Walk up to the corner of 73rd and Broadway and look up. If you feel like you’ve suddenly been transported to a hallucinatory version of Paris, you’re looking at The Ansonia New York. It is a massive, sprawling wedding cake of a building, dripping with terra cotta and topped with those iconic copper domes that have turned a distinct shade of oxidized green over the last century. Most people walk past it every day without realizing that this single block of real estate has seen more scandal, music, and literal livestock than almost any other address in the United States.
It’s huge. It’s loud. It’s a relic of an era when New York wasn't afraid to be a little bit "extra."
Originally built by William Earl Dodge Stokes—a man who was, by all accounts, eccentric and deeply litigious—the Ansonia wasn't just meant to be a hotel. Stokes wanted a self-sustaining utopia. He wanted a place where the elite could live in total luxury without ever needing to step foot onto the grimy streets of the Upper West Side. And he mostly succeeded, though the "utopia" part eventually involved a lot of court cases and a farm on the roof. Honestly, the history of this place is so dense with weirdness that if you tried to write it as fiction, an editor would tell you to tone it down.
The Man Behind the Legend: W.E.D. Stokes and His "Fireproof" Obsession
William Earl Dodge Stokes was an heir to a massive mining fortune, but his real passion was making sure things didn't burn down. He was terrified of fire. Because of this, The Ansonia New York was built with thick masonry walls and enough steel to support a bridge. The walls are so thick that the building is famously soundproof, a feature that eventually attracted every famous musician in the city.
Stokes was a character. He was the kind of guy who would sue his own family members just to keep things interesting. When he set out to build the Ansonia between 1899 and 1904, he hired French architect Paul E.M. Duboy. The goal? To out-do every other luxury hotel in the world. He wanted the biggest, the baddest, and the most ornate structure ever seen.
But it wasn't just about the architecture. Stokes had a farm on the roof. No, seriously.
In the early 1900s, the roof of the Ansonia featured a literal menagerie. There were about 500 chickens, a small flock of ducks, and even a few goats. He had a custom-built elevator just to transport the animals. Why? Because he wanted to provide fresh eggs and milk to his tenants. The New York Department of Health eventually shut the whole thing down because, as it turns out, having 500 chickens on a roof in the middle of Manhattan is a major health hazard. Stokes didn't care. He fought them for years. That’s the kind of energy that built the Ansonia.
Why Musicians Flocked to the Ansonia New York
If you’re a singer or a conductor, the Ansonia is basically hallowed ground. Because of those massive, thick walls Stokes insisted on for fireproofing, you could scream at the top of your lungs or play a trombone at 2:00 AM and your neighbor wouldn't hear a peep.
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This made it the unofficial dormitory for the Metropolitan Opera.
Enrico Caruso lived here. Igor Stravinsky spent time here. So did Gustav Mahler and Sergei Rachmaninoff. Can you imagine the sheer amount of talent concentrated in those hallways? You’d be waiting for the elevator and might run into the world’s greatest tenor practicing his scales.
The building was designed with wide corridors—wide enough that two people in full Victorian ballgowns could pass each other without touching. It had pneumatic tubes for delivering mail and a massive fountain in the lobby that supposedly had live seals at one point. It was a playground for the wealthy and the artistic, a place where the rules of the outside world didn't really seem to apply.
The Darker Side: 1919 Black Sox and Underground Clubs
The Ansonia hasn't always been about opera and fresh eggs. It’s been the backdrop for some of the biggest scandals in American history.
In 1919, a group of Chicago White Sox players met in a room at the Ansonia to plot the throwing of the World Series. This became the infamous "Black Sox Scandal." The building was the perfect hideout—discreet, luxurious, and right in the middle of the action. It’s wild to think that the integrity of America’s pastime was dismantled in a suite on Broadway.
Decades later, the building’s basement became the site of the legendary Plato’s Retreat.
In the late 1970s, the Ansonia went from high-society glam to the epicenter of the sexual revolution. Plato’s Retreat was an infamous "swingers" club that operated in the building's basement. It featured a massive swimming pool (originally built by Stokes as the world's largest indoor pool) and attracted everyone from average New Yorkers to major celebrities. Before that, the same space housed the Continental Baths, a gay bathhouse where Bette Midler—accompanied by Barry Manilow on the piano—started her career performing for men in towels.
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The Ansonia has always contained multitudes. It’s been a farm, a fortress, an opera house, and a den of iniquity. It’s been everything.
Living in the Ansonia Today: What It’s Actually Like
Today, The Ansonia New York is a condominium. The days of roof chickens and basement bathhouses are gone, replaced by high-end real estate and a much quieter vibe. But the architectural bones are still there.
If you’re looking to buy or rent there, you have to deal with the realities of an old building. The layouts are often bizarre. Because it was originally designed as a hotel where suites could be joined together or separated, you’ll find apartments with three bathrooms and no kitchen, or a living room that looks like a circular ballroom.
- The Soundproofing is Real. You can still play the drums and your neighbor probably won't complain. That’s a rare luxury in New York.
- The Views are Insane. If you’re high enough, the views of the Hudson River and Central Park are world-class.
- The Maintenance is... Extensive. Owning a piece of a terra cotta masterpiece isn't cheap. The facade work alone is a constant, multimillion-dollar project.
- The Vibe is History. You aren't just buying a condo; you’re buying into a narrative that includes Babe Ruth (who lived there and supposedly walked around in a silk bathrobe) and Natalie Portman.
It’s not for everyone. Some people find the heavy ornamentation and the "old building smells" (even in renovated units) to be a bit much. But for those who love the soul of New York, there’s nothing else like it.
The Architectural Specs You Should Know
The Ansonia is a Beaux-Arts masterpiece. It spans the entire block between 73rd and 74th Streets on Broadway. It stands 17 stories tall, which was gargantuan for its time.
The exterior is covered in ornate carvings that look like they belong in the middle of Paris. The roofline is the real star, though. Those copper turrets are some of the most recognizable features of the Manhattan skyline. Inside, the grand staircase is a work of art—a spiraling sweep of iron and marble that goes all the way up.
Stokes didn't cut corners. He used the best materials available at the turn of the century. This is why the building has survived when so many other hotels of that era were torn down. It’s just too solid to destroy.
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Debunking the Myths
People say there are secret tunnels connecting the Ansonia to the subway. While there were certainly service tunnels and massive basement spaces, the "secret passage to the train" is mostly urban legend.
Another myth is that the building is haunted. With the amount of history (and death) that has occurred within those walls over 120 years, it’s a fair guess. Residents have reported flickering lights and strange noises, but let’s be real: it’s an old building in New York. If it’s not ghosts, it’s probably just the steam pipes or the 1 train rumbling underneath.
How to Experience the Ansonia Without Living There
You don't need a multi-million dollar down payment to appreciate the building.
First, just do a slow walk around the perimeter. Start on the corner of 73rd and Broadway. Look at the detail in the ironwork. Look at the way the light hits the copper domes at sunset. It’s one of the most photogenic spots in the city.
Second, check out the local shops in the ground floor retail spaces. While the interior lobby is private for residents, the storefronts give you a sense of the scale of the place.
Third, if you’re a history buff, look up the archives at the New York Public Library. They have original photos of the roof farm and the early dining rooms. Seeing those images while standing in front of the building is a trip.
Final Actionable Steps for the Ansonia Enthusiast
If you are obsessed with New York history or looking to move to the Upper West Side, here is how you should approach The Ansonia New York:
- Visit at Twilight: The building looks its best when the streetlights kick on and the copper roof catches the last of the sun.
- Study the Facade: Bring binoculars. Seriously. The terra cotta details high up on the 15th floor are just as intricate as the ones at eye level.
- Check Real Estate Listings: Even if you aren't buying, look at the floor plans on sites like StreetEasy. They reveal the "franken-apartment" nature of the building’s evolution.
- Read "The Ansonia: A Social History": If you can find a copy, dive into the specific stories of the tenants from the 1920s through the 1940s. It’s a wild ride.
The Ansonia is more than just a building. It’s a survivor. It survived the Great Depression, the "dirty" 70s, and the transition of the Upper West Side from a bohemian enclave to a wealthy residential neighborhood. It stands as a reminder that New York is at its best when it’s a little bit over the top, a little bit weird, and completely unapologetic about its own grandeur.