Walk into the lobby of the Arlington Resort & Spa and the first thing you notice isn't the grand staircase or the massive chandeliers. It’s the smell. Not a bad smell—just the unmistakable scent of history, old wood, and maybe a faint, metallic hint of thermal water lingering in the air. It’s heavy.
If you're expecting a sterile, ultra-modern Marriott experience where every light switch is a touch screen, you’re in the wrong place. The Arlington is a different beast entirely. It’s a massive, twin-towered Mediterranean-style landmark that has anchored the north end of Central Avenue in Hot Springs, Arkansas, since 1924. Honestly, it’s kind of a miracle it’s still standing in such a grand capacity.
People call it the "Grand Old Lady." It’s been through fires—three versions of the hotel have existed—and seen the rise and fall of illegal gambling, the era of Al Capone, and the slow transformation of Hot Springs from a medical destination to a kitschy, cool national park town.
The Al Capone Factor and What Most People Get Wrong
You can’t talk about the Arlington Resort & Spa without talking about gangsters. It’s basically required by law at this point. But most people think Al Capone just "stayed" here. It was way more than that. He basically ran his operations out of Room 443.
The fourth floor was his territory. He liked it because he could look out the window and see the Southern Club across the street, which was one of the premier gambling halls of the time. When you walk those hallways today, they feel incredibly wide. That wasn't just for luxury; it was so two ladies in massive Victorian dresses could pass each other without bumping hoops. Or, depending on which local historian you ask, so bodyguards had a clear line of sight.
The "Capone Suite" is still a thing you can book. It’s got a heavy wooden door and a vibe that feels like 1930. But don't expect it to be a museum. It’s a hotel room. A slightly spooky, very expensive hotel room. Some guests swear they smell cigar smoke when no one is around.
The Reality of the Thermal Waters
The "Spa" part of the name isn't just marketing fluff. It’s the whole reason the building exists. Hot Springs is the only city in the U.S. that is literally built around a National Park, and the Arlington has its own federal water rights.
Basically, the water is pumped directly from the hot springs into the hotel’s bathhouse.
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How the Bathing Ritual Actually Works
If you’ve never done a traditional Hot Springs bath, it’s a weird, intense, and surprisingly relaxing experience. You don't just jump in a tub.
- You start with a soak in a deep tub of thermal water (usually around 100°F to 102°F).
- An attendant (who has probably worked there for 30 years) wraps you in hot, wet towels.
- You spend time in a steam cabinet that looks like a vintage torture device.
- Finally, you get a massage.
It’s not a "spa day" in the sense of cucumbers on your eyes and whale music. It’s clinical. It’s old-school. It’s exactly how people treated their ailments a century ago. It’s also one of the few places where you can still get the "Arlington Signature" treatment, which hasn't changed much since your grandparents were kids.
Why the Architecture Matters (and the Maintenance Struggle)
The current building was designed by Mann and Stern. It’s a massive example of Spanish Colonial Revival. Look at the roof—those green tiles are iconic.
But let’s be real for a second. Maintaining a building this size, built in the 1920s, with 478 rooms, is a nightmare. Some parts of the hotel feel incredibly polished and majestic. Other corners might show some peeling paint or a carpet that’s seen better days. That’s the trade-off. You’re trading modern perfection for genuine character.
The Crystal Ballroom is still a showstopper. It’s got those floor-to-ceiling windows and massive chandeliers. If you’re lucky enough to be there during a gala or a New Year’s Eve party, you’ll see the hotel at its best. It feels like a movie set.
The Famous Guests You Probably Forgot
The Arlington wasn't just for mobsters.
- Babe Ruth used to haunt the lobby during spring training.
- Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed here.
- Bill Clinton is a regular fixture, given he grew up just down the road.
The hotel’s registry is basically a "Who's Who" of the 20th century. Every US President from the early 1900s through the mid-century likely walked across those lobby tiles.
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The Mountain Valley Spring Water Connection
You'll notice everyone in the lobby is drinking out of green glass bottles. That’s Mountain Valley Spring Water. The company's headquarters is just a few blocks away. The Arlington and Mountain Valley are sort of the twin pillars of Hot Springs.
Pro tip: Don't buy the bottled stuff. There are public fountains all over town where you can fill up jugs of the same thermal or spring water for free. It’s a local tradition. You’ll see people lined up with five-gallon jugs at the fountains on Central Avenue.
Navigating the "Haunted" Reputation
Is the Arlington Resort & Spa haunted? If you ask the staff, you’ll get a variety of answers ranging from a polite "no" to a very detailed story about a woman in a blue dress on the seventh floor.
The hotel doesn't lean into the "ghost tour" vibe as much as some other historic hotels, which honestly makes it more believable. Most of the stories center around the 4th and 7th floors. Whether it's ghosts or just the sound of a 100-year-old building settling under its own weight, the atmosphere at 2:00 AM is definitely... evocative.
Getting the Most Out of Your Stay
If you’re planning a trip, don’t just stay in your room. The Arlington is a social building.
The Lobby Bar is one of the best spots in the state for people-watching. On a Friday night, you’ll have a mix of bikers in town for a rally, high-society folks in tuxedos for a wedding, and hikers who just came off the Sunset Trail. It’s a weird, beautiful cross-section of humanity.
Practical Advice for the Modern Traveler
- Parking: It’s a pain. Use the valet or be prepared to walk from the parking garage.
- The Pool: It’s located on a terrace on the side of the mountain. It’s one of the coolest pool layouts in the South.
- Room Choice: Ask for a room facing the park. The views of Bathhouse Row are worth the extra cost.
The Future of the Landmark
There’s always talk about renovations. In recent years, there has been a push to modernize the electrical and plumbing systems while keeping the historic "bones" intact. It's a delicate balance. If they change too much, it loses the soul that makes it the Arlington.
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The city of Hot Springs is currently undergoing a massive revitalization. The other bathhouses on the row, like the Quapaw and the Fordyce, have been turned into modern spas or museums. The Arlington remains the last "living" giant of that era that still functions as a full-scale resort.
Steps to Take Before You Book
To truly experience what the Arlington Resort & Spa offers, you need to plan beyond just a room reservation.
First, check the local event calendar. If there’s a horse racing season at Oaklawn (usually January through May), the hotel will be packed and the energy will be electric. If you want quiet, avoid these months.
Second, book your bathhouse appointments at least two weeks in advance. They fill up fast, especially on weekends. You don't want to show up at the "Grand Old Lady" and realize you can't even get into the water.
Third, pack for two different worlds. Bring hiking boots for the National Park trails that start literally behind the hotel, but bring something decent for dinner. The Arlington still feels like a place where dressing up is respected, even if it’s no longer required.
Finally, take the time to walk the stairs instead of the elevator at least once. Look at the brass fittings and the detail in the woodwork. You’re walking through a piece of American history that, despite all the odds and the passage of time, refused to be torn down. It’s not just a hotel; it’s the heartbeat of the Ouachita Mountains.
Actionable Takeaway
To experience the Arlington properly, start by visiting the Fordyce Bathhouse Museum across the street first. It gives you the "before" picture of how these places looked in their prime. Then, walk back to the Arlington and book a traditional Tub Bath. Seeing the museum first makes you appreciate the fact that the Arlington is still a living, breathing operation. Skip the standard "modern" massage and opt for the "Arlington Pack and Massage" to get the authentic 1920s hydrotherapy experience. It's the only way to understand why this place has survived for a century.