Walk onto any used car lot today and you’ll see them. Dozens of shiny, high-tech pickups with screens the size of iPads and price tags that make your eyes water. But tucked in the back, usually near the trade-ins, you’ll find the 2013 Ford F 150 XLT. It’s the truck your neighbor has owned for a decade. It’s the one still hauling gravel at the local landscaping yard. It’s not flashy. It doesn't have massaging seats or a panoramic sunroof that’s destined to leak in five years. It just works.
Honestly, the 2013 model year was a "sweet spot" for Ford. They had finally ironed out the early-generation kinks of the EcoBoost engines, and the Coyote 5.0L V8 was cementing its reputation as a legend. If you’re looking for a used rig that balances modern safety with "fix-it-in-your-driveway" simplicity, this is basically the peak of the mountain before everything got overly complicated with aluminum bodies and ten-speed transmissions.
What’s Under the Hood of the 2013 Ford F 150 XLT?
When people talk about this truck, they usually argue about two engines. It’s a classic debate. On one side, you’ve got the 3.5-liter EcoBoost twin-turbo V6. On the other, the 5.0-liter "Coyote" V8.
The EcoBoost was Ford’s big bet. It promised V8 power with V6 fuel economy. Does it deliver? Sorta. In 2013, it was pushing 365 horsepower and a massive 420 lb-ft of torque. That torque comes in low, too. You feel it the second you tap the gas. However, if you’re looking at a high-mileage unit, you’ve got to be careful. Timing chain stretch and "shuddering" issues caused by condensation in the intercooler were real problems for these early turbos. Ford eventually released a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) to fix the condensation issue with a plastic deflector, but it’s something to check in the service records.
Then there’s the 5.0L V8. It sounds like a truck should. It’s simpler. No turbos to fail. It puts out 360 horsepower and 380 lb-ft of torque. It’s a workhorse. Mechanics love them because there's actually room to move your hands in the engine bay. If you’re planning on keeping the truck until the wheels fall off, the V8 is usually the safer bet for longevity.
Don't forget the base 3.7L V6. It’s fine for a commuter, but nobody buys an F-150 to be "fine." And the 6.2L V8? That was mostly for the Raptors or the high-trim Lariats and Platinums, though you might stumble across a rare XLT Max Tow package with it. It drinks gas like a hole in the ground, but man, it pulls.
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The Interior: Plastic, Buttons, and Sanity
Stepping inside a 2013 Ford F 150 XLT is like taking a trip back to a time when ergonomics actually mattered more than aesthetic minimalism. Everything is a button or a knob. You can adjust the volume or the temperature while wearing thick work gloves. You don't have to dive through three sub-menus on a touchscreen just to turn on the defroster.
The XLT was the "everyman" trim. You get cloth seats—usually that durable, slightly rough Ford fabric that stands up to coffee spills and dog hair surprisingly well. Most 2013 XLTs came with the 4.2-inch LCD screen in the instrument cluster and the SYNC system. Let’s be real: SYNC in 2013 was... temperamental. It’ll connect to your phone for calls, but the Bluetooth audio pairing can sometimes feel like you’re trying to negotiate a peace treaty.
Space is the big selling point here. If you get the SuperCrew (the full four-door), the rear floor is completely flat. You can flip the seats up and fit a literal flat-screen TV or a mountain bike back there. It’s cavernous. My buddy once moved a small dresser in the back seat of his 2013 just because it was raining and he didn't want it in the bed.
Real-World Reliability: The Stuff Owners Won't Tell You
No truck is perfect. Not even this one. While the 2013 is generally considered one of the more reliable years for the twelfth-generation F-Series, you need to watch out for the "Ford Rust."
Check the cab corners. Check the rocker panels. For some reason, Ford’s design during these years allowed moisture and road salt to get trapped inside the body panels. If you see a small bubble in the paint near the rear doors, walk away or prepare to spend a couple of thousand dollars at a body shop. By the time you see the rust on the outside, the inside is usually toast.
