The sneaker world is fickle. One day everyone is losing their minds over a chunky dad shoe, and the next, we’re all back to slim-profile terrace trainers like nothing happened. But if you look at the timeline of hype, one specific pairing consistently breaks the cycle. I'm talking about the Bathing Ape Adidas Superstar. It’s not just a shoe; it’s basically the blueprint for how a high-end streetwear label should handle a global heritage brand.
Back in 2003, when the "The Respect is Mutual" campaign first dropped, the sneaker landscape was unrecognizable. You couldn't just open an app and get what you wanted. You had to know someone, or you had to be in Tokyo or New York. This partnership between Nigo’s A Bathing Ape (BAPE) and Adidas didn't just move units. It shifted the culture. It took the Shell Toe—a shoe born on basketball courts and cemented by Run-D.M.C.—and draped it in the playful, aggressive aesthetic of Ura-Harajuku.
Honestly, it shouldn't have worked as well as it did. Taking a masterpiece like the Superstar and messing with it is risky. But BAPE didn't just slap a logo on it. They integrated the DNA.
The Evolution of the BAPE Adidas Superstar
The original 2003 release is the stuff of legends. We saw the "Super Ape Star." It came in a few flavors, but the one that sticks in everyone's brain is the black and white with that unmistakable BAPE camo on the insoles and the subtle "Go Ape!" branding. It was restrained. It was cool. It felt like an "if you know, you know" handshake between two giants.
Then things got louder.
As the years rolled by, we saw the introduction of the "B-Side" and eventually the massive 50th-anniversary celebrations of the Superstar. The 2021 and 2022 drops really leaned into the asymmetry that fans love. You’d have the Adidas three stripes on one side and the BAPE STA star logo on the other. It’s a polarizing design choice. Some purists hate it. They think it’s messy. But for everyone else? It represents the duality of the collab. It’s a literal 50/50 split of identity.
The leather quality on these usually sits a notch above your standard GR (general release) Superstars. You're getting softer uppers and often a slightly aged, "off-white" tint to the shell toe and midsole, which gives it that vintage "found in a basement in Shibuya" vibe.
Why the Camo Matters
You can't talk about BAPE without talking about ABC Camo. It’s the visual language of the brand. When applied to the Bathing Ape Adidas Superstar, it transforms the silhouette. We’ve seen full camo uppers in green, blue, and pink.
The green camo is the flagship. It’s the most recognizable. When you see that pattern against the white leather and the gold foil branding, it screams early 2000s streetwear. It’s nostalgic but somehow doesn't feel dated. That’s a hard line to walk. Most things from 2003 look ridiculous now (look at your old photos, I promise they do), but a pair of Camo Superstars still looks like it belongs in 2026.
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Spotting the Real Deal in a Sea of Reps
Let’s be real for a second. Because these are so high-profile, the market is flooded with fakes. If you’re hunting for a pair on the secondary market—StockX, GOAT, or maybe a Japanese auction site—you have to be sharp.
First off, check the "Shell Toe." On a legitimate Adidas Superstar, the texture is distinct. It’s a series of cross-hatched lines that shouldn't look "melted" or overly glossy. On many BAPE reps, the rubber feels cheap and looks too shiny.
The gold foil is another dead giveaway. On authentic pairs, the gold leaf branding (the "BAPE STA" and "Adidas" logos) is crisp. It’s stamped deep into the leather. If the text looks like it’s just floating on the surface or if the font looks slightly "skinny," walk away.
Also, look at the heel tab. The BAPE head logo should be perfectly centered and embossed with precision. I’ve seen fakes where the ape looks like it’s having a mid-life crisis. It’s slightly lopsided or the facial features are blurred.
- Materials: Authentic pairs use premium tumbled or smooth leather. If it smells like heavy chemicals, it's a red flag.
- The Box: Don't ignore the packaging. BAPE x Adidas boxes are usually custom. They should feature the co-branded camo patterns and the labels should be perfectly aligned.
- Stitching: Look at the "V" stitching near the lace eyelets. It should be consistent. No loose threads. No double-stitching where there shouldn't be.
The Cultural Weight of the Collaboration
Why do we still care?
It’s about Nigo. It’s about the fact that Nigo was a DJ, a stylist, and a curator before he was a "designer" in the traditional sense. He understood that the Superstar was a sacred object in hip-hop. By touching it, he wasn't just making a shoe; he was claiming a seat at the table.
When you wear a pair of Bathing Ape Adidas Superstars, you’re wearing a piece of history that connects New York b-boy culture to Tokyo's Harajuku scene. It’s a bridge. It represents a time when streetwear felt more like a secret society and less like a corporate algorithm.
