Hamburg is a city of water. You have the Alster, the Elbe, and a million canals. But honestly, most people spend their time looking at the water from the ground level, which is fine, but you're missing the scale of the thing. If you want to actually see how this city breathes, you have to go up. That's usually where the Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar enters the conversation.
It’s called "20up."
The name isn't a marketing gimmick. It’s on the 20th floor. When you step out of that elevator, you’re greeted by a 20-meter-long counter and windows that stretch from the floor to the ceiling. It’s a bit disorienting at first. The Landungsbrücken look like a toy set from up there. You see the massive container ships, the glowing blue lights of the harbor at night, and the chaotic energy of the Reeperbahn just a few blocks away. It’s arguably the most famous skyline view in Northern Germany.
What actually happens at 20up?
Most high-end hotel bars feel stiff. You know the vibe—hushed whispers and people clinking glasses like they're afraid to break the silence. The Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar isn't quite that, but it does have a dress code. They call it "smart casual." Don't show up in flip-flops or a tracksuit. I've seen people get turned away at the door for looking like they just rolled out of a hostel bunk.
The bar was designed by David Chipperfield. He’s the architect who handled the Neues Museum in Berlin. You can tell. Everything is bronze, dark stone, and glass. It feels expensive. It feels like the kind of place where a shipping tycoon might close a deal while you’re just trying to figure out if you can afford a second round of drinks.
The drinks are the real deal, though. This isn't a place that relies on the view to hide a bad cocktail. The menu is massive. They have the classics, sure, but the bartenders here actually know how to mix. If you ask for a dry martini, you aren't getting a glass of warm gin with an old olive. You're getting something precise.
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The logistics of getting a seat
Here is the thing no one tells you: you cannot reserve a table. Not even if you’re staying at the hotel. It’s first-come, first-served. If you show up at 9:00 PM on a Saturday, expect to stand in a line.
- Pro tip: Get there right when they open (usually around 6:00 PM).
- Watching the sunset over the Elbe is better than seeing it in total darkness anyway.
- The light hits the Philharmonie just right during the "blue hour."
If the line is too long, people often give up and go somewhere else. Don't. The turnover is actually pretty fast because people come for one drink, take their photos, and head back down to the Reeperbahn to get rowdy. Stick it out for fifteen minutes.
The Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar vs. Tower Bar
People always compare 20up to the Tower Bar at Hotel Hafen Hamburg. They’re right next to each other. Literally. You could throw a stone from one to the other. But they are completely different animals.
The Tower Bar is more traditional. It feels like an old captain’s lounge. It’s cozy. The Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar is the opposite—it’s sleek, modern, and intentionally "cool." If you want a romantic, old-world vibe, go to the Tower Bar. If you want to feel like you’re in a Bond movie, stay at the Riverside.
The price reflects that too. You’re going to pay more at 20up. You’re paying for the floor-to-ceiling glass. You’re paying for the fact that the bar is 90 meters above the Elbe. Is it a "tourist trap"? Sorta. But it’s a trap that even locals fall into because the view is legitimately unbeatable. There is no other spot in the city that gives you that specific 180-degree panorama of the port.
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Beyond the cocktails: The sushi and the vibe
They serve food, but don't come here expecting a three-course steak dinner. It’s mostly high-end snacks and sushi. The sushi is surprisingly good for a bar. It’s fresh, which makes sense considering the fish market is basically at the foot of the building.
The atmosphere shifts as the night goes on. Early evening is quiet—business travelers and couples. By 11:00 PM, the music gets louder. It’s not a club, but it has that "pre-club" energy. You’ll see people in cocktail dresses and tailored suits getting ready to head into the St. Pauli nightlife. It’s a transition space.
Why the architecture matters
Chipperfield’s design for the Empire Riverside Hotel was meant to bridge the gap between the gritty docks and the rising wealth of the city. The building itself is clad in bronze-colored brick and glass. It looks like it belongs in a harbor.
Inside the bar, the lighting is kept intentionally low. This isn't just for mood. If the lights were bright, you wouldn't be able to see out the windows because of the reflection. Because it's dark, the city lights become the wallpaper. It’s a clever trick. You feel like you're floating over the Elbe.
The hard truths about 20up
Let's be real for a second.
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- It’s expensive. A cocktail will run you 15 to 20 Euros easily.
- The service can be slow when it's packed. The bartenders are fast, but the floor staff has to weave through a lot of people standing around.
- It’s loud. If you’re looking for a deep, philosophical conversation, the bass might get in your way.
But honestly? None of that matters when you're looking at a cruise ship the size of a skyscraper pulling out of the terminal right in front of you.
How to actually enjoy the experience
If you want to do the Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar right, don't just walk in and order a beer. That's a waste of a seat. Look at the signature menu. They usually have drinks inspired by the harbor—lots of sea buckthorn, gin, and herbal notes that feel very "Hamburg."
Check the weather before you go. If it’s a classic Hamburg "Schietwetter" (gray, foggy, raining sideways), the view is basically a white wall of mist. Wait for a clear night or a night with broken clouds. The way the moon reflects off the Elbe is something you’ll actually remember.
Also, don't be that person who spends forty minutes trying to take the perfect selfie. The glass is reflective, and your flash will just bounce back and ruin the photo anyway. Turn the flash off, put your phone against the glass to kill the reflection, take one shot, and then put the phone away. Drink your drink. Look at the cranes.
Actionable steps for your visit
To make the most of your night at the Empire Riverside Hotel Hamburg bar, follow this sequence:
- Check the Dress Code: Make sure you're wearing leather shoes or very clean, high-end sneakers. No shorts. No hats.
- Time it Right: Arrive 15 minutes before opening or wait until after the "sunset rush" around 10:30 PM.
- The "Window Seat" Strategy: If a window seat isn't open, grab a spot at the long bar first. Tip your server early and ask them to let you know if a window table opens up. It works more often than you’d think.
- Order the "Empire" drinks: Skip the Heineken. Try a drink with North Sea ingredients or a high-end Riesling.
- Explore the Hotel: After your drink, take a walk through the lobby. The architecture is world-class and worth a look even if you aren't staying there.
The bar at Empire Riverside isn't just a place to get drunk. It's a viewing platform that happens to serve alcohol. It's the best way to understand the geography of Hamburg without buying a plane ticket. Just remember to bring your wallet and leave your cargo shorts at the hotel.