You’re driving through the quiet, canopy-lined streets of Coral Gables when it hits you. That massive, 315-foot copper-clad tower just sort of looms over the trees like something out of a dream—or a Hitchcock film. It’s the Biltmore Coral Gables. Honestly, if you haven’t seen it in person, pictures don't really do the scale justice. It’s not just a hotel; it’s a time capsule that somehow survived the boom, the bust, a world war, and several decades of being a literal hospital.
Most people think of Miami and imagine neon lights on Ocean Drive or the glass skyscrapers of Brickell. But the Biltmore is different. It’s old-world. It’s Mediterranean Revival on a scale that feels almost arrogant. George Merrick, the guy who basically willed Coral Gables into existence, wanted this to be the "Cathedral of Hotels." He succeeded. Since opening in 1926, it has been the center of gravity for South Florida high society, and even if you aren't staying in a suite, the place just vibrates with history.
The Pool That Changed Everything
Let’s talk about the pool first because it’s basically the main character of the property. For a long time, this was actually the largest pool in the entire world. It holds about 600,000 gallons of water. That is a terrifying amount of chlorine. Back in the 1920s and 30s, this wasn't just for swimming; it was a stage.
You’ve probably heard stories about the synchronized swimming shows and the high-dive acts. Johnny Weissmuller, before he became the most famous Tarzan on the silver screen, was a swimming instructor here. He broke world records in this water. Think about that for a second. You can go do a mediocre breaststroke in the same spot where an Olympic legend once trained. It’s kind of wild.
The pool area is surrounded by these massive Romanesque statues and private cabanas. It feels like you’re on a movie set. Because, well, it often is. But the vibe isn't "modern luxury resort" with loud EDM and overpriced cocktails. It’s more like "1930s movie star hiding from the paparazzi." It’s quiet. It’s expansive. You feel small in it, but in a good way.
Ghost Stories and the Fatty Walsh Incident
Now, you can’t talk about the Biltmore Coral Gables without getting into the weird stuff. It’s widely considered one of the most haunted places in Florida. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, the history of the 13th floor is objectively dark.
During Prohibition, the hotel had a speakeasy. Because of course it did. On March 3, 1929, a mobster named Thomas "Fatty" Walsh was shot and killed during a gambling dispute on that 13th floor. He was a bodyguard for Arthur Flegenheimer (better known as Dutch Schultz). The guy who shot him, Edward Wilson, basically vanished. He was never caught.
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People claim Fatty still hangs around. Guests have reported the smell of cigar smoke in the elevators when nobody is smoking. Doors open and close. The 13th floor was sealed off for years. Even today, there’s a distinct energy in those hallways. It’s not necessarily scary, but it’s heavy.
From Luxury to the VA Hospital
Here is a fact that surprises people: for over 20 years, this wasn't a hotel at all. When World War II hit, the government decided they needed a massive hospital. They converted the entire Biltmore into the Army Air Forces Regional Hospital. They covered up the marble floors with linoleum. They painted over the ornate frescos with institutional green paint. It’s almost painful to think about.
After the war, it became a VA Hospital and eventually the first home of the University of Miami’s medical school. Imagine being a medical student in the 1950s and having your anatomy lab in a former luxury ballroom.
The hotel sat abandoned for a chunk of the 70s. It was a ruin. Locals used to sneak in to explore the decaying grand halls. It’s a miracle it wasn't torn down. It took a massive $55 million restoration in the 1980s to bring it back from the dead. That’s why everything looks so pristine now—it’s a recreation of the original 1926 glory, but it was a long, dusty road to get there.
The Golf Course and the Merrick Legacy
If you aren't into ghosts or giant pools, you’re probably there for the golf. The Biltmore Golf Club is a Donald Ross-designed masterpiece. Ross is basically the godfather of American golf course architecture. He designed it in 1925, and while it has been renovated (most recently by Brian Silva in 2018), it still retains that classic "Golden Age" feel.
The course is challenging. It’s not just about distance; it’s about those tricky Ross greens. If you miss on the wrong side, you’re looking at a very long day.