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Another weird quirk? The fuse for the fuel pump. It’s Fuse 27 in the engine bay fuse box. It’s known to overheat and melt the plastic around it, which can leave you stranded on the side of the highway. There’s a "Fuse 27 Relocation Kit" that costs about $25 and takes an hour to install. It’s the first thing any smart 2013 owner does.
Transmission-wise, the 6R80 six-speed automatic is a tank. It’s widely regarded as one of the best transmissions Ford ever put in a truck. It’s smooth, it’s predictable, and it doesn't hunt for gears like the newer 10-speeds often do. Just make sure to change the fluid every 60,000 to 100,000 miles, despite what the "lifetime fluid" marketing might suggest.
Towing and Payload Realities
The marketing brochures from 2013 will tell you this truck can tow up to 11,300 pounds.
Take that with a grain of salt.
That number is for a very specific configuration—usually a regular cab, long bed, with the Max Trailer Tow Package.
For a standard XLT SuperCrew with the 3.5L EcoBoost or the 5.0L V8, you’re looking at a comfortable towing capacity of around 7,500 to 9,000 pounds. Payload is the number that usually trips people up. Most XLTs have a payload capacity (the weight of passengers, tongue weight, and gear) of around 1,500 to 1,800 pounds. If you put four 250-pound guys in the truck and a heavy tongue-weight trailer on the back, you’re at your limit faster than you think.
Is the 2013 Ford F 150 XLT Worth Buying Today?
In a word? Yes.
But you have to be smart about it.
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The market for used trucks is still pretty inflated. You’ll see 2013 XLTs with 150,000 miles going for $15,000 or even $18,000 in some regions. That seems crazy for a decade-old vehicle, but when a new one costs $60,000, the math starts to make sense.
You’re getting a steel-body truck. It’s heavier than the 2015-and-newer aluminum models, which some people actually prefer for towing stability. You're getting a proven powertrain. And most importantly, you're getting a truck that any independent mechanic in the country can fix. There are millions of these things on the road. Parts are cheap. Junkyards are full of them if you need a replacement mirror or a tail light.
What to Check Before You Buy
- The "Cold Start" Test: Listen to the engine when it first fires up. If you hear a rattling sound for 2 seconds that goes away, it’s likely the timing chain tensioners on an EcoBoost. That’s a $2,500 repair.
- The Fuse 27 Check: Open the hood, pop the fuse box, and look at slot 27. If it’s charred, the owner hasn't done the relocation kit yet.
- Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS): The 2013 uses an electric rack rather than a hydraulic pump. If the steering feels "notchy" or heavy, the rack might be failing. It’s not a cheap part.
- The Third Brake Light: It sounds minor, but these were notorious for leaking. Check the headliner for water stains. A leaking light can fry the BCM (Body Control Module) which sits in the passenger footwell.
The 2013 Ford F 150 XLT represents a specific era of American trucking. It’s the bridge between the old-school "work truck" and the modern "luxury land yacht." It has enough technology to be comfortable—like the backup camera integrated into the rearview mirror on some models—but not so much that it feels like an oversized computer.
If you find one with under 120,000 miles, a clean frame, and a documented service history, buy it. It’ll likely outlast the financing term you put on it, and it’ll still be worth a decent chunk of change when you’re ready to move on.
Actionable Maintenance Steps for New Owners
If you just picked one up, do these three things immediately to ensure it hits the 300,000-mile mark. First, install the Fuse 27 relocation kit; it's the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy. Second, if it's an EcoBoost, change the spark plugs and gap them strictly to .030; these engines are "plug-hungry" and will misfire if the gap is even slightly off. Third, spray the underbody with a lanolin-based rust inhibitor like Fluid Film or Woolwax. Steel F-150s die from the bottom up, and stopping the oxidation now is the only way to save the truck long-term.