You’ve probably walked past it a thousand times if you spend any time Downtown. It’s that massive, "E" shaped terracotta giant sitting right at 535 Smithfield Street, staring across at Mellon Square. Honestly, the Henry Oliver Building is one of those places that feels like it’s always been there, because, well, it basically has. Since 1910, it’s stood as a massive hunk of steel and stone that tells the story of how Pittsburgh became, well, Pittsburgh.
Most people today know it because of the Embassy Suites or maybe they’ve had a meeting in one of the law offices inside. But there is a lot more to this place than just hotel rooms and elevator banks.
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The Man Behind the Stone
Henry W. Oliver was a big deal. Kinda an understatement, actually. He was a steel and coal magnate who wanted to leave a permanent mark on the skyline before he passed away. He actually died in 1904, six years before the building was finished, but his estate made sure his dream happened exactly how he wanted.
He didn't want just any office building. He wanted a command center.
Oliver hired Daniel Burnham, the same guy who did Union Station in D.C. and the Flatiron Building in New York. If you look at the façade, you can see that classic Burnham style—a three-story granite base that feels heavy and permanent, with 22 floors of terracotta rising above it. It cost about $3.5 million back then. To put that in perspective, that's well over $120 million in 2026 money.
Why the Henry Oliver Building Layout Is Weird
If you look at the building from above—or just look at a map—you’ll notice it’s shaped like a giant capital letter "E."
There’s a practical reason for that. Back in 1910, they didn't have the kind of LED lighting or high-end HVAC systems we take for granted today. By building it with three interconnected wings, Burnham ensured that almost every single office had a window. Natural light and fresh air weren't luxuries; they were the only way to keep workers from going crazy in the summer.
It’s a design choice that makes the Henry Oliver Building feel surprisingly airy even now. You don’t get those deep, dark "cave" offices you find in modern, blocky skyscrapers.
The Embassy Suites Transformation
For decades, the building was just a straight-up office tower. The international law firm K&L Gates was the big-name tenant for a long time, but they moved out around 2007 to go to the K&L Gates Center (formerly One Oliver Plaza).
That left a huge hole.
Eventually, McKnight Realty Partners stepped in and did something pretty cool. They converted the top eleven floors—basically floors 15 through 25—into a 228-room Embassy Suites. If you go there today, you take an express elevator straight to the "Sky Lobby" on the 25th floor.
The views are insane.
You’re looking down at Mellon Square and out toward the rivers from 348 feet up. They kept a lot of the industrial vibes, too. The décor pays homage to the steel era, which feels right. It’s not one of those "could be anywhere" hotels. It feels like Pittsburgh.
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A Landmark for a Reason
The city officially designated the Henry Oliver Building a historical landmark in 1974. Why? Because it represents the transition from the old-school masonry buildings to the steel-frame giants that would eventually dominate the world.
The lobby is a must-see. It has a T-shape with polished marble floors and walls that seem to glow when the light hits them. The bronze window grills and elevator fittings are original—or at least look it—and they give off this "Old World" wealth vibe that you just don't see in new builds.
Current Tenants and Vibe
It’s not just a hotel. As of early 2026, the building is still a bustling hub.
- Law Firms: Several firms like Meyer, Unkovic & Scott still call the lower floors home.
- Retail: There’s a bank and a few shops on the ground floor.
- The Pool: Yes, there’s a swimming pool inside the hotel portion, which is a rarity for a 116-year-old skyscraper.
It’s one of the few places in the city where you can see a lawyer in a $2,000 suit, a tourist in a Pirates jersey, and a local getting a coffee all in the same 30-second span.
What You Should Actually Do There
If you’re a local or just visiting, don't just walk past it.
- Check out the lobby. You don't need a room key to walk through the main entrance and appreciate the marble. It’s free.
- Go to the 25th floor. Even if you aren't staying at the Embassy Suites, you can usually grab a drink or a bite at the bar up there. The view of the city’s "Golden Triangle" is one of the best you can get without being in a helicopter.
- Look at the Terracotta. Next time you’re on Smithfield, look up at the details on the upper floors. The craftsmanship is staggering. They don’t make buildings like this anymore because it’s simply too expensive.
The Henry Oliver Building isn't a museum piece; it’s a living part of the city. It has survived the decline of the steel industry, the rise of the suburbs, and the total reimagining of Downtown Pittsburgh. It’s still here because it was built to last, and honestly, the city would look a lot emptier without it.
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If you're interested in more Pittsburgh history, your next stop should be across the street at Mellon Square. It was the first park in the world built over a parking garage, and it offers the best angle for photographing the Oliver Building's "E" structure against the sky. Take a walk through the square, look back at the terracotta, and you'll see exactly what Henry Oliver wanted us to see over a century ago.