Walking into the GUM department store Red Square Moscow Russia for the first time is honestly a bit disorienting. You expect a mall. What you get is a glass-roofed cathedral dedicated to consumerism, history, and really expensive ice cream. It's huge.
Most people just see the illuminated facade in photos and think it's a tourist trap. They aren't entirely wrong, but they're missing the point. This building has survived the Tsars, the Bolsheviks, the Cold War, and the chaotic 90s. It’s a survivor.
The Glass Roof That Shouldn't Be There
The first thing you notice when you step inside isn't the stores. It's the light. Back in the late 19th century, Alexander Pomerantsev and engineer Vladimir Shukhov decided to build something that looked like a European shopping gallery but felt distinctly Russian.
Shukhov was a genius. He designed these massive, vaulted glass ceilings that look delicate but weigh hundreds of tons. They use over 50,000 glass panes. When the sun hits the interior at a certain angle in the late afternoon, the whole place glows. It’s beautiful.
During the Soviet era, this place was basically the only spot in the USSR where you could find anything decent. But even then, the architecture was the star. It wasn't always a store, though. Stalin actually closed it down for a while and turned it into office space. He even supposedly considered tearing it down. Imagine that. Red Square without that iconic long building on the eastern edge. It would look empty.
Shopping at GUM Department Store Red Square Moscow Russia: Luxury vs. Nostalgia
If you're looking for a bargain, you're in the wrong place. Let's be real. The ground floor is a parade of brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. It’s high-end.
But GUM is weirdly democratic in its own way. You’ll see a billionaire buying a watch next to a student buying a waffle cone. That ice cream, by the way, is legendary. It’s called "GUM Ice Cream," and they still use the Soviet-era recipes. It’s cheap, it’s cold, and honestly, it’s the best thing you can buy for a couple of bucks in the center of Moscow.
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Gastronom No. 1
You have to visit the grocery store on the first floor. It’s called Gastronom No. 1. It’s designed to look like a high-end Soviet deli from the 1950s. Pyramids of canned peas, marble counters, and staff in retro uniforms. It feels like a movie set.
They sell everything from expensive caviar to classic Russian chocolates. It’s a great place to grab souvenirs that aren't just plastic nesting dolls. Pro tip: look for the birch sap juice. It sounds weird, but it’s a classic.
The Secret History of Section 100
During the Soviet years, GUM had a secret. It was called Section 100. You couldn't just walk in. It was a hidden department reserved only for the highest-ranking Communist Party officials and their families.
While the average citizen was standing in lines for bread, the elite were in Section 100 picking out Western suits and French perfumes. It was the ultimate symbol of the "some are more equal than others" reality of the USSR. Today, that exclusivity is gone—replaced by the "exclusivity" of anyone who has a high enough credit limit.
The Historic Toilet
I know, it sounds crazy to talk about a bathroom in a travel article. But GUM has a "Historic Toilet." It costs a few hundred rubles to get in, which is pricey for a restroom. However, it’s reconstructed to look exactly like the opulent facilities from the Tsarist era. Gold fixtures, marble, heavy towels. It’s more of a museum than a bathroom.
How to Actually Navigate the Three Lines
The building is organized into three long "lines" or corridors. They are connected by bridges. If you don't pay attention, you'll walk in circles for an hour.
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- Line 1: Usually where the most expensive flagship stores live.
- Line 2: A mix of mid-to-high range fashion and cafes.
- Line 3: This is where you find more accessible stuff and the famous Stolovaya No. 57.
Stolovaya No. 57 is a must. It’s a "stolovaya" (canteen) style restaurant. You grab a tray and slide it along a rail, picking out beet salad, borscht, and kompot. It’s fast, it’s relatively cheap for the location, and the food is surprisingly good. It gets packed at lunch, so go early or late.
Why Red Square Needs GUM
Red Square can feel intimidating. It’s a massive, open space surrounded by the Kremlin walls, the State Historical Museum, and the colorful swirls of Saint Basil’s Cathedral. It’s heavy with history.
GUM softens it. It adds a human element to the square. At night, the building is covered in thousands of lightbulbs that trace its architectural lines. It looks like a giant gingerbread house. During the winter, there’s a massive skating rink right outside the front doors.
The Changing Face of Retail
Is GUM still relevant in the age of online shopping? Surprisingly, yes. It’s not just a store; it’s an event. People come here to see the seasonal decorations. In the spring, the interior is filled with blooming cherry blossoms (artificial, but still pretty). In the winter, it’s a forest of Christmas trees.
Actionable Tips for Your Visit
Don't just wander aimlessly. If you want to get the most out of your time at the GUM department store Red Square Moscow Russia, follow these steps.
First, enter from the Red Square side, not the back streets. The transition from the cobblestones of the square to the marble of the store is part of the experience.
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Second, head straight to the third floor for the views. The bridges between the lines offer the best photo ops of the glass roof. You can see the scale of the place from up there.
Third, eat at Stolovaya No. 57 but get your dessert at one of the small ice cream stands on the ground floor. The pistachio and creme brulee flavors are the local favorites.
Fourth, check out the cinema. GUM has its own movie theater, and it’s one of the most beautiful in the city. They often show films in their original language with subtitles, though you'll want to check the schedule.
Finally, don't feel pressured to buy anything. Most locals use GUM as a place to walk, talk, and stay warm in the winter. It’s a public space as much as a private one.
Logistics to keep in mind:
GUM is generally open from 10:00 AM to 10:00 PM. It gets incredibly crowded on weekends and during national holidays. If you want a quiet experience, Tuesday morning is your best bet.
The closest Metro stations are Okhotny Ryad, Teatralnaya, and Ploshchad Revolyutsii. They are all within a five-minute walk. When you exit the Metro, just look for the red walls of the Kremlin—GUM is directly opposite.
If you are visiting in winter, take advantage of the coat check. Trudging through a luxury mall in a heavy parka is miserable. Most high-end stores and the main wardrobe areas will take your coat for free or a very small fee. It makes the whole experience much more civilized.
The GUM department store Red Square Moscow Russia isn't just a place to spend money. It’s a place to see how Russia views itself—a blend of Imperial grandeur, Soviet nostalgia, and modern global luxury. Even if you don't spend a single ruble, walking through those corridors tells you more about the Moscow "vibe" than almost any other building in the city.