Why the 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury is the Most Underrated Mopar of the Sixties

Why the 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury is the Most Underrated Mopar of the Sixties

You’re standing at a red light in 1966. To your left, a guy is revving a GTO. To your right, maybe a Mustang. But you? You’re sitting in a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury. You’ve got more chrome, a longer wheelbase, and, if you checked the right boxes at the dealership, a 440 Commando V8 that could move mountains. It wasn't a "muscle car" in the way we talk about them now. It was something else. It was a full-sized executive express with a mean streak.

The 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury exists in a weird spot in automotive history. It’s the middle child. It lacks the legendary status of the '68 Road Runner or the sheer "look at me" energy of a '71 Cuda. But honestly? That’s exactly why people are starting to obsess over them again. You get that massive C-body platform, the legendary torsion-bar suspension, and a cabin that feels like a mid-century modern living room. It’s heavy. It’s wide. It’s basically a land yacht with a jet engine strapped to the hull.

What People Get Wrong About the 1966 Sport Fury

A lot of folks look at a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury and think "family car." Wrong. While the standard Fury I, II, and III were busy hauling groceries and acting as police interceptors, the Sport Fury was Plymouth’s attempt to steal customers away from the Ford Galaxie 500XL and the Chevy Impala SS. It was the top of the food chain.

People often confuse the '66 with the '65. At first glance, they look similar, especially with those stacked headlights. But look closer at the grille. The 1966 model features a more refined, split-grille design that gives it a wider, more aggressive stance. The tail lights changed too. Gone were the small units from '65, replaced by massive, wraparound lenses that screamed "get out of my way" on the interstate.

The Sport Fury came standard with bucket seats and a center console. It was fancy. It was also remarkably fast for its size. Most came with the 318 wide-block or the 383, but the 440 was the king. If you find one with a factory 4-speed manual? That’s the holy grail. Those are rare. Really rare. Most buyers opted for the 727 TorqueFlite automatic because, let's face it, shifting gears in a car this big feels like trying to row a battleship. But that TorqueFlite is bulletproof. It’s arguably the best automatic transmission ever made. Ask any drag racer from the era; they’ll tell you the same thing.

Engineering That Actually Lasts

Mopar in the mid-sixties wasn't just about engines. It was about the chassis. While GM and Ford were still clinging to traditional coil spring front suspensions, Chrysler was all-in on longitudinal torsion bars. This gave the 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury a handling profile that felt much "flatter" than its competitors.

Don't get me wrong. It’s still a 4,000-pound car. You aren't going to win any autocross events in a stock Sport Fury. But on a winding backroad? It doesn't wallow like a Cadillac. It feels planted. It feels deliberate. The Unibody construction—something Chrysler pioneered while others were still using body-on-frame—meant fewer rattles and a stiffer overall structure.

Living With a Giant: The Interior Experience

Opening the door of a Sport Fury is an event. The doors are heavy. They click shut with a metallic finality that modern cars can't replicate. Inside, you're greeted by a dashboard that looks like it belongs in a B-52 bomber. Lots of brushed aluminum. Toggle switches. A speedometer that goes up to 120 mph, which, in a car this size, feels genuinely optimistic and terrifying at the same time.

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The "Sport" in the name really came through in the trim. You had the "Commando" steering wheel with the partial horn ring. The seats were upholstered in high-grade vinyl that, if well-kept, still smells like 1966. There’s enough legroom in the back to host a board meeting. It's the kind of car where you can fit three friends in the back seat and they won't complain once during a four-hour road trip.

Engines: From Mild to Wild

You had choices. Oh, did you have choices.

  • The 318 "Poly": This was the base V8. Reliable? Yes. Exciting? Not really. It’s a workhorse.
  • The 383 B-Series: This is the sweet spot. With a four-barrel carb, it produced around 325 horsepower. It has enough torque to pull a stump out of the ground.
  • The 440 RB-Series: Introduced in '66, this was the monster. 350 horsepower and enough torque to warp the space-time continuum.

If you're looking to buy one today, the 383 is usually the best bet for a driver. Parts are everywhere. It runs on pump gas (mostly). It sounds incredible through a dual exhaust setup. The 440 is for the collectors and the power-hungry, but honestly, even a 318 Sport Fury is a cool cruiser if you just want to go get ice cream on a Saturday night.

The Reality of Owning One Today

Owning a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury in the 2020s isn't all sunshine and burnouts. You have to be realistic. This car is nearly sixty years old. Parts for the drivetrain are easy—Chrysler used the same engines and transmissions for decades. But body panels? Trim? Glass? That’s where things get tricky.

If you dent a fender on a '66 Mustang, you can order a new one from a catalog and have it at your door in two days. If you dent a fender on a Sport Fury, you’re hitting the forums. You’re scouring eBay. You’re walking through dusty junkyards in Arizona hoping to find a donor car. It’s a labor of love.

Rust is the enemy. Specifically in the rear quarter panels and the trunk floors. Because of the Unibody design, if the rear frame rails are rotted, the car is basically a parts donor. Always check the "C-pillars" and the base of the rear window. Water likes to sit there and eat through the metal.

Then there's the fuel economy. Or lack thereof. You're looking at maybe 10 to 12 miles per gallon if you're lucky. If you have a lead foot, you can practically see the fuel gauge needle move. But you don't buy a 1966 Plymouth for the MPG. You buy it for the way people look at you when you rumble past. You buy it for the fact that you'll be the only one at the local car show with one.

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The Collector Market: What's Happening?

For a long time, the C-body Mopars were cheap. You could pick up a decent Sport Fury for five grand all day long. Those days are gone. As the prices of Chargers and Challengers have reached "second mortgage" levels, enthusiasts have started looking elsewhere.

The 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury is seeing a steady climb in value. Convertibles are, obviously, the most expensive. A mint 440 convertible can easily fetch north of $40,000 now. But the hardtops? They’re still attainable. You can find a solid, running project for $12,000 to $18,000.

What's interesting is the "survivor" market. There are still a few of these out there that were owned by little old ladies who drove them to church and back for thirty years. These original-paint, original-interior cars are the ones to watch. They represent a moment in time before cars became plastic and computerized.

Buying Guide: What to Look For

If you’re serious about putting a 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury in your garage, do not rush. These cars are