Why the high fade textured fringe is taking over your local barbershop

Why the high fade textured fringe is taking over your local barbershop

Walk into any decent barbershop in London, New York, or Sydney right now and you’ll hear the same metallic hum of clippers working high up the temples. It’s almost a default setting at this point. The high fade textured fringe has effectively replaced the slick-back underrcut of the 2010s as the "it" haircut for guys who want to look like they actually put effort into their appearance without looking like they’re trying too hard. It’s a bit messy. It’s a bit aggressive. Honestly, it’s exactly what happens when you mix the precision of a military fade with the chaotic energy of a 90s skater cut.

Most people get it wrong, though. They ask for a "fringe" and end up with a bowl cut because they didn't specify the texture. Or they get a fade that’s too low, losing that sharp contrast that makes the style pop.

The anatomy of a high fade textured fringe

To really understand why this works, you have to look at the geometry. You’ve got two opposing forces here. On the bottom, you have skin or a very short guard—usually a 0 or a 1—carried high up past the temple. This creates a massive amount of "white space" on the sides of the head. Then, you have the weight on top. Unlike a pompadour which goes back, or a crew cut which stays short, the fringe hangs forward.

But it shouldn't just lay flat. That’s the "textured" part of the high fade textured fringe. Barbers use point cutting or thinning shears to remove bulk. This creates "peaks and valleys" in the hair. When you apply a matte clay or a sea salt spray, the hair clumps together in these intentional, jagged sections. It looks lived-in. It looks like you just woke up, but in a way that cost you $60.

Why the "High" part matters

If you go with a low or mid fade, the silhouette becomes more rounded. That's fine for some, but the high fade is what gives this look its "edge." By taking the fade up to the parietal ridge—that spot where your head starts to curve inward toward the top—you square off the face. For guys with rounder faces, this is a godsend. It adds height. It creates corners. It basically acts as instant weight loss for your cheeks.

The TikTok influence and the "Crop" evolution

We can't talk about this haircut without mentioning the "French Crop." For a few years, the French Crop was the king of the barbershop. It was short, blunt, and very disciplined. Think Cillian Murphy in Peaky Blinders, but updated. The high fade textured fringe is basically the French Crop’s rebellious younger brother. It’s longer. It’s messier. It’s less about that straight line across the forehead and more about an uneven, "chopped" look.

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Social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram have turned this into a global phenomenon. You see creators like Josh Lamonaca—who is essentially a rockstar in the hair education world—demonstrating how to "shatter" the ends of the hair to get that perfect fringe. It’s a technical feat disguised as a messy accident.

Maintenance is a bit of a nightmare

Let's be real for a second. This isn't a low-maintenance haircut.

If you want your high fade textured fringe to actually look like the photos you saved on Pinterest, you’re going to be at the barber every two to three weeks. Fades blur fast. Once that crisp line above your ears starts to sprout "fuzz," the whole look loses its impact. The contrast dies.

Then there’s the morning routine. You can't just roll out of bed. Because the hair is pushed forward, you’ll likely have "bed head" that defies gravity in the wrong direction. You’ll need:

  1. A blow dryer (yes, really).
  2. Sea salt spray for volume.
  3. A matte product (clay or paste) to define the fringe.

If you use a shiny pomade, you’ve failed. The whole point of the textured fringe is to look dry and natural. Shine makes it look like a Lego hairpiece. You want people to wonder if there’s even product in there at all.

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Dealing with different hair types

Not every head of hair is built for this. If you have extremely fine, thinning hair, a heavy fringe can actually work against you by making the scalp more visible under the weight of the clumps. However, for guys with thick, coarse hair, the high fade textured fringe is a literal relief. It removes so much weight from the sides that your head feels five pounds lighter.

Curly-haired guys are also leaning into this. A "curly high fade fringe" is arguably the best way to manage tight curls. You keep the sides tight so you don't get that "bozo the clown" puffiness on the sides, but you let the curls tumble over the forehead. It’s a top-tier look.

What to tell your barber (The "Don't Screw This Up" Guide)

Communication is where most people lose the battle. Don't just say "textured fringe." Be specific.

  • The Fade: Ask for a high skin fade. Specify if you want it "dropped" in the back (following the natural curve of your skull) or kept straight for a more aggressive, flat-top vibe.
  • The Top: Tell them you want "lots of texture." Ask them to point-cut the ends so it’s not a straight line.
  • The Length: The fringe should usually sit about half an inch to an inch above your eyebrows. Any longer and you’re constantly blowing hair out of your eyes; any shorter and you’re into "Caesar cut" territory.

Honestly, show a photo. Barbers are visual people. But make sure the guy in the photo has a similar hair density and forehead shape to yours. If you have a receding hairline and you show a photo of a guy with a thick, bushy fringe, your barber is going to have to give you some bad news.

The product breakdown

Most guys grab whatever is at the grocery store. Big mistake. For a high fade textured fringe, you need grit. Look for ingredients like Kaolin clay or Bentonite. These minerals absorb oil and give the hair a stiff, matte finish. Brands like Hanz de Fuko, Kevin Murphy, or even smaller artisanal labs like Shear Revival are the gold standard here.

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Apply the product to damp hair if you want more control, or bone-dry hair if you want maximum "mess." Start at the back of the head and work forward. If you start at the fringe, you’ll dump too much product on your forehead and it’ll look greasy by noon.

Is it a "trend" or a classic?

People asked this about the side part in 2012. Now, the side part is "the dad haircut." The high fade textured fringe feels like it has more staying power because it’s adaptable. It’s the modern version of the "shag," just cleaned up for the 2020s. It fits the current shift toward more relaxed, oversized clothing. If you're wearing a boxy hoodie and baggy trousers, a tight, 1950s slick-back looks weird. But a messy fringe? It fits the silhouette perfectly.

Actionable Next Steps

If you're ready to make the jump, start by letting your hair grow. You need at least 3 to 4 inches of length on top to get a decent fringe. If you cut the sides high now while the top is still short, you’ll just have a high and tight, which is a very different vibe.

Once you have the length, book a "long-format" appointment. This isn't a 15-minute "in and out" buzz. The texturizing work takes time. Ask your barber to show you how to use a blow dryer to direct the hair forward without flattening it. Most guys skip the blow dryer, but it’s the secret weapon for making the fringe stay "up and out" rather than just hanging sadly over your eyes.

Finally, invest in a sea salt spray. It’s the easiest way to get that "beach" texture even if you live in a landlocked city. Spray it in while the hair is wet, scrunch it with your hands, and let it air dry or use a diffuser. That’s how you get the movement that makes the high fade textured fringe look high-end rather than homemade.