Walk onto any high-end residential framing site or a custom cabinetry shop, and you’ll see it. That bright yellow housing. The distinctive scream of a universal motor winding up. Honestly, the DeWalt 12 inch miter saw—specifically the DWS780—has become such a staple that we almost stop seeing it. It’s just "the saw."
But here’s the thing.
Tools change fast. We’ve seen cordless tech try to take over, and we’ve seen specialized "gliding" arms from competitors like Bosch and Festool try to steal the crown. Yet, pros keep buying the DeWalt. Why? Is it just brand loyalty? Or is there something about the geometry of a 12-inch blade and a double-bevel slide that just works better than the alternatives?
I’ve spent years breaking down tools, and I can tell you it isn't perfect. It’s heavy. It’s loud. It’s a bit of a dust monster if you don’t have a vacuum hooked up. But when you need to drop a 6-inch piece of nested crown molding into the fence and get a dead-accurate cut on the first try, this is the machine people trust.
The Cut Capacity Reality Check
Most people think they need a 12-inch saw because they want to cut huge 4x12 beams. You can do that, sure. But the real reason the DeWalt 12 inch miter saw wins is the vertical capacity.
If you are trimming a house with 5-1/4" baseboards, a 10-inch saw is going to struggle to cut those vertically against the fence. You’ll end up having to lay the board flat and mess with complicated bevel and miter combinations. It’s a headache. With the DWS780, you just stand that board up. The tall sliding fences support up to 6-3/4 inches of baseboard vertically. That saves you hours of mental math and potential waste.
Think about the physics. A larger blade means a larger radius, which translates to a deeper "throat" for the cut.
DeWalt uses a specific "back fence" design that allows you to cut a 2x16 at 90 degrees or a 2x12 at a 45-degree miter. That’s huge. Most 10-inch saws tap out at a 2x12 at 90 degrees. If you’re building a deck and using 2x12 joists, the 10-inch saw will leave a tiny sliver of wood uncut at the very back. You have to flip the board. It’s annoying. The 12-inch solves that instantly.
The XPS System vs. Lasers
Let’s talk about the shadow.
Almost every other brand uses a laser. Lasers are fine, I guess, until you go outside. In direct sunlight, a red or green laser line disappears. Plus, lasers need calibration. If you bump the saw, the laser might be off by 1/16th of an inch, and suddenly your miter joints look like a disaster.
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DeWalt did something smarter with their XPS Worklight.
Instead of a laser, they put an LED light directly above the blade. The light casts a physical shadow of the blade onto the workpiece. Since the shadow is created by the actual teeth of the blade, it can never be out of calibration. It shows you exactly where the kerf will be. It’s basically foolproof.
You’ve probably seen guys squinting at their marks on a sunny driveway—with the XPS, the brighter the sun, the sharper the shadow. It’s a simple solution to a complex problem. Honestly, once you use a shadow line, you’ll never want to go back to a laser again.
Power and the "Universal" Problem
Under the hood of the corded DeWalt 12 inch miter saw, you’ve got a 15-amp motor. It’s a beast. It spins at about 3,800 RPM.
Now, some purists will tell you that a belt-drive motor is smoother. They aren't wrong. The DeWalt uses a gear-driven system, which means there is a slight "kick" when you pull the trigger. It’s a bit jarring the first few times. But gears don't slip. When you’re pushing through wet, pressure-treated 4x4 posts, that torque is exactly what you need.
There’s a downside to all that power, though. Noise.
This saw is loud enough to wake the neighbors three houses down. If you’re working in a shop, you absolutely need hearing protection. But the trade-off is a tool that doesn't bog down. I’ve seen people try to stall these out on thick white oak, and while the blade might slow, the motor just keeps chewing.
Bevels, Miters, and The "Wobble"
One of the most common complaints about 12-inch saws in general—not just DeWalt—is blade deflection.
Because a 12-inch blade is bigger, it’s thinner relative to its size compared to a 10-inch blade. When you start a cut, the blade can "flutter" or flex slightly. This is where most DIYers get frustrated. They buy a $600 saw and wonder why their 45-degree miters aren't perfect.
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Usually, it isn't the saw. It’s the blade.
