You walk into a small storefront in San Francisco’s Fillmore District and you expect to hear a sermon. Maybe a choir. Instead, you get hit with the raw, wailing, transcendental squawk of a tenor saxophone. It’s loud. It’s sweaty. It is the Church of Saint John Coltrane, and honestly, it is probably nothing like the "jazz church" you’re imagining in your head.
Most people think this is just a group of music fans who really, really like A Love Supreme. They think it’s a gimmick or a quirky tourist trap for hipsters who collect vinyl. They're wrong. This is a legitimate African Orthodox Church. It has been around for over 50 years. It has survived city-wide gentrification, crippling rent hikes, and the death of its literal and figurative inspiration.
It’s about God. It just so happens that for these folks, God speaks through a 1960s avant-garde jazz musician.
The Night Everything Changed at the Jazz Workshop
To understand why a church would canonize a jazz musician, you have to look at 1965. John Coltrane was playing at the Jazz Workshop in San Francisco. In the audience sat Franzo King and his wife, Marina.
King wasn't just a fan. He described the experience as a "sound baptism." He didn’t just hear notes; he felt a spiritual realignment. At the time, Coltrane was moving away from the "Giant Steps" era of technical perfection and into something much more visceral and religious. He had kicked a heroin addiction years prior and dedicated his life to being a "force for good."
When Coltrane died in 1967, the Kings didn't just mourn. They started a foundation. They started a way of life. By 1971, the Yardbird Temple was born (originally named after Charlie Parker, before they realized Coltrane was the true spiritual North Star of their mission).
Eventually, they joined the African Orthodox Church, which meant their "Saint John" had to be officially recognized within a broader ecclesiastical framework. This isn't some loosey-goosey DIY religion. They have vestments. They have liturgy. They have an altar.
But the altar has a painting of Coltrane holding a saxophone with flames coming out of the bell.
It’s Not About Worshiping a Man
One of the biggest misconceptions that keeps the Church of Saint John Coltrane in the "weird news" cycle is the idea that they worship John Coltrane the human being.
They don’t.
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Archbishop Franzo King is very clear about this: they worship God through the music and the message of Coltrane. They see Coltrane as a "step-iterator," a medium who mapped out a path to the divine through sound. If you’ve ever listened to the four parts of A Love Supreme—Acknowledgment, Resolution, Pursuance, and Psalm—you know it’s structured like a prayer. The church simply takes that literally.
During a typical Sunday service, which can last three hours or more, the liturgy is punctuated by "Sound Meditations." The ministers pick up instruments. The congregants pick up shakers. It becomes a dense, polyrhythmic jam session that aims for "ascension."
It’s loud.
Sometimes it’s dissonant.
If you’re looking for a quiet place to reflect, this isn't it. This is a place where you're supposed to lose your ego in the noise.
Survival in a Changing San Francisco
The Church of Saint John Coltrane has been evicted more times than most people have moved houses. They started in the Fillmore, which was the "Harlem of the West." Then the Redevelopment Agency tore the neighborhood apart. They moved to Divisadero Street. Then the rent went from reasonable to "Silicon Valley insane."
In 2016, they were nearly homeless. They faced a massive legal battle with a landlord who wanted them out to make room for higher-paying tenants. It looked like the end.
But the community rallied. They moved to a temporary space within St. Cyprian’s Episcopal Church on Turk Street. They are currently operating out of a space on Fillmore Street again, returning to their roots. But it's a struggle. Every year, the question is: how does a small, radical, Black-led spiritual institution survive in a city that is increasingly becoming a playground for tech billionaires?
The answer is resilience. And maybe a bit of that Coltrane-style stubbornness.
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The Iconography and the Music
If you visit, the first thing you’ll notice is the art. The icons are painted by Mark Doox (formerly deacon Mark Dukes). They are stunning. They use the traditional Byzantine style—gold leaf, heavy lines, elongated features—but the subjects are Black.
In these paintings, Coltrane is often depicted with a halo, carrying his saxophone, which is frequently engulfed in "the fire of the Holy Spirit."
The music is the actual scripture. The church believes that "A Love Supreme" is a global anthem for peace that transcends denominations. They’ve had visitors from all over the world: Buddhist monks, Catholic priests, atheists who just love jazz. Everyone finds something in the frequency.
Wait, is it actually good music?
Yes. The musicians in the church are legit. They aren't just hobbyists. They understand the complex modal theory that Coltrane was obsessed with. They understand the math of the music. But more importantly, they understand the intent.
What People Get Wrong About "Saint John"
Let’s talk about the "Saint" part. The African Orthodox Church officially canonized John Coltrane as a saint in 1982. This wasn't some joke. It was a formal recognition of his life’s work as a spiritual journey.
People often get hung up on Coltrane’s personal flaws. He struggled with drugs early in his career. He was a human man with human problems. The church doesn't ignore that. In fact, his struggle is part of the appeal. It’s a story of redemption. It’s about a man who was in the depths of despair and used music to climb out and reach for something higher.
That’s a universal story.
It’s also not a "cult." There’s no charismatic leader taking everyone’s money and hiding in a compound. Archbishop King and Mother Marina King have spent decades living modestly, focused entirely on the community and the preservation of this specific spiritual lineage.
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Why You Should Care (Even if You Hate Jazz)
You might be thinking, "I don't even like saxophone solos, why does this matter?"
It matters because the Church of Saint John Coltrane is one of the last remaining bastions of authentic, radical San Francisco culture. It represents a time when art and spirituality weren't separate things. It’s a reminder that music can be more than background noise for your commute or something you play while doing the dishes.
It can be a transformative experience.
In a world that feels increasingly fragmented and cynical, there is something deeply moving about a group of people gathering every week to blow horns and beat drums in the name of "Universal Consciousness."
How to Visit and What to Expect
If you’re planning to attend a service, keep a few things in mind. This isn't a museum. It's a living, breathing church.
- Be Respectful: It’s okay to be a curious observer, but remember people are there to pray.
- Bring Your Instrument: Sometimes they allow "community participation" during the later stages of the service. If you can play, and you can play with heart, you might be invited to join the "meditation."
- Don't Expect a Performance: It’s a service, not a concert. There might be long periods of reading or preaching.
- Support the Mission: They survive on donations. If the music moves you, drop something in the plate.
The church is located at 2097 Turk St (inside St. Cyprian’s) or check their official site for current Fillmore Street pop-up hours, as they are often in transition.
Actionable Next Steps for the Curious
If you want to understand the vibe before you go, don't just read about it. Experience the source material.
- Listen to 'A Love Supreme' in one sitting. No phone. No distractions. Follow the liner notes. Coltrane wrote a poem for the final movement, and if you listen closely to the saxophone in "Psalm," he is actually "reciting" the words of the poem through his horn.
- Watch the documentary 'Chasing Trane.' It gives a great overview of his spiritual evolution.
- Visit the church’s digital archives. They have spent years documenting the intersection of social justice and jazz.
- Support local arts in the Fillmore. The neighborhood is trying to reclaim its status as a jazz hub; visiting places like the Church of Saint John Coltrane helps keep that history alive.
The Church of Saint John Coltrane isn't just a relic of the 60s. It’s a living testament to the idea that the "divine" doesn't have to be found in old books alone. It can be found in a rhythm, a melody, and the breath of a man who decided to play his heart out until he touched the sky.
Whether you call it jazz or you call it Jesus, the feeling in that room is undeniable. It's loud, it's messy, and it's beautiful. Just like life.