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- The par-71 layout stretches over 7,100 yards.
- It’s the home of the Junior Orange Bowl International Golf Championship.
- Tiger Woods and Sergio Garcia played here as kids.
It’s one of the few places where you can play a world-class course that feels integrated into the city itself. You see the hotel tower from almost every hole. It acts as a permanent North Star.
Why the Sunday Brunch is a Religious Experience
We need to address the brunch. It’s expensive. It’s decadent. It’s arguably the most famous meal in Miami-Dade County. They hold it in the courtyard, and it’s basically a parade of every luxury food imaginable. Caviar, carved meats, a wall of desserts—it’s borderline absurd.
But it’s not just about the food. It’s the ritual. Families have been coming here for generations. You see grandmothers who remember the hotel from the 40s sitting with grandkids who are more interested in their phones. It’s one of those rare places in Miami that feels truly multi-generational.
Architecture That Actually Matters
The architect, Leonard Schultze, along with S. Fullerton Weaver, also designed the Waldorf Astoria in New York. You can see the DNA. The Biltmore is essentially a Spanish castle dropped into the Florida Everglades. The hand-painted joists in the lobby, the vaulted ceilings, the 25-foot columns—it’s all meant to overwhelm you.
Most modern hotels are built to be "efficient." They have low ceilings and maximize every square inch for profit. The Biltmore is the opposite. It wastes space beautifully. There are massive corridors and grand halls that serve no purpose other than to look magnificent. That’s the luxury of the 1920s. It was about grand gestures.
The Reality of Staying There Today
Kinda funny thing about the Biltmore: it’s not a "modern" hotel in the way a Ritz-Carlton or a Four Seasons is. If you’re looking for high-tech smart rooms with iPads that control the curtains, you might be disappointed. The rooms are nice, sure, but they are classic. The walls are thick. The windows are smaller than modern floor-to-ceiling glass.
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You stay here for the atmosphere. You stay here because you want to feel like you’re in a different era. The service is formal. It’s the kind of place where people actually dress up for dinner at Palme d'Or.
What You Should Actually Do There
If you're visiting or even if you live in Miami and just want a "staycation," don't just sit in your room.
- Take the history tour. They usually have a local historian who does a tour on Sunday afternoons. It's free and it’s where you get the real dirt on the mobsters and the hospital days.
- Go to the 19th Hole for a burger. You don't have to spend $200 on dinner. The sports bar overlooking the golf course is actually pretty chill and surprisingly affordable for such a fancy property.
- Walk the grounds at night. The tower is lit up, and the shadows in the courtyard are something else. It’s peaceful in a way that the rest of Miami just isn't.
The Legacy of Coral Gables’ Crown Jewel
The Biltmore Coral Gables is a survivor. It survived the Great Hurricane of 1926 just months after opening. It survived the Great Depression which bankrupted George Merrick. It survived decades of being an Army hospital.
It’s a reminder that Miami actually has a soul beyond the beach and the clubs. There is a layer of grit and glamour underneath all that stucco. When you walk through those front doors, you’re stepping into a story that is still being written. Whether you’re there to play 18 holes, eat your weight in crab legs, or hunt for Fatty Walsh’s ghost, you’re part of that narrative now.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
To get the most out of the Biltmore without feeling like a lost tourist, keep these points in mind:
- Book tea service in advance. It’s held in the lobby and fills up weeks ahead of time. It’s the best way to soak in the architecture without staying overnight.
- Check the event calendar. The Biltmore hosts a lot of community events, from culinary academies to cigar nights on the terrace.
- Park yourself by the pool early. If you are a guest, those cabanas go fast, and the sun hits the pool area perfectly in the mid-morning.
- Explore the neighborhood. Coral Gables is a "planned community." Take a walk out the front entrance and look at the "Villages"—small clusters of homes built in different architectural styles (French Country, Dutch South African, etc.) that Merrick commissioned to give the area variety.
The Biltmore isn't just a building; it's the anchor of the "City Beautiful." It’s worth the detour from the beach. Just don't blame me if you start smelling cigar smoke in the elevator.