The sneaker world is fickle. One day you’re the king of the shelf, and the next, you’re sitting in a clearance bin at an outlet in the middle of nowhere. That’s basically the life story of the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High. Released back in 2016, this shoe was a weird experiment by Jordan Brand. It was a time when the "sneakerboot" trend was peaking. Brands were obsessed with making basketball shoes look like they belonged on a hiking trail or in a techwear editorial. Nike saw the hype around Flyknit and the success of the Magista football boots and thought, "Hey, let’s slap a wool-like textile and a giant sock onto the most iconic silhouette in history."
It didn't go exactly as planned.
If you look at the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High, it’s a massive departure from the leather we’ve come to expect. Instead of that classic, buttery (or sometimes plastic-y) leather, you get this dense, heavy-duty textile. It’s rugged. It’s durable. But it’s definitely not a traditional Jordan 1. The most striking thing is that internal bootie. It’s this high-cut neoprene collar that hugs your ankle, making the shoe look more like a piece of tactical gear than a lifestyle sneaker. Honestly, if you saw someone wearing these from a distance in 2016, you might have mistaken them for a pair of high-end Y-3s or some experimental Nike Lab creation.
The Problem With Fixing What Isn’t Broken
People love the Jordan 1 because it’s simple. It’s a flat sole, some leather panels, and a swoosh. When Jordan Brand introduced the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High, they added complexity where nobody really asked for it.
The lacing system is a great example of this "over-engineering." They used these thick, round boot-style laces and heel pull tabs. Sure, the pull tabs are practical—getting your foot into a tight neoprene sock isn't exactly a "slide-in" experience—but it changed the profile of the shoe. It felt bulky. Purists hated it. They felt the slim, sleek silhouette of the 1985 classic was being buried under a mountain of tech-spec features that didn't actually make the shoe better for basketball or for the street.
But here’s the thing: it actually performed okay in cold weather. While a standard leather Jordan 1 lets the wind whip right through the perforations on the toe box, the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High was surprisingly warm. The textile upper acted more like a soft-shell jacket for your feet. If you lived in a city like Chicago or New York, there was a brief moment where these made total sense. You wanted the "look" of a Jordan but didn't want to ruin your "Breds" in the slush.
🔗 Read more: Finding the Right Word That Starts With AJ for Games and Everyday Writing
Colorways That Almost Saved the Model
Nike didn't go crazy with the colors. They kept it safe. We saw the "Bred" (Black and Varsity Red) and the "Royal" versions, which are the holy grails of the original 1985 lineup. By putting these iconic colors on the Ultra High, Jordan Brand was clearly trying to bridge the gap between tradition and "new-age" design.
There was also a "Black/Ghost Green/Blue Lagoon" version that felt very much like it belonged in the Space Jam era. But even the nostalgia of the colorways couldn't hide the fact that the materials felt "off" to many collectors. The "Black/White" version was probably the most successful because the high-contrast look emphasized the texture of the textile upper, making it look intentionally different rather than a "fake" version of a leather shoe.
Why Resale Markets Forgot About Them
If you go on StockX or GOAT right now and look for the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High, you’ll notice something interesting. They aren't expensive. While a standard Jordan 1 Retro High OG can easily command triple its retail price, the Ultra High often hovers around or even below its original $150 retail tag.
Why? Because the sneaker community prioritizes "heritage."
The Ultra High is a product of its time—the mid-2010s "athleisure" boom. It doesn't have the timelessness of a leather sneaker. Once the trend of "everything-is-a-sock" died down, the demand for this specific model evaporated. It lacks the "Air" (pun intended) of exclusivity. You could walk into a Foot Locker six months after they dropped and still find pairs on the shelf. In the world of hype, availability is often the kiss of death.
💡 You might also like: Is there actually a legal age to stay home alone? What parents need to know
The Comfort Factor (Or Lack Thereof)
Let's talk about the actual "on-foot" experience.
Traditional Jordan 1s are notoriously uncomfortable for long walks. They have thin soles and almost no arch support. You’d think the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High would fix this, right? Well, sort of. The textile upper is softer and requires zero break-in time. You won't get those nasty blisters on your heels that you get from stiff leather.
However, the "sock" part—the extended collar—is polarizing. If you have thicker ankles, it can feel restrictive. If you wear the wrong socks, the friction against the neoprene can get sweaty and uncomfortable fast. It’s a shoe that demands specific styling. You can't really wear these with skinny jeans without looking like you’re wearing scuba gear. They almost require cropped trousers or tech-fleece joggers to look remotely "correct."
A Forgotten Step in the Evolution of the CMFT Line
Looking back, you can see how the Air Jordan 1 Ultra High paved the way for things like the Jordan 1 Zoom CMFT or the Jordan 1 Acclimate. Jordan Brand realized that people wanted comfort and weather resistance, but they also learned that you can't mess with the "look" too much.
The Ultra High was the "sacrificial lamb." It proved that a total overhaul of the materials and the collar height was too much for the general public to swallow. Later models, like the CMFT, kept the classic leather look but hid the tech inside or used more subtle deconstructed elements. The Ultra High was loud about its changes. It screamed, "I am a modern update!" and the market screamed back, "We just want the old stuff!"
📖 Related: The Long Haired Russian Cat Explained: Why the Siberian is Basically a Living Legend
How to Style Them if You Find a Pair
If you happen to find a pair in an outlet or on a resale site for a steal, don't write them off completely. They are actually great "beaters." Because the upper is textile, they don't crease in that ugly, cracked way that cheap leather does. They age differently. They just get... fuzzy.
- Techwear Vibes: Lean into the look. Pair them with black cargo pants that have plenty of straps and pockets. The "Ninja" aesthetic is where this shoe actually shines.
- Winter Rotation: Use them as your "bad weather" Jordans. They handle light snow and rain much better than your standard retros.
- Lace Swap: Throwing some flat laces on them can actually tone down the "boot" look and make them feel a bit more like a standard sneaker.
The Air Jordan 1 Ultra High will likely never be a "grail." It won't have a 10-part documentary about its design process. But it remains a fascinating footnote in the history of the brand. It represents a moment when Jordan Brand was brave enough to be weird, even if the result was something that most people didn't actually want to buy.
Actionable Insights for Buyers
If you’re looking to pick these up today, keep a few things in mind. First, size up half a size. That internal bootie makes the fit much tighter than a standard AJ1. If you have a wide foot, you might even need a full size up to get past the neoprene collar.
Second, check the heel tabs. On used pairs, these are the first things to fray or snap. Since you need them to actually put the shoe on, make sure they’re sturdy. Finally, don't pay "hype" prices. There is plenty of stock out there in the secondary market, and you should never be paying more than $130-$140 for a deadstock pair. They are a utility shoe, not a trophy. Treat them that way and you'll actually enjoy the rugged, weird charm they bring to a collection.