The stock blade that comes in the box is... okay. It’s fine for framing a shed. But if you’re doing finish work, you need to swap it out for a high-quality 80-tooth or 100-tooth blade from someone like Forrest or Freud. A heavy-duty blade plate reduces that wobble.
The miter detent plate on the DeWalt is made of stainless steel. It has 10 positive stops. It’s sturdy, but like any tool made of metal, it can wear down over five years of heavy use. Fortunately, it’s adjustable. You can fine-tune the pointer and the stops to keep it dead-on.
Portability is a Joke (Mostly)
Let’s be real. This saw is a tank.
It weighs about 56 pounds. If you’re lugging this up three flights of stairs to trim out an apartment, you’re going to be cursing your life choices. DeWalt knows this. They’ve added some decent handles, and the rails lock down to keep the head from sliding around while you carry it.
But if you’re a mobile contractor, you basically must buy the rolling stand (the DWX726). Trying to use this saw on the ground is a recipe for back surgery.
I’ve seen some guys opting for the 10-inch cordless versions lately because they’re lighter. But they always come back to the 12-inch when they realize they can't cut 6-inch crown in one go. You’re trading weight for capability. In my experience, capability wins every time.
Precision and Maintenance
If you want your DeWalt 12 inch miter saw to last a decade, you have to treat it like a precision instrument, not a sledgehammer.
- Clean the Rails: The dual horizontal steel rails are the heart of the sliding mechanism. If sawdust builds up on them, the slide gets "crunchy." A quick wipe down and a little dry lubricant (not WD-40, which attracts dust) goes a long way.
- Check the Fence: Sometimes during shipping or after a rough ride in a truck, the two-piece fence can get knocked out of alignment. Use a reliable framing square to make sure the fence is perfectly 90 degrees to the blade.
- Dust Collection: The little bag that comes with the saw is basically a suggestion. It catches maybe 20% of the dust. If you're working indoors, you need a 2-1/2 inch vacuum hose hooked up to the port.
Comparing the DWS780 vs. DWS779
This is the question that saves people $200.
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DeWalt makes two versions that look almost identical: the DWS780 and the DWS779.
The DWS780 is the "flagship." It has the XPS shadow light system and a slightly more refined finish. The DWS779 is the "budget" pro version. It lacks the light. That’s pretty much the only major difference.
Is a light worth 200 bucks?
Maybe not. But many people buy the DWS779 and then buy an aftermarket LED kit to "upgrade" it. Honestly, if you can find the 780 on sale, grab it. If you’re on a budget, the 779 is the exact same mechanical saw. You’re getting the same motor, same capacity, and same build quality.
What Most People Get Wrong
The biggest mistake I see? Using the slide for every cut.
If you are cutting a 2x4, you don't need to slide the saw. You should lock the slide and use it as a "chop" saw. This reduces the chance of the blade moving and gives you a cleaner cut. Only use the sliding motion for boards wider than 8 inches.
Also, don't "force" the cut. Let the blade reach full speed before it touches the wood. If you jam the blade into the wood as you're starting the motor, you'll get a rough entry and potentially a kickback.
Actionable Setup Steps
- Unbox and Squaring: Don't trust the factory. Grab a machinist's square and check the blade-to-fence and blade-to-table angles immediately.
- Blade Swap: If you are doing anything more precise than a backyard fence, take the stock blade off. Put on a Freud Diablo 80-tooth blade at the minimum.
- Zero-Clearance Insert: The factory throat plate has a wide gap to allow for bevel cuts. This leads to "tear-out" on the bottom of your wood. Make or buy a zero-clearance insert to support the wood fibers right up to the blade.
- Stand Choice: If you’re stationary, bolt it to a bench. If you’re mobile, get the DWX723 heavy-duty stand. It’s lighter than the rolling one and incredibly stable.
The DeWalt 12 inch miter saw isn't the fanciest tool on the market anymore. It doesn't have a digital touch screen or a brushless motor (unless you go for the $800 FlexVolt version). But it is a workhorse. It’s the tool you buy when you want to stop thinking about your tools and just start building. It’s reliable, it’s powerful, and it’s capable of the kind of accuracy that makes a professional job look professional.
Keep the rails clean, use a sharp blade, and always trust the shadow over the laser. That’s how you get the most out of this machine.