The 80s-inspired silhouette of the Superstar is inherently "blocky." It’s wide. It’s sturdy. This fits the BAPE aesthetic perfectly. BAPE has always favored slightly oversized, baggy silhouettes—think shark hoodies and wide-leg denim. The Superstar anchors that look in a way a slim Gazelle or a Samba just can't. It provides the visual weight needed to balance out a loud outfit.
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Sizing and Comfort: What You Need to Know
Superstars generally run a bit large. Most people find that going down half a size from their standard Nike or New Balance size is the move.
If you have wide feet, stick to your true size. The shell toe doesn't stretch. Unlike an all-leather toe box that will eventually mold to your foot, that rubber cap is unforgiving. If your toes are cramped on day one, they will be cramped on day 100.
Comfort-wise? It’s an 80s basketball shoe. Don't expect Boost-level squishiness. It’s firm. It’s stable. It’s great for walking around a city all day, but it’s not a performance shoe by modern standards. You’re buying this for the look and the heritage, not to run a marathon.
How to Style Them Without Looking Like a 2012 Hypebeast
This is where people trip up. It is very easy to look like a walking advertisement if you aren't careful.
If you’re rocking the full camo Bathing Ape Adidas Superstar, keep the rest of your fit muted. Think raw denim or heavy-duty olive chinos. A simple grey hoodie or a crisp white tee. Let the shoes do the heavy lifting.
If you have the more subtle black and white pairs, you can play around more. They work surprisingly well with slightly more "adult" wardrobes. I’ve seen people pull them off with pleated trousers and a knit polo. It breaks up the formality and adds a bit of edge.
Avoid wearing a BAPE shark hoodie, BAPE sweatpants, and BAPE shoes all at once. Unless you’re a 16-year-old influencer at a sneaker convention, it’s just too much. Contrast is your friend.
The Future of the Partnership
Is there fatigue? Maybe a little. We’ve seen a lot of BAPE x Adidas over the last two decades. We’ve had the Forum, the Superstar, the Stan Smith, and even the Damian Lillard basketball shoes.
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But the Superstar remains the crown jewel. Every time they revisit it, the secondary market prices spike. People still want that shell toe. It’s a design that has survived the transition from the analog era to the digital age.
What’s interesting is how the collab is evolving. We’re seeing more sustainable materials being discussed and new color palettes that move away from the traditional "woodland" camo. We're seeing experimentations with texture—suede, patent leather, and even canvas.
The Collector's Perspective
If you’re buying these as an investment, look for the 2003 originals or the very limited 80s-style "Super Ape Star" releases. Those are the grails. But if you’re buying them to actually wear, the 2021-2024 releases are fantastic because the construction is modern and they are much easier to find in deadstock condition.
Rubber soles on older Superstars can "bloom" (turn yellow) or even crack if they aren't stored properly. If you're buying a pair that's 20 years old, be prepared for the possibility that they might crumble if you actually try to walk in them. For daily wear, stick to the recent drops.
Actionable Steps for Your Next Purchase
If you're ready to pull the trigger on a pair of Bathing Ape Adidas Superstars, don't just rush into the first listing you see. The price variance is wild.
- Compare Prices Across Platforms: Check StockX, but then look at Rakuten or Yahoo! Auctions Japan using a proxy service like Buyee. You can often find BAPE items significantly cheaper directly from the Japanese market, even after shipping fees.
- Verify the Silhouette: Ensure you're looking at the "Superstar 80s" version if you want the vintage shape. The "80s" model has a lower profile and a more streamlined shell toe compared to the bulkier modern Superstar.
- Condition Check: If buying used, pay close attention to the shell toe's color. If it’s overly yellowed compared to the midsole, it might have been exposed to too much UV light, which makes the rubber brittle.
- Lace Swap: Many BAPE Superstars come with multiple sets of laces (sometimes with "BAPE" printed on the aglets). If the seller doesn't have the extra laces, use that as leverage to negotiate the price down.
- Protect the Leather: Since these often use premium leathers, hit them with a water and stain repellent before your first wear. The "shell toe" is easy to clean, but the camo-printed leather can be tricky if it gets stained.
Streetwear trends come and go, but the Bathing Ape Adidas Superstar has earned its place as a permanent fixture. It’s a masterclass in collaboration that feels authentic to both brands' histories. Whether you’re a die-hard BAPE head or just someone who appreciates a classic sneaker with a twist, this is one of those pairs that belongs in any serious rotation. It’s loud, it’s iconic, and honestly, it’s just fun to wear.
No matter how many new "collabs of the year" drop, the Ape always finds its way back to the top of the pile. Keep your eyes on the release calendars; these don't stay on shelves for long, and for good reason.