Why the Acne Studios shearling jacket is basically the only winter investment that makes sense

Why the Acne Studios shearling jacket is basically the only winter investment that makes sense

You’ve seen it. Even if you don’t think you have, you definitely have. That oversized, slightly aggressive, undeniably cool Acne Studios shearling jacket has been the unofficial uniform of the "off-duty" look for over a decade. It’s heavy. It’s expensive. It’s a lot of leather. Yet, every single year when the temperature drops in Stockholm or New York, the Velocite—the flagship model—starts appearing on every street corner.

It’s weird. In an industry that moves as fast as fashion, most "it" items die within eighteen months. Remember those platform sneakers or the tiny sunglasses? Gone. But the Acne Studios shearling jacket persists. It’s become a modern vintage piece. People aren’t just buying them new; they’re scouring Grailed and Vestiaire Collective for versions from 2014 because the leather actually gets better once it’s been beaten up a bit by the rain.

Honestly, it’s a beast of a garment. If you’ve ever held one, you know they weigh a ton. We’re talking five or six pounds of lamb shearling. It’s not just a jacket; it’s basically portable architecture.

What people actually mean when they talk about the Velocite

When most people talk about an Acne Studios shearling jacket, they are specifically referring to the Velocite. It’s the one with the thick leather straps at the neck and cuffs. It’s got that boxy, almost masculine silhouette that somehow looks incredible over a silk dress or just beat-up jeans.

Jonny Johansson, the Creative Director of Acne Studios, has a knack for taking something functional and making it feel slightly "off" in a way that’s addictive. With the Velocite, he took the classic aviator style—think 1940s pilots—and blew the proportions out of the water. The collar is massive. The sleeves are long. The hardware is chunky.

But it’s not just the Velocite anymore. Over the last few seasons, the brand has branched out. You’ve got the Ian, which is a bit more streamlined and traditional. Then there are the cropped versions and the shearling-lined denim jackets. However, the core appeal remains the same: high-grade lambskin and that specific Swedish "cool" that’s impossible to replicate.

Is it actually worth the four-figure price tag?

Let’s be real. Spending $2,500 to $3,000 on a jacket is insane for most people. It’s a mortgage payment. It’s a used car. So, why do people do it?

First, the warmth factor is legendary. Most fashion jackets are "car coats"—meaning you can wear them from your front door to a heated Uber. The Acne Studios shearling jacket is different. It’s genuinely built for Swedish winters. The shearling is thick enough to block out wind that would cut through a standard wool coat. You can wear a T-shirt under this thing in 30-degree weather and feel totally fine.

Second, the durability is legitimate. We aren’t talking about thin, "genuine leather" that peels after two seasons. This is heavy-duty lamb leather. Because it’s a natural material, it breathes, but it also takes a beating. The hardware is usually high-quality brass or silver-toned metal that doesn't snap off.

The resale value is kind of shocking

If you buy a trendy jacket from a fast-fashion brand, its value drops to zero the second you leave the store. An Acne Studios shearling jacket is more like a piece of gold. If you take care of it, you can often sell it five years later for 60-70% of what you paid. Sometimes more, if the specific colorway is discontinued.

That "cost per wear" math actually starts to make sense if you plan on keeping it for a decade. It’s the antithesis of fast fashion. It’s slow. It’s heavy. It’s permanent.

How to spot a fake (because there are thousands)

Because these jackets are so iconic, the counterfeit market is massive. And honestly? Some of them are getting scary good. But there are always tells.

  • The Weight: If the jacket feels light, it’s fake. Real shearling is dense. If it feels like a standard hoodie weight, it’s probably synthetic "sherpa" or low-quality hide.
  • The Hardware: Acne uses heavy, branded zippers. They should glide smoothly. If the zipper feels "scratchy" or cheap, walk away.
  • The Smell: Real lamb leather has a distinct, earthy scent. Fakes often smell like chemicals or plastic because of the glues used to bond synthetic fur to fake leather.
  • The Buckles: On the Velocite, the leather straps should be thick and the stitching should be perfectly straight. Many replicas use thin, flimsy leather for the straps that curls up over time.

