You’re walking through a crowded, somewhat dusty neighborhood in Alexandria, Egypt. It feels normal. Then, you step into a circular building, look down a massive spiral staircase, and realize you’re about to descend into a three-story underground labyrinth that shouldn’t exist. This is Kom El Shoqafa. It wasn't found by an archaeologist with a map. In 1900, a donkey fell through a hole in the ground. That’s it. One minute a donkey is walking, the next it’s the first visitor to a massive Roman-era burial complex that had been sealed for centuries.
Honesty time: most people rush to the Pyramids and skip Alexandria. That’s a mistake.
The Weird Mashup of Gods and Cultures
What makes the Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa so trippy is the art. It’s not just "Egyptian" or "Roman." It’s both. Imagine a Roman soldier carved into a wall, but he’s standing in a stiff, traditional Egyptian pose. Or look at the Anubis statue near the main tomb. Usually, Anubis is the jackal-headed god of the afterlife. Here? He’s wearing a Roman legionnaire’s uniform and holding a spear. It’s basically the ancient world's version of a cultural remix.
This happened because Alexandria was the ultimate melting pot. By the 2nd century AD, when this place was in its prime, the people living here were a confusing mix of Greek, Roman, and Egyptian. They didn't want to pick just one religion. They figured, "Hey, if I'm heading to the afterlife, I might as well have every god on my side."
The Hall of Caracalla: A Dark History
There is a room here called the Hall of Caracalla. It sounds fancy. It isn't.
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Local legends and some historical accounts link this chamber to a mass burial of young men and horses. The story goes that the Roman Emperor Caracalla, who was notoriously unstable, ordered a massacre in Alexandria in 215 AD. He was offended by some satires the citizens wrote about him. While archaeologists debate the exact timeline of the bones found here, the sheer volume of skeletal remains discovered in this specific section adds a grim weight to the atmosphere. It’s tight. It’s dark. You can feel the history pressing in on you.
How the Engineering Actually Works
The sheer scale of the Kom El Shoqafa Alexandria site is mind-blowing when you consider they didn't have power tools. We’re talking about a structure carved directly into the solid bedrock.
The spiral staircase is the heart of the design. It was built around a central shaft used to lower the bodies of the deceased using ropes. This kept the mourners from having to carry heavy stone sarcophagi down slippery steps. If you look closely at the steps, they are shallower at the top and get deeper as you go down. This was intentional. It helped people adjust to the dim light and the change in depth.
The second level is the "tourist" favorite. This is where the main tomb is located, guarded by two serpents wearing the double crown of Egypt. Behind them, there are Medusa heads. It’s a literal protective ward. The third level? You can’t even go there most of the time. It’s flooded. Subsoil water from the nearby Mediterranean has claimed the bottom floor, turning it into a dark, watery mystery that engineers are still trying to pump out without collapsing the whole thing.
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What Most Guides Get Wrong About the "Mound of Shards"
The name "Kom El Shoqafa" literally means "Mound of Shards."
Most people think this refers to broken construction materials. Nope. It’s actually about lunch. When families came to visit their dead relatives, they would bring food and wine. They’d have a feast in the Triclinium—a massive banquet hall carved right into the rock. Because it was considered bad luck to take "polluted" dishes back home from a tomb, they would smash all their terracotta plates and jars before leaving. Over hundreds of years, these broken bits piled up into a literal mountain of pottery.
You're literally walking on the remnants of thousands of ancient family dinners.
Planning the Descent: Real Talk for Travelers
If you’re going to Kom El Shoqafa, don’t just show up at noon in the middle of summer. It’s underground, sure, but it’s humid. Like, "my shirt is sticking to my back" humid. The air down there is heavy with the smell of damp stone and centuries of silence.
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- Footwear matters. The ground is uneven and sometimes slick from the moisture. Wear sneakers, not flip-flops.
- The lighting is moody. It’s great for atmosphere, but if you’re trying to see the fine details of the carvings, bring a small flashlight or use your phone’s light.
- Don't ignore the surroundings. The neighborhood of Karmouz surrounding the catacombs is one of the oldest in the city. It’s vibrant, loud, and authentic. Grab some street food nearby after you surface.
Beyond the Main Tomb
Don't spend all your time in the central chamber. Wander into the side galleries. There are hundreds of loculi—small rectangular slots cut into the walls. This is where the "average" people were buried. While the rich had the ornate sarcophagi, the middle class filled the walls. It’s a haunting reminder of just how massive the population of Roman Alexandria really was.
Why This Place Matters in 2026
We live in a world where everything is categorized and labeled. This place defies that. It’s a physical manifestation of what happens when different cultures live together for so long that they start to bleed into one another. It’s messy. It’s beautiful. It’s a bit scary.
When you stand in the main chamber of Kom El Shoqafa Alexandria, you aren't just looking at a grave. You're looking at a civilization trying to make sense of death by grabbing every bit of tradition they could find. It’s the most human place in Egypt.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit:
- Arrive Early: The site opens at 9:00 AM. Be there at 8:45 AM. Having the central tomb to yourself for even five minutes before the tour buses arrive is a totally different experience.
- Combine with Pompey’s Pillar: It’s a short walk away. Most people do both in one morning. If you see the pillar first, you get the "above ground" context before diving into the "below ground" reality.
- Hire a Local Guide at the Gate: While I’m all for solo exploring, the nuances of the carvings—like identifying which god is which in the "remix" style—are much easier with someone who knows the specific mythology of the 2nd century.
- Photography Rules: Check the current status of camera tickets. Usually, phone photography is okay, but professional rigs require a permit.
- Respect the Humidity: If you have respiratory issues, be aware that the lower levels can feel quite "tight." Take it slow on the climb back up. Those stairs are no joke.
The Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa are a reminder that history isn't always found by experts with brushes. Sometimes, it takes a falling donkey to remind us that there are entire worlds right beneath our feet, waiting for the light to hit them again.