New Zealand has plenty of places to grab a beer, but there's only one that holds "License No. 1." If you walk up the steps of the Duke of Marlborough Hotel Russell, you’re literally stepping into the birthplace of legal drinking in this country. It’s a strange, beautiful, and slightly rowdy piece of history that sits right on the waterfront of the Bay of Islands.
Honestly, Russell is pretty quiet these days. It’s a boutique town. You see people eating gelato and looking at yachts. But back in the 1800s? This place was known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific." It was a chaotic mess of whalers, traders, and convicts. The Duke was right in the middle of it. It’s survived fires, wars, and the shifting tides of Kiwi politics to remain the "Grand Old Lady" of the North.
The Duke of Marlborough Hotel Russell: A History of Bad Behavior and Legal Firsts
The story doesn't start with a fancy hotel. It starts with an ex-convict named Johnny Johnston. Johnny was a savvy guy. He bought the site in 1827. Back then, Russell was called Kororāreka. It wasn't exactly a family-friendly vacation spot. We are talking about a beach lined with grog shops and brothels.
Johnny was smart enough to realize that if he wanted to keep the peace—and his profits—he needed some sort of official standing. When the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840 just across the water, the new government started handing out liquor licenses. Johnny snagged the very first one. That’s why you see "License No. 1" proudly displayed on the sign outside today.
But history wasn't always kind. The original building didn't make it through the 1845 Battle of Kororāreka. If you know your NZ history, you know about Hone Heke and the flagpole. The town was basically leveled. The Duke you see today is actually the fourth version of the building. It’s been rebuilt and renovated so many times that it’s a bit of a Frankenstein’s monster of architecture, but in a way that totally works.
What It’s Actually Like Inside Today
You might expect a place this old to feel like a dusty museum. It doesn't.
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The current owners, Anton and Bridget Haagh and Riki and Jayne Kinnaird, took over in 2010. They did a massive job of updating the place without sucking the soul out of it. It’s got that high-ceiling, wooden-floor vibe that makes you want to order a whiskey and talk about the sea.
The dining room is the real draw. You’re looking out over the water toward Waitangi and Paihia. On a clear day, the blue is almost blinding.
- The Food: They lean hard into local seafood. The Te Matuku oysters from Waiheke or the local Bay of Islands green-lipped mussels are usually the go-to.
- The Vibe: It’s "barefoot luxury." You can show up in a suit if you're there for a wedding, but nobody is going to look at you weirdly if you've got sandy flip-flops and a sun-faded hat.
- The Rooms: They vary. Some are small and historic; some have balconies that make you feel like you own the bay.
If you’re staying the night, try to get a room with a waterfront balcony. Seriously. Sitting there at 6:00 PM with a glass of Northland Chardonnay while the ferry chugs back and forth is basically the peak Russell experience.
The "Hell Hole" Reputation vs. Modern Reality
People talk about the "Hell Hole of the Pacific" like it’s just a marketing slogan. It wasn't. In the 1830s, there were roughly 20-30 grog shops for a tiny population. Charles Darwin even visited on the Beagle and basically said the place was full of the "refuse of society." He hated it.
The Duke of Marlborough Hotel Russell was the sophisticated alternative, or at least it tried to be. It was named after the Duke of Marlborough, who was a big deal in the UK at the time, to give it an air of British respectability. It was a bit of a "fake it 'til you make it" strategy.
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Today, that rowdiness is gone. Russell is one of the most expensive places to buy real estate in New Zealand. The Duke is now a premier wedding venue. It's funny how time works. The place where sailors used to get into knife fights is now where people cut tiered cakes and do the electric slide.
Why the Location Matters
The Duke is positioned on The Strand. In Russell, The Strand is the main road, but it’s barely a road. It’s a narrow strip between the buildings and the beach.
Because there’s no big seawall or massive highway, the hotel feels connected to the ocean. When the tide is high, the water is just meters from the front lawn. This proximity to the sea is why the hotel was so successful in the first place—ships could anchor right in front, and sailors could be at the bar in five minutes.
Common Misconceptions About the Duke
I’ve heard people say the Duke is the oldest building in New Zealand. It’s not. Not even close. The Kemp House in Kerikeri holds that title (built in 1821-22).
As I mentioned, the Duke has been destroyed and rebuilt. The current structure largely dates back to the early 1900s, with a lot of modern additions. What is the oldest is the license. That continuity of service is what matters. It has been a place of hospitality on that specific patch of dirt for nearly 200 years.
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Another thing: people think it’s just a "tourist trap." Sure, tourists go there. Lots of them. But it’s still a local hub. If you go in the middle of winter on a Tuesday, you’ll see the local boaties and residents sitting at the bar. That’s the litmus test for a good pub. If the locals won’t drink there, you shouldn't either. The Duke passes.
Planning Your Visit: What You Need to Know
If you're driving from Auckland, it’s a solid three to four hours. You have two choices when you get to the Bay of Islands.
- The Road: You can drive all the way around through the windy Old Russell Road. It’s scenic but takes forever.
- The Ferry: Most people drive to Opua and take the vehicle ferry. It’s quick, cheap, and saves your brakes.
Once you’re in Russell, park the car and leave it. The town is tiny. You can walk from the Duke to the Pompallier Mission or up to Flagstaff Hill without breaking a sweat.
The Menu Highlights
Don't just look at the fish and chips. Yes, they’re good. But the kitchen usually does something interesting with game or local produce. Northland has a subtropical climate, so the citrus and avocados you get up there are top-tier.
Check the chalkboard for the "Catch of the Day." Usually, it’s snapper or tarakihi caught within a few miles of where you’re sitting. You can’t get much fresher than that.
Actionable Insights for Your Trip
To get the most out of a visit to the Duke of Marlborough Hotel Russell, keep these specific tips in mind:
- Book dinner well in advance: Especially in summer (December–February). The deck fills up fast, and you don't want to be stuck inside if the weather is nice.
- Visit the "Grog Room": Ask the staff about the history. There are old photos and documents scattered around that explain the transition from the 1800s to now.
- Time the Sunset: The Duke faces west across the bay. It is one of the few places in the East Coast North Island where you can actually watch the sun set over the water.
- Respect the "License No. 1": Take a second to look at the framed license near the entrance. It’s a genuine piece of New Zealand’s legal history.
- Explore the back streets: After a meal, walk a block back to Christ Church. You can still see musket holes in the wood from the 1845 war. It puts your lunch in perspective.
The Duke isn't just a hotel; it’s a survivor. Whether you're there for the history or just a cold pint of Tuatara on a hot day, it remains the anchor of the Russell waterfront.