Why the Crochet Button Up Shirt is the Only Summer Layer That Actually Makes Sense

Why the Crochet Button Up Shirt is the Only Summer Layer That Actually Makes Sense

You’ve seen them everywhere. On the boardwalk in Venice Beach, in the background of every second TikTok "Outfit of the Day," and definitely on that one friend who suddenly started dressing like they own a villa in Italy. The crochet button up shirt has basically staged a hostile takeover of the modern wardrobe. And honestly? It’s about time. For a while there, we were all trapped in a cycle of heavy flannels or those paper-thin fast fashion linens that wrinkle if you even look at them the wrong way. But crochet is different. It’s got heft. It’s got holes. It’s the closest thing we have to wearable air conditioning that doesn’t look like you’re heading to the gym.

There is a weird misconception that crochet is just for grandmas or Coachella. That’s just wrong. If you look at the runway history of brands like Bode or Casablanca, they’ve been leaning into these open-knit textures for years. They understood something most people are just catching onto now: texture is more interesting than print. A solid white crochet button up shirt has more visual "pop" than a loud Hawaiian print because of the way light hits the yarn and the way the skin or an undershirt peeks through the gaps. It’s a three-dimensional garment.

The Material Reality of a Crochet Button Up Shirt

Let’s talk shop for a second because the yarn matters more than the pattern. Most of the high-quality shirts you’re seeing are made from cotton or cotton-linen blends. Synthetic fibers like acrylic are common in cheaper versions, but they’re a trap. Acrylic doesn't breathe. If you wear a plastic-based crochet button up shirt in 90-degree heat, you are essentially wearing a fashionable greenhouse. You’ll sweat. It’ll stick. It’s a bad time.

Genuine cotton crochet has this incredible ability to feel cool to the touch while still having enough weight to drape beautifully. It doesn't cling to your torso. Instead, it hangs. This "drape" is what separates a shirt that looks like a craft project from a shirt that looks like high fashion. Designers like Emily Adams Bode Aujla—the powerhouse behind Bode—really pioneered this by repurposing vintage domestic textiles. They proved that a boxy, button-down silhouette made from a "homely" technique could feel incredibly masculine and sophisticated.

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Why the "Holes" Aren't a Problem

A lot of people hesitate because they don't want to show too much skin. Fair. But the beauty of the crochet button up shirt is its versatility in layering. You don't have to go full "shirtless under the knit" unless you're at the beach. Throw it over a crisp white ribbed tank top. The contrast between the solid tank and the lattice-work of the crochet adds a depth that a regular button-up just can't match. It’s a texture play.

Spotting the Difference Between Knit and Crochet

This is a hill I will die on: most "crochet" shirts you see in big-box retail stores aren't actually crochet. They're warp-knits designed to look like crochet. Why? Because crochet cannot be done by a machine. True crochet requires a human hand to manipulate the hook and the yarn. If you see a $20 "crochet" shirt at a massive global chain, it was almost certainly made on a specialized knitting machine that mimics the look.

Does it matter? To the purist, yes. To your wallet, maybe. But there’s a soul to a genuine crochet button up shirt. When you see the slight irregularities in a hand-hooked piece, you’re seeing the signature of a maker. Brands like Percival or Corridor often play in the space of "crochet-inspired" knits which are fantastic, but if you find a true crochet piece at a thrift store or from an independent artisan on Etsy, grab it. The structural integrity is usually far superior.

The Maintenance Headache (and how to avoid it)

Look, you can't just toss these in the wash with your jeans. You just can't. The open weave of a crochet button up shirt is a magnet for buttons, zippers, and anything else that can snag. One bad spin cycle and your favorite shirt has a six-inch pulled thread that ruins the silhouette.

  1. Hand wash in cold water. Always.
  2. Use a mild detergent—something like Eucalan or Woolite.
  3. Never, ever hang it to dry. The weight of the wet yarn will pull the shirt out of shape until it’s three sizes too long.
  4. Lay it flat on a towel. Shape it. Let it air dry.

It sounds like a lot of work. It is. But that’s the trade-off for wearing something that isn't a disposable piece of polyester.

Styling Without Looking Like You’re in a Costume

The danger zone for the crochet button up shirt is the "Grandpa on Vacation" look. If you pair it with pleated khakis and socks with sandals, you’ve gone too far. To keep it modern, you need contrast in your fabrics.

Try pairing a heavy-gauge black crochet shirt with some sleek, straight-leg carpenter pants or even a pair of nylon technical shorts. The mix of the "soft" artisan knit with "hard" utility fabrics creates a balance. It feels intentional. Or, go the monochrome route. A cream-colored crochet button up shirt with cream linen trousers is a classic for a reason. It looks expensive. It looks like you have a favorite espresso shop in Rome.

The Rise of the Granny Square

We have to talk about the "granny square" trend within this niche. These are the shirts made of individual multicolored squares stitched together. They’re bold. They’re loud. They’re also incredibly hard to pull off without looking like a 1970s afghan rug. If you’re going for a granny square crochet button up shirt, keep everything else in the outfit dead simple. Let the shirt do the talking. Plain denim. Simple sneakers. No extra accessories.

Real World Durability

People worry these shirts are fragile. In reality, a well-made cotton crochet button up shirt is surprisingly tough. Because the "fabric" is essentially a series of interconnected knots, it has a natural elasticity. It moves with you. It doesn't rip at the seams like a woven shirt might if you reach for something on a high shelf. The main enemy is friction. If you wear a heavy backpack over a crochet shirt all day, the straps will eventually pill or fray the yarn. This is "brunch" wear or "dinner by the coast" wear—not "hiking in the woods" wear.

Where the Trend is Heading

In 2026, we’re seeing a shift away from the super-open, "see-through" lace styles toward tighter, more geometric patterns. Think "filet crochet" that creates subtle images or textures within the fabric without being quite so revealing. There’s also a big move toward "mixed media" shirts—maybe the body is a standard linen weave but the sleeves and collar are crochet. It’s a way to get the vibe without committing to the full transparency.

High-end designers are also experimenting with unconventional materials. Raffia, silk cord, and even recycled plastic cord are being worked into the crochet button up shirt format. It’s pushing the boundaries of what we consider "knitwear."

Getting the Fit Right

Size down. Usually. Because crochet stretches and "settles" as you wear it, a shirt that fits perfectly in the store might feel a bit baggy after two hours of wear. You want the shoulder seams to sit exactly on your shoulders. If they droop, the whole shirt starts to look sloppy rather than relaxed. A boxy cut is fine, but it should be a structured boxy cut.


Actionable Next Steps for Your Wardrobe

If you're ready to pull the trigger on a crochet button up shirt, don't just buy the first one you see on a fast-fashion site. Start by checking the fiber content; if it isn't at least 80% natural fiber (cotton, linen, silk), put it back. You’ll regret the breathability issues later.

Next, decide on your "opacity comfort level." If you're new to the look, search for "tight gauge" or "micro-crochet" which offers the texture without the "peek-a-boo" effect. For those looking to invest, keep an eye on end-of-season sales from mid-tier brands like Abercrombie (who have surprisingly stepped up their knit game) or Percival.

Finally, invest in a "drying rack" if you don't have one. You cannot treat these shirts like t-shirts. If you take care of the yarn, a good crochet piece will outlast almost every other shirt in your closet because it’s fundamentally built from a series of knots that don't easily unravel. Own the texture, embrace the airflow, and stop worrying about looking like a doily. It’s a good look.