You’re standing on Grand Street in Williamsburg, probably dodging a delivery bike or someone in very expensive loafers, looking for a door that doesn't really want to be found. There’s no neon sign. No flashing "Natural Wine Here" banner. Just a cedar-clad facade that looks more like a high-end sauna or a Japanese listening bar than a Michelin-starred restaurant. This is The Four Horsemen Brooklyn. It opened in 2015, which in New York City years is basically a century, yet it remains the gravitational center of the natural wine universe.
People come for the pedigree. James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem is the face most people associate with it, but the soul of the place is a collaborative effort between Murphy, Christina Topsoe, Randy Moon, and Justin Chearno. It’s a labor of love that survived the "natural wine is just fermented juice that tastes like farm animals" era and came out the other side as a legitimate culinary powerhouse.
The Sound of the Room Matters More Than You Think
Most restaurants treat acoustics as an afterthought. They throw some foam under the tables and call it a day. Not here. Since Murphy is a world-renowned audiophile, the room is literally tuned. It’s wrapped in light wood with burlap-covered panels that soak up the screechy high frequencies of a busy Saturday night. You can actually hear your date talk. You can hear the hum of the record player.
The aesthetic is "Scandi-Japanese minimalism meets Brooklyn grit." It’s cozy. It’s tight. If you’re a person who needs six feet of personal space, you’re going to have a hard time. But that’s the point. The Four Horsemen Brooklyn thrives on that kinetic energy—the sound of corks popping, the clink of Zalto-adjacent glassware, and the low-frequency thrum of a deep-cut disco track.
Honestly, the "vibe" is often what gets people in the door, but it's the sheer technical brilliance of the wine program that keeps the seats filled.
Drinking the "Funky" Stuff Without the Regret
Let’s talk about the wine list. It’s a tome. If you’re used to a wine list that just says "Chardonnay" or "Pinot Noir," you might feel a bit underwater here. They focus on producers who practice low-intervention winemaking. This means no synthetic pesticides, no weird additives, and very little (if any) added sulfur.
💡 You might also like: The Recipe Marble Pound Cake Secrets Professional Bakers Don't Usually Share
Wait, don't roll your eyes. This isn't just about avoiding a headache. It's about terroir. When you drink a bottle from a producer like Frank Cornelissen or Gut Oggau at The Four Horsemen Brooklyn, you’re tasting a specific plot of land in Sicily or Austria. The staff here are basically professors of viticulture who don't act like snobs. You can tell them, "I want something that tastes like a cold forest floor," and they won't blink. They’ll just grab a bottle of something cloudy and red and tell you why the volcanic soil made it taste like that.
The list changes constantly. That’s the nature of small-batch production. You might fall in love with a Gamay from the Beaujolais region one week, and by the next, it’s gone, replaced by a skin-contact wine from Slovenia that tastes like dried apricots and salt. It's an ephemeral experience.
It’s a Restaurant First, a Wine Bar Second
A lot of people make the mistake of thinking the food is just "snacks" to soak up the booze. That’s a massive undervaluation of what’s happening in the kitchen. Since Nick Curtola took the reins, the menu has consistently punched way above its weight class. We’re talking about a Michelin star for a reason.
The menu is seasonal, leaning heavily into whatever is peaking at the Union Square Greenmarket. You might find:
- Sourdough with cultured butter that actually tastes like cream.
- Beef tartare that isn't just a pile of raw meat, but a complex balance of acidity and crunch.
- Snap peas tossed in a minty vinaigrette that makes you realize you've been cooking vegetables wrong your entire life.
- Pasta dishes that rival the best Italian spots in the city.
The secret is the simplicity. They don't hide behind heavy sauces. When the ingredients are this good, you just let them sit there and be delicious. It’s "wine food" in the sense that it’s salty, acidic, and fatty in all the right places to make the wine pop, but it stands alone as a destination meal.
