You’ve seen the "farm-to-table" tag slapped on everything from airport sandwiches to high-end bistros lately. It’s become a bit of a marketing cliché. But then you walk into The Farm & Fisherman Tavern, and you realize something feels different. It isn’t just about the rustic wood or the Edison bulbs. It's the fact that Josh and Colleen Lawler actually live this stuff.
They started with a tiny, 20-seat BYOB in Philadelphia that was basically a culinary laboratory. Now, with the Tavern concept in Cherry Hill and Horsham, they’ve scaled that obsession. It’s hard to do. Most places lose their soul when they grow. Somehow, this place kept it.
The Reality of Sourcing at The Farm & Fisherman Tavern
Let’s be real. Buying from local farmers is a logistical nightmare. It’s way easier to call a massive national distributor and have a truck drop off everything at 6:00 AM.
At The Farm & Fisherman Tavern, they don’t do "easy." They work with folks like Zone 7, a distributor that connects Mid-Atlantic farms to chefs. This means the menu is basically at the mercy of the dirt. If the weather in New Jersey or Pennsylvania goes sideways, the menu changes. Period. You might go in expecting the famous Bloody Beet Steak—which, honestly, is the only vegetable dish that actually feels like a meal—and find they’ve tweaked the preparation because the soil moisture changed the sugar content of the beets.
That’s the kind of geeky detail that makes this place stick. It’s not just "food from a farm." It’s food that respects the specific constraints of the region.
The Bloody Beet Steak: A Masterclass in Not Trying Too Hard
People talk about the Beet Steak a lot. Why? Because most vegetarian "steaks" are just a thick slice of cauliflower or a sad portobello mushroom.
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The Lawlers treat the beet like a piece of dry-aged beef. They roast it, smoke it, and serve it with pan-seared greens and a red wine jus. It’s savory. It’s earthy. It’s also a bit of a gamble. Some people hate beets. But if you’re going to The Farm & Fisherman Tavern, you’re basically signing up for that kind of bold, produce-forward thinking. It isn't trying to be meat; it's trying to show you what a vegetable can do when it’s treated with some respect.
Why the "Tavern" Label Matters
The word "Tavern" is intentional. It’s a move away from the "precious" feeling of their original Philly spot.
In Cherry Hill, you see families with kids sitting next to a couple on a third date who are split-testing the craft beer list. It’s loud. It’s busy. There’s a market attached to the side where you can buy the same cheese or pickles you just ate. This blurring of the lines between a grocery store, a bar, and a high-end kitchen is what makes it a community hub rather than a destination you only visit once a year for an anniversary.
The bar program isn't an afterthought, either. They focus on regional spirits and craft beers that actually pair with the food. You won’t find a generic 20-tap list of stuff you can get at the gas station. It’s curated. It’s specific. It’s local.
The Horsham vs. Cherry Hill Dynamic
While both locations share the DNA of The Farm & Fisherman Tavern, they have different vibes. The Cherry Hill location, tucked into a shopping center on Route 70, feels like a secret escape from the suburban sprawl. You turn the corner and suddenly you're in a place that feels like a barn in Bucks County.
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Horsham brings that same energy to Montgomery County. It’s about accessibility. The Lawlers realized that people in the suburbs want the quality of a downtown Philly tasting menu without the $30 parking fee and the two-hour commute.
What Most People Miss About the Menu
Everyone looks at the entrees, but the "Small Plates" and "Snacks" sections are where the real experimentation happens.
- The Pickles: They ferment in-house. It’s funky, salty, and way better than the neon-green chips you get elsewhere.
- The Bread: It isn't just a filler. They take their grain sourcing seriously.
- The Burger: Honestly, even in a vegetable-heavy place, the burger is a sleeper hit. They use high-quality beef from local pastures, and you can taste the difference in the fat content.
There’s a nuance to the seasoning here. It isn't just salt and pepper. They use acidity—vinegars, citrus, fermented juices—to brighten up heavy winter dishes. That’s a hallmark of a kitchen that knows what it’s doing.
Handling the Critics and the Crowds
Is it perfect? No. Because they rely on seasonal ingredients, sometimes a dish might feel a little "thin" if the harvest wasn't great. And let’s talk about the noise. If you’re looking for a quiet, whispered conversation, Friday night at the Tavern might be a challenge. It’s a lively spot.
Some folks complain about the prices. Yeah, a salad here costs more than at a fast-casual chain. But you’re paying for the fact that the person who grew that lettuce actually got paid a fair wage, and the lettuce didn't sit in a plastic bag on a ship for three weeks. You pay for the transparency.
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Navigating the Experience: Real Tips
If you're planning a visit, don't just walk in at 7:00 PM on a Saturday and expect a seat. Use the reservation system.
- Check the Market First: If you’re at the Cherry Hill spot, hit the market side before you eat. It gives you a preview of the ingredients and lets you grab some stuff to take home before they close.
- Order for the Table: This is "tavern" dining. Get the beet steak, get the daily fish, and definitely get whatever seasonal toast they have on the menu.
- Ask About the Specials: The specials aren't just things they're trying to get rid of. Usually, it's a small batch of something a farmer brought to the back door that morning.
- Don't Skip Dessert: They usually have something involving seasonal fruit or a really dense, high-quality chocolate that rounds out the earthy flavors of the meal.
The Farm & Fisherman Tavern represents a shift in how we eat in the suburbs. It’s an admission that we care about where our food comes from, but we also just want a really good drink in a place where we don't have to wear a suit. It’s a balance of high-end culinary skill and "come as you are" hospitality.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
To get the most out of the Tavern, start by checking their social media or website for the "Daily Board." They often post what’s fresh that day. If you have dietary restrictions, this is one of the few places where you don't have to worry; the kitchen is used to working with whole foods and can usually pivot easily.
Plan your arrival for slightly before your reservation to browse the attached market. It’s the best way to see the raw ingredients—from local cheeses to heritage grains—that define the Lawlers' philosophy. Finally, keep an eye out for their special events, like wine dinners or seasonal festivals, which offer a deeper look into the specific farms they partner with throughout the year.