of faith and even more time on their hands. It’s an Oklahoma icon that refuses to fade away.
To make the most of your trip, check the official Holy City website for the specific dates of the Easter pageant, as they can shift slightly depending on the calendar year. If you plan to attend the play, bring a lawn chair and a heavy blanket; even in spring, the mountain air gets biting once the sun goes down. For those looking for a quieter experience, midweek visits during the autumn months offer the best balance of cool weather and thin crowds, allowing you to explore the stone corridors in near-total solitude.