📖 Related: Why the Man Black Hair Blue Eyes Combo is So Rare (and the Genetics Behind It)
The Reality of Getting a Table
Okay, let’s be real for a second. Getting into The Four Horsemen Brooklyn is a sport. If you try to walk in at 7:00 PM on a Friday, you are going to be disappointed. You’ll be standing on the sidewalk for two hours.
Reservations drop on Resy 21 days in advance at 10:00 AM sharp. If you aren't clicking "Book" by 10:01, you're looking at a 10:30 PM dinner. Is it worth the hustle? Yeah. But if you hate planning, your best bet is to go for lunch or show up right when they open for "afternoon wine" and snag a spot at the bar. The bar is arguably the best seat in the house anyway. You get to watch the bartenders work, see the labels of what everyone else is drinking, and maybe strike up a conversation with someone who flew in from London just to eat the bread.
Why Natural Wine Isn't Just a Trend Anymore
There was a moment around 2018 where people thought natural wine was a fad, like kale or fidget spinners. The Four Horsemen Brooklyn proved them wrong by treating these wines with the same reverence usually reserved for 1982 Bordeaux.
By focusing on "clean" natural wine—wines that aren't flawed or mousy, but vibrant and alive—they've educated a whole generation of drinkers. They showed us that wine doesn't have to be stiff. It can be fun. It can be weird. It can have a label that looks like a 90s zine.
Common Misconceptions
- It’s all expensive: Not true. While they have rare bottles that cost as much as a month’s rent, there are always accessible carafes and glasses that won't break the bank.
- It’s just for hipsters: You’ll see everyone from neighborhood regulars to world-class chefs eating here. Quality transcends the outfit.
- The wine tastes like cider: Some does! But many natural wines are indistinguishable from "traditional" wines to the untrained palate—they just feel "brighter."
Navigating the Wine List Like a Pro
When the server hands you that list, don't panic. You don't need to know the difference between a Pet-Nat and a Piquette.
👉 See also: Chuck E. Cheese in Boca Raton: Why This Location Still Wins Over Parents
- Be Honest: Tell them what you usually like. If you like "big buttery Chardonnays," say that. They will find the natural equivalent that will blow your mind.
- Ask for the "Off-Menu" stuff: Sometimes they have open bottles from a previous tasting or a rare mag that they’re pouring by the glass just for the hell of it.
- Go by the Glass First: Don't commit to a bottle of something "funky" until you've tried a splash. The staff is usually happy to give you a tiny taste to make sure you won't hate it.
- Orange Wine is a Spectrum: It can be light and floral or tannic and "grippy" like a red. Clarify which vibe you’re going for.
The Legacy of the Horsemen
What Murphy and his team built isn't just a business; it’s a culture. They’ve spawned dozens of imitators across the country. Every time you see a wine bar with light wood, no tablecloths, and a playlist of obscure Japanese ambient music, you’re seeing the influence of this one spot on Grand Street.
It’s about intentionality. Every detail, from the weight of the fork to the temperature of the white wine (hint: it’s often served a bit warmer than you think to let the aromas out), has been obsessed over. That obsession is what keeps it relevant in a city that usually eats its darlings after three years.
How to Make the Most of Your Visit
If you're planning to head to The Four Horsemen Brooklyn, here is the play-by-play for a perfect experience.
- Set a Resy Alert: If you missed the 21-day window, set an alert for the date you want. People cancel last minute all the time, especially around 4:00 PM on the day of.
- Start with the Bread: Seriously. The sourdough and butter is non-negotiable. It sets the stage for everything else.
- Trust the Pairing: If the server suggests a wine that sounds "challenging," try it. This is the place to push your boundaries.
- Check Out Day Moves: Their sister shop right next door is great for grabbing a bottle to take home if you find something you can't live without.
- Budget for 2 Hours: Don't rush this. The pacing of the meal is designed to be slow. Drink water. Order another small plate. Enjoy the music.
The Four Horsemen isn't about being "cool," even though it effortlessly is. It's about a fundamental respect for the craft of fermentation, whether that’s in a grape or a piece of sourdough. It's one of those rare places that actually lives up to the hype. Just remember to book that table early.