Sizing is a total nightmare

Here is the thing no one tells you: the sizing is wild. Acne Studios is a Swedish brand, and their "oversized" fit is truly oversized. If you buy your "normal" size in a Velocite, you might look like you’re wearing a sleeping bag.

Most stylists recommend sizing down at least once, or even twice, if you want a more tailored look. But then again, part of the charm is the bulk. It’s supposed to look like you borrowed it from a very wealthy pilot who is six inches taller than you. If you’re petite, the cropped shearling versions are usually a much safer bet. They give you the "Acne look" without swallowing your entire frame.

Real-world styling: How to not look like a marshmallow

The biggest fear with a giant leather jacket is looking like the Michelin Man. It’s a valid concern. The trick is balance.

If you’re wearing the big shearling up top, you generally want something slimmer on the bottom. Leggings, skinny jeans (yes, they are coming back), or a fitted knit midi skirt work best. If you go baggy on top and baggy on bottom, you risk looking like a pile of laundry.

Some people love the "clash" look—pairing the rugged, tough leather with something delicate. Think a slip dress and combat boots. It takes the "toughness" out of the jacket and makes it feel more intentional.

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The sustainability conversation

Is a leather jacket sustainable? It depends on who you ask.

From a "waste" perspective, buying one high-quality jacket that lasts 20 years is infinitely better for the planet than buying a new polyester coat every winter. Synthetic furs are basically made of plastic, and they shed microplastics into the water every time they are cleaned.

Acne Studios has also been a member of the Fair Wear Foundation since 2008. They monitor their supply chains more closely than most. However, it is still animal product. If you’re vegan, this isn't the jacket for you. But if you’re looking for a "buy once, cry once" piece of clothing, shearling is one of the few materials that actually lives up to that promise.

Care and Maintenance

Don't you dare put this in a washing machine. Ever.

If you get caught in a downpour, shake the water off and hang it on a thick, padded hanger away from a radiator. Heat is the enemy of leather; it makes it brittle. If you get a stain on the suede side, a suede stone or a soft brush is your best friend. For the shearling inside, a quick professional leather clean every couple of years is usually enough.

Honestly, most people over-clean their leathers. The oils from your skin and the natural wear of the world give it character. A pristine, brand-new Acne jacket looks a little bit like you’re trying too hard. A slightly scuffed one looks like you have stories.

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Common misconceptions about Acne shearling

People think "shearling" and "sheepskin" are different. They aren't. Shearling is just a sheep or lamb that has been shorn once. It’s the hide with the wool still attached.

Another myth: "It’s too heavy to be comfortable." It is heavy, but the weight is distributed across your shoulders. Once it’s on, it feels more like a suit of armor than a burden. It’s weirdly comforting. Like a weighted blanket you can wear to get coffee.

What’s next for your wardrobe?

If you're ready to pull the trigger on an Acne Studios shearling jacket, don't just buy the first one you see online. The market is nuanced and prices fluctuate wildly based on the season.

Identify your fit. Go to a physical store if you can. Try on the Velocite versus the Ian versus the shorter aviator styles. You might find the "classic" is too much for your daily life.

Check the secondary market. Sites like The RealReal or Vestiaire Collective often have these jackets for $1,200 instead of $2,800. Look for "Excellent" condition. A little bit of wear on the elbows is actually a good sign—it means the leather has started to soften up.

Verify the tags. Check the "made in" tags. While most of Acne's production is in Europe (Turkey, Portugal, Italy), the specific factory can tell you a lot about the era the jacket was produced. Older models are often coveted for having slightly thicker hides.

Invest in a proper hanger. This is the most underrated step. A thin wire hanger will ruin the shoulders of a heavy shearling jacket in a single season. Buy a wide, wooden coat hanger. It’s a $20 investment to protect a $2,000 garment.

Buying an Acne Studios shearling jacket isn't just a fashion choice; it's a commitment to a specific type of aesthetic. It’s for the person who wants to be warm but refuses to wear a puffer coat. It’s rugged, it’s oversized, and it’s probably the last winter jacket you’ll ever need to buy.

Check the hardware, mind the sizing, and once you get it, wear it into the ground. That’s what it was made for.