You see it before you hear it. Usually. That long, sweeping fastback silhouette of the 67 Chevy Impala lowrider isn't just a car; it's a moving piece of Chicano history that’s basically become the gold standard for anyone who knows anything about hydraulic culture. While the '64 gets all the love in the songs, the '67 is the one that actually feels like a tank on the road. It’s wider. It’s meaner. It has those coke-bottle curves that make modern cars look like bars of used soap.
Honestly, if you’re looking for a subtle ride, you’re in the wrong place.
The Design That Changed Everything
When Chevrolet dropped the 1967 model, they weren't thinking about three-wheel motions or chrome-plated pumps. They were trying to outsell Ford. But what they accidentally created was the perfect canvas for a lowrider. The "coke-bottle" styling—where the fenders bulge out and the middle narrows—gave the car a muscular stance even when it was bone stock.
The '67 was the first year for some serious safety upgrades too. We're talking about an energy-absorbing steering column and dual-master cylinder brakes. For a guy building a heavy-hitting 67 Chevy Impala lowrider, those small mechanical shifts actually matter. When you’ve got 500 pounds of batteries in the trunk, you want a frame and a braking system that won’t give up the ghost the first time you hit a switch.
People always argue about the tail lights. The '67 has these distinct, triple-unit lights recessed into the bumper. They aren't the "six-tray" round lights of the '64, but they have a refined, aggressive look that screams late-60s muscle. It’s that weird middle ground between the classic boxy look of the early 60s and the boat-like proportions of the 70s.
Why the Fastback Matters
The roofline is the kicker. On a 67 Chevy Impala lowrider, that fastback roof creates a seamless line from the top of the windshield all the way to the rear bumper. It’s sleek. It makes the car look like it’s doing 100 mph while it’s parked at a Picnic or a car show.
Most guys in the scene prefer the 2-door Sports Coupe for this exact reason. The way the glass meets the metal on the '67 is just... different. It’s elegant but tough. You’ve probably seen "Baby" from the show Supernatural, but that’s a 4-door. In the lowrider world? 4-doors are okay for daily drivers, but if you’re going for a trophy at a Lowrider Magazine sanctioned show, you want that 2-door fastback. It’s the law of the street.
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Hydraulics and the Art of the Hop
You can't talk about a 67 Chevy Impala lowrider without talking about what’s happening underneath the chassis. We aren't talking about air bags here. Air is for Volkswagens. Lowriders use hydraulics—high-pressure fluid, aircraft-grade pumps, and a bank of deep-cycle batteries that could probably power a small village.
The setup usually involves:
- Two or three chrome pumps (often OG Adel or Fenner Stone)
- 8 to 10 batteries wired in series for that "hit"
- Adex or square dumps to control the fluid return
- Reinforced "wrapped" frames to prevent the car from snapping in half
I’ve seen frames stress-crack right behind the A-arms because the owner wanted to "play" too hard without reinforcing the metal. If you’re building a 67 Chevy Impala lowrider, you have to reinforce the stress points. You're taking a 4,000-pound car and launching the front end three feet into the air. Physics is a hater, and it will break your car if you don't do the prep work.
The 1967 model year is particularly good for this because the X-frame was gone by then. Chevy moved to a full perimeter frame in '65. This makes the car significantly more stable for a hydraulic setup. It's wider. It's more rigid. It handles the weight of the juice much better than the earlier models ever could.
The Wheels That Make the Look
If you put 20-inch rims on a 67 Chevy Impala lowrider, you’ve basically committed a crime in East LA. The only acceptable wheel is a 13x7 wire wheel. Dayton is the big name—the "D's"—but there are plenty of other brands like Zenith or China wires for those on a budget.
The tires? 5.20s or 155/80R13s with a thin whitewall.
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Why 13s? Because they let the car sit "on the ground." When you dump the fluid, the body should practically touch the pavement. Small wheels allow that tuck. It’s a specific aesthetic that says, "I don't care about performance; I care about style."
The Culture Behind the Chrome
Building a 67 Chevy Impala lowrider isn't just a hobby. It’s expensive. It’s a lifestyle. It’s about the "ranfla." For many in the Chicano community, these cars represent a claim to space. In a world that often tries to make you invisible, a candy-painted '67 with a mural on the trunk and chrome plating on every single bolt is a way of saying, "Look at me. I'm here."
The paint jobs on these things are insane. We’re talking 20 to 30 coats of lacquer or urethane. Flake, kandy, patterns, pinstriping by legends like Mike Lamberson or the late Walt Prey. You might spend $20,000 just on the paint. And that's before you even touch the engine or the interior.
Speaking of interiors, the '67 had some beautiful options. The "Super Sport" (SS) trim is the holy grail. It came with bucket seats and a center console that just looks right. A lot of guys go for the OG look—original patterns but in different colors or materials like crushed velvet or high-end leather.
Common Pitfalls and What to Watch For
If you’re hunting for a project, watch out for the "Impala Rust." Check the trunk pan. Check the rear quarters. Because of the way the 1967 body is shaped, water likes to sit in the seams. Also, look at the "C" pillars. If the vinyl top was ever on there, it might be hiding a mess of Swiss cheese metal.
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Another thing: the 327 small block was common in these, and it's a great engine. Reliable. Easy to fix. But if you find one with a factory 427? Keep it. That’s a unicorn. Most lowriders aren't built for speed, but having that big block under the hood adds a ton of value and "clout" at the local meet.
How to Get Started with Your Own Build
You don't just wake up and own a show-quality 67 Chevy Impala lowrider. You build it in stages. Most people start with the body and the frame. You want a straight car before you start adding heavy hydraulics.
- Find a solid base. A '67 2-door is getting harder to find. Expect to pay anywhere from $15,000 for a basket case to $45,000 for a clean driver.
- Reinforce the frame. If you plan on hopping, this is non-negotiable. "Wrap" the frame in 3/16 or 1/4 inch steel.
- Choose your pumps. Start with a basic two-pump, four-dump setup. It gives you "front, back, and side-to-side" movement without being overly complex for a beginner.
- Source the 13s. Get your wire wheels early. It changes the entire personality of the car and helps you visualize the final stance.
- The Paint. Don't rush this. A bad paint job on a '67 is like a bad suit on a tuxedo—it just ruins the whole vibe.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Lowrider Owner
If the 67 Chevy Impala lowrider is your dream car, start by attending local shows. Talk to the guys in the car clubs—Majestics, Lifestyle, Los Angeles, Southside. Most of them are happy to share knowledge if you’re respectful.
Check out specialized forums and social media groups dedicated specifically to 1965-1970 Full Size Chevys. The parts aren't as plentiful as they are for the '64, so you'll need to know where the "hidden stashes" of NOS (New Old Stock) parts are located.
Join a local "buy/sell/trade" group for lowrider parts. You’d be surprised how often someone is selling a set of refurbished '67 bumpers or a period-correct 327 engine.
Lastly, understand the commitment. A 67 Chevy Impala lowrider is a high-maintenance machine. Between charging batteries, checking hydraulic fittings for leaks, and keeping that chrome polished, it’s a part-time job. But the first time you cruise down the boulevard on a Sunday afternoon, hitting the switches and feeling that 17-foot steel beast respond to your touch, you’ll realize it’s worth every cent and every hour of grease under your fingernails.
Focus on the mechanical integrity first. A car that looks good but won't start is just a heavy lawn ornament. Get the 327 or 283 running smooth, ensure your cooling system can handle the slow-speed cruising, and then worry about the "show" side of things. Consistency beats a rushed build every single time.
Keep your eyes on the classifieds and your tools ready. The right '67 is out there waiting for a transformation.