You remember the first time you saw the leaked photos of the Air Jordan 1 Union back in 2018? People were genuinely confused. The stitching looked DIY. The colors didn't quite match the traditional Chicago or Black Toe blocking. It looked like someone had chopped up two different shoes in their garage and glued them back together with a zig-zag stitch they learned in middle school home ec.
It was polarizing.
But that was exactly the point Chris Gibbs, the owner of Union Los Angeles, was trying to make. He wanted to capture the feeling of finding a beat-up, vintage pair of Jordans at a thrift store and repairing them with whatever parts were lying around. It wasn't about being perfect; it was about being authentic to the "golden era" of streetwear. Honestly, looking back, it's probably the most influential sneaker collaboration of the last decade. It changed how brands approach "vintage" aesthetics entirely.
The Design Philosophy That Most People Get Wrong
Most folks think the Air Jordan 1 Union is just a mashup of famous colorways. That's a surface-level take. To understand why these hit so hard, you have to look at the "BVN" (Black/Varsity Red) and "Storm Blue" pairs through the lens of 80s and 90s DIY culture.
Chris Gibbs didn't just want a new color; he wanted a new feel.
The leather on the original 2018 drop is noticeably thicker and more "tumbled" than your standard GR (General Release) Jordan 1. The edges are raw and yellowed, meant to mimic the oxidation of a shoe that's been sitting in a dusty attic since 1985. Then there's the yellow "UN/LA" tag. It’s small, but it was a massive signal to the community that Union was putting their stamp on the GOAT's silhouette.
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They used a thick, contrast zig-zag stitch to connect the collars. On the Black Toe version, they used a grey collar from a "Neutral Grey" pair. On the Storm Blue version, they grabbed the red collar from a "Bred" pair. It shouldn't work. On paper, it sounds like a mess. In person? It’s a masterpiece of proportions.
Why the Resale Prices Are Absolutely Absurd
If you try to buy a pair of the Storm Blue Air Jordan 1 Union today, you’re looking at dropping anywhere from $1,800 to $2,500 depending on the size. Why? Because the supply is fixed and the demand has only grown as the "Aged" aesthetic became the dominant trend in fashion.
Sneaker culture is cyclical, but these shoes stayed relevant because they don't look like they're trying too hard. When Nike started pumping out "Reimagined" Lost and Founds or Washed Black 1s, they were all chasing the dragon that Union birthed.
- Scarcity: Union didn't overproduce these. They kept the numbers tight enough to feel exclusive but broad enough that real fans could (theoretically) hit on the drop.
- The "Union" Effect: Unlike some celebrity collabs that feel like a name slapped on a box, Union has a reputation for high-level curation.
- Materials: Ask any collector about the leather quality. It’s significantly better than the plastic-y feel of the 2022-2024 Jordan 1 runs.
You’ve probably seen the "fake" versions everywhere. The Union 1 is one of the most replicated shoes in history because the design is so complex. The "pink tongue" flaw on early batches of reps became a legend in its own right among the Reddit crowds. It just goes to show how much people wanted this specific look without the four-figure price tag.
Breaking Down the 2023 "BBS" Collaboration
Fast forward to 2023. Union teamed up with Bephies Beauty Supply (founded by Beth Birkett, Gibbs’ wife) to release a second Air Jordan 1. This one was even more divisive. They went with a Woven design, pulling inspiration from the Nike Air Footscape Woven.
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People hated it at first. "It looks like a baseball," they said.
But sneaker history is littered with shoes that were hated on Day 1 and became grails on Day 1,000. The woven detail wrapped around the entire mid-panel, giving it a texture we hadn't seen on a Jordan 1 since... well, ever. It was a bold move. It wasn't just a rehash of the 2018 success. It was a risk.
I’ve talked to collectors who swear the BBS Woven pair is more comfortable because the woven section allows for more flex in the forefoot. Standard Jordan 1s are notoriously stiff—basically wooden planks for your feet. Anything that adds a bit of give is a win in my book.
How to Spot a Real Pair in a Sea of Fakes
If you're actually going to hunt for a pair of Air Jordan 1 Union sneakers, you need to be careful. The "Swoosh" size is the biggest giveaway. On the Union 1s, the Swoosh is oversized. It’s bigger than a standard 1985 or Retro Swoosh, often creeping up closer to the lace eyelets.
Check the "Wings" logo. On the 2018 pairs, the logo is actually embossed and much larger than usual, often crossing over the stitching. If the logo looks small or centered like a regular Jordan 1, it's a red flag.
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Then there’s the yellowing on the midsole. It should look natural, like a cream or "sail" color. Some fakes have a weird, neon-yellow tint that looks like it was colored in with a highlighter. Don't get burned. Always check the stitching density around the collar too. It should be tight and consistent, even though it's designed to look "hand-done."
The Cultural Impact: More Than Just Leather
The Union collaboration happened at a turning point. Before 2018, streetwear was very much about "clean" looks—minimalist branding and crisp colors. Union pushed us back toward the "messy" aesthetic. They made it okay for shoes to look old.
Think about it. After the Union 1, we got the Off-White "The Ten" (which also used raw foam), but Union did it with a more "heritage" vibe. It paved the way for brands like A Ma Maniére to use cracked leather and muted tones.
It’s basically the "distressed denim" of the sneaker world.
Actionable Steps for Collectors and Investors
If you're looking to add these to your rotation, keep these reality checks in mind:
- Don't buy used pairs without seeing the insoles. The "Union" logo on the insole peels off incredibly easily. If the logo is pristine but the outsole is worn, something is fishy.
- Verify the box. The box art for the Union 1s is unique, featuring sketches and blueprint-style designs of Jordan's history. Most counterfeiters mess up the color saturation on the box.
- Check the extra laces. They come with two-tone laces that transition from one color to another (e.g., black to cream). The transition point should be clean, not a muddy mess.
- Buy the 2023 Woven pair if you're on a budget. They are significantly cheaper than the 2018 pairs and represent a unique piece of Union's history without requiring a second mortgage.
- Watch the "yellowing" over time. Even authentic pairs will continue to oxidize. If you buy a "Deadstock" pair from 2018 today, expect the soles to be much darker than they were in the original promo photos.
The Air Jordan 1 Union isn't just a shoe; it's a case study in how to respect history while completely ignoring the "rules" of design. It shouldn't have worked, but it did. And that's why we're still talking about it nearly a decade later. Whether you prefer the Storm Blue or the Black Toe, there's no denying that Chris Gibbs changed the game. If you can find a pair for a decent price, grab them. They aren't getting any cheaper, and Nike isn't making any more of the 2018 classics.