Tinker Hatfield was stressed. It was 1989. Following up on the monumental success of the Jordan 3 was basically an impossible task. If he missed, the whole Jordan line might have folded. Instead, he gave us the Air Jordan Retro 4 OG, a shoe that looked like nothing else on the court. It was weird. It had plastic "wings," over-molded mesh, and a giant "Nike Air" logo on the heel that screamed brand identity.
People didn't love it immediately. Honestly, some thought it looked like a toy. But then Michael Jordan hit "The Shot" over Craig Ehlo in the 1989 playoffs while wearing the Black Cements. History changed. Now, decades later, we’re still chasing that same high every time a "Bred" or "Military Blue" colorway drops.
The Design Risk That Actually Worked
The Air Jordan Retro 4 OG wasn't just about looks; it was about performance, even if we mostly wear them to buy groceries now. Tinker wanted to make the shoe lighter. He introduced Durabuck—a synthetic leather that was tougher and more lightweight than the traditional stuff used on the 1s and 2s. Then there was that mesh. To keep the foot cool, he added urethane-coated net panels. It looked industrial. It felt functional.
You've probably noticed those triangular plastic pieces on the side. We call them "wings." They weren't just for show. They were designed to allow the wearer to lace the shoe in 18 different patterns. It was the first time a basketball shoe encouraged the user to customize their fit so drastically. It gave the Air Jordan Retro 4 OG a DIY spirit that resonated with the burgeoning streetwear scene in New York and Chicago.
Why "OG" Matters So Much
If you’re new to this, you might wonder why people freak out over the "OG" designation. It’s basically about the butt of the shoe. Modern retros often feature the Jumpman logo on the heel. Purists hate that. An "OG" version—or a "Reimagined" version that stays true to form—features the original "Nike Air" branding.
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Why? Because that’s what MJ wore. It represents the era before Jordan Brand became its own separate entity in 1997. When you see that Nike Air on a pair of 4s, you're looking at a piece of history, not just a lifestyle product. It’s the difference between a vintage Porsche and a kit car. Both look cool, but only one has the soul.
The Colorways That Define the Legacy
- White Cement: This is the one Spike Lee made famous in Do The Right Thing. That scene where Buggin' Out gets his shoes scuffed by a Celtics fan? Those were the 4s. It's arguably the most "wearable" colorway.
- Black Cement (Bred): This is the soul of the line. Black durabuck, red accents, and the grey cement midsole. It’s aggressive. It’s the shoe MJ wore when he broke Cleveland’s heart.
- Military Blue: For a long time, this was the forgotten child, but the 2024 release brought back the original 1989 specs, including the "Nike Air" branding, and it reminded everyone why blue and grey work so well on this silhouette.
- Fire Red: The boldest of the bunch. It’s loud. It’s unapologetic. It’s very "80s Chicago."
What Most People Get Wrong About Comfort
Let's be real for a second. The Air Jordan Retro 4 OG isn't the most comfortable shoe in the world by modern standards. If you're used to Yeezy Boost or Nike Invincible foam, these are going to feel like bricks at first. The "Air" unit is 1980s technology. It's firm.
There's also the "pinky toe" issue. Because of the narrow taper and the plastic wings, many people find that the 4 pinches their outer toes. If you have wide feet, do yourself a favor and go up half a size. Seriously. Don't suffer for the aesthetic. Once you break them in, the leather softens up, but that first week can be rough if you buy them too small.
How to Spot the 2024/2025 "Reimagined" Shifts
Recently, Nike has been playing with the materials. The "Bred Reimagined" replaced the classic durabuck with tumbled leather. Some fans were livid. Others loved it because leather is way easier to clean than the "ashy" durabuck that attracts dust like a magnet.
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The shape has also changed. For years, the 4 had a "banana toe"—a bulky, squared-off front that looked clunky. The latest Air Jordan Retro 4 OG releases have moved back to a sleeker, more downward-sloping toe box that mimics the 1989 original. It’s a small detail, but for collectors, it’s everything. It makes the shoe look faster, even when it’s just sitting on a shelf.
The Cultural Weight of the 4
It isn't just a sports shoe. It's a cinema icon. It's a hip-hop staple. When Jay-Z or Travis Scott gets spotted in a pair, the resale price on StockX or GOAT jumps instantly. But beyond the hype, there's a structural beauty to the 4. The way the mesh cuts across the tongue, the height of the collar—it’s a masterpiece of industrial design.
You can wear them with baggy cargos, slim jeans, or even shorts if you have the calf muscles to pull it off. They’re versatile, but they demand attention. They’re loud. They clank when you walk on hardwood. They have presence.
How to Maintain Your Pair
Don't let the durabuck get wet. Just don't. If you have the original material, water will ruin the texture and make it look "dead." Use a dry soft-bristled brush for dust. If you have the leather "Reimagined" versions, you can pretty much hit them with a damp cloth and be fine.
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One thing to watch out for: crumbling. If you buy a pair from 2012 and try to wear them today, the midsole will likely disintegrate. The polyurethane foam in the Air Jordan Retro 4 OG has a shelf life. It needs moisture from the air and the pressure of your footsteps to stay stable. If they sit in a box for ten years, they’ll turn to powder the moment you hit the pavement. Wear your shoes.
Actionable Advice for Your Next Purchase
If you're looking to add an Air Jordan Retro 4 OG to your rotation, follow these steps to ensure you don't get burned:
- Check the "Nike Air" Alignment: On authentic pairs, the branding on the heel is perfectly centered and the plastic molding around it is crisp, not soft or rounded.
- The "flick" test: Pull the back tab down. On a real pair, it should snap back instantly. If it limps back into place, it’s likely a fake or uses poor-quality materials.
- Go half-size up: Unless you have very narrow feet, the 4 is notoriously tight in the toe box. Your pinky toes will thank you.
- Verify the netting direction: On the original 4s, the mesh netting on the sides should run parallel to the "wings," not straight up and down. This is a common mistake on low-quality replicas.
- Store them in a cool, dry place: But again, wear them at least once a month. The pressure of walking keeps the midsole foam from oxidizing and crumbling.
The Air Jordan 4 is more than a sneaker; it's a 36-year-old survivor that still looks futuristic. Whether you're chasing the "Military Blue" or the "White Cement," you're buying into a lineage of design that hasn't been topped since the late eighties.