Curly hair is a chaos engine. Most guys spend their entire lives trying to flatten it, buzz it off, or drown it in enough heavy pomade to stop a moving train. But then there’s the curly side part men are increasingly asking for at high-end barbershops, and honestly, it’s a high-wire act. It’s that rare intersection of "I have a corporate job" and "I actually have a personality."
It looks effortless. It isn't.
If you’ve ever tried to force a comb through a tight 3C curl pattern to find a straight line, you know the struggle. You end up with a frizzy triangle or a part that disappears the moment you step into 40% humidity. Getting this right requires more than just a steady hand; it requires an understanding of hair density, growth patterns, and the basic laws of physics.
The Geometry of the Perfect Part
The biggest mistake? Putting the part in the wrong place. Most barbers will tell you to follow the "natural part," but if you have curls, your hair might not even have one. It just grows up. To find the sweet spot for a curly side part men can actually maintain, you need to look at the outer corner of your eye. That’s usually your anchor point.
Go too high toward the middle, and you look like you’re wearing a toupee that’s sliding off. Go too low toward the temple, and you’ve basically just given yourself an undercut with a weird flap of hair.
The part itself shouldn't be a shaved "hard part" for everyone. While those look crisp for about four days, the regrowth on curly hair is brutal. It looks like a prickly hedge within a week. Instead, many stylists, like those at the famous Murdock London, suggest a "soft part." This is where you use the weight of the hair and a bit of product to suggest a line rather than carving one into your scalp with a straight razor.
It’s All About the Fade (Or Lack Thereof)
Texture is your best friend and your worst enemy here. If you have fine, wavy hair (Type 2A or 2B), you can get away with a lot of length on the sides. But for the tighter coils found in Type 4 hair, the sides usually need to be kept tight to provide contrast.
- The Taper Fade: This is the safest bet. It keeps the edges clean but leaves enough hair around the ears to blend into the top.
- The Scissor Cut: If you’re going for that "Old Money" aesthetic—think Patrick Dempsey—you don't want clippers. You want bulk.
- The Disconnected Undercut: This is risky. It can look a bit "Peaky Blinders" if you aren't careful, which might be too aggressive for a Monday morning board meeting.
Why Your Products are Probably Killing the Look
Most guys grab the first tub of "strong hold" wax they see. Stop doing that. Curly hair is naturally drier than straight hair because the scalp's oils can't travel down the corkscrew shape of the hair shaft as easily. When you use high-alcohol gels, you’re essentially turning your head into a desert.
You need moisture.
Think creams. Think leave-in conditioners. If you’re rocking the curly side part men see on celebrities like Bruno Mars or Penn Badgley, you’re looking at a multi-step process. You start with a salt spray on damp hair to give it some "grit," then you apply a styling cream to define the curls, and then you find the part.
Don't use a fine-tooth comb. You’ll just break the curl pattern and end up with a frothy mess. Use your fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
The "S" Pattern vs. The Coil
If your hair is wavy, you want to accentuate the "S" shape. Pliable pastes work best here. If you have tight coils, you’re looking for "clumping." This is where individual strands of hair join forces to form a defined shape. Without clumping, the side part just looks like a fuzzy blur.
The Maintenance Reality Check
Let’s be real: this is not a "roll out of bed and go" haircut. If you want a curly side part men will actually admire, you’re committing to a routine.
First, the wash cycle. Washing your hair every day is the fastest way to ruin this look. It strips the oils, leads to frizz, and makes the hair too "fluffy" to hold a part. Twice a week is plenty. On the off days, just rinse with water and maybe a bit of conditioner.
Second, the "Pineapple" method—or some variation of it. If you sleep on your curls, you’ll wake up with one side flattened and the other side looking like a bird’s nest. Silk pillowcases sound fancy and slightly ridiculous, but they actually work by reducing friction. Or, you just accept that you’ll have to re-dampen and re-style every single morning.
Common Pitfalls: What Most People Get Wrong
People think the side part is a "fix" for thinning hair. It isn't. In fact, if you're thinning at the crown, a side part can actually highlight the problem by pulling hair away from the areas that need coverage.
Another issue? The "Leaning Tower" effect. This happens when the top is too long and the sides are too short. Eventually, gravity wins, and your side-parted curls start drooping over your ear. It looks sloppy. You need enough length to create the "flip" but not so much that the weight collapses the volume. Usually, 3 to 4 inches on top is the "Goldilocks" zone.
Real-World Inspiration
Look at guys like Seth Rogen. He moved from "shambolic curls" to a structured side part and it completely changed his silhouette. It made him look intentional. That’s the keyword here: intentionality.
A messy head of curls says you forgot to buy a comb. A curly side part says you know exactly who you are and you have a favorite tailor.
Technical Breakdown of the Cut
When you go to the barber, don't just ask for a "curly side part." That’s too vague.
Instead, ask for a mid-taper with a blended transition. Specify that you want to keep the weight on top to allow the curls to form. If they pull out a thinning shear, watch them closely. Thinning shears on curly hair can sometimes create "shorter" hairs that act like springs, pushing the rest of the hair out and creating unwanted frizz.
- Front: Should reach the bridge of your nose when pulled straight.
- Crown: Needs to be slightly shorter than the front to prevent a "pope" hat look.
- Sides: Depending on your face shape. Round faces need tighter sides to add height. Square faces can handle more bulk on the sides.
Actionable Next Steps for Mastering the Look
Stop using a towel to vigorously dry your hair. You're snapping the hair fibers and creating a halo of frizz that will obscure your part. Instead, use an old cotton T-shirt to gently pat it dry. It sounds weird. It works.
Go buy a dedicated curl cream. Brands like SheaMoisture or Bevel make products specifically for the physics of curly hair. Apply it while the hair is still quite damp—almost dripping.
Define the part while the hair is wet. Use a wide-tooth comb to find that line from the outer eye corner back toward the crown. Once you find it, do not touch it. Let it air dry or use a diffuser on a low heat setting. Touching curly hair while it dries is the number one cause of "the frizzies."
Invest in a matte clay if you want a modern look, or a water-based pomade if you want that 1920s jazz-age shine. Just remember: with curls, less is usually more. You want the hair to move, not look like a plastic helmet.
Keep your barber appointments every 3-4 weeks. Once the hair on the sides starts curling over your ears, the "part" loses its structural integrity and you just look like you need a haircut. Tight sides are the frame that makes the curly top look like art rather than an accident.
Find your anchor point, respect the curl, and stop washing your hair so much. That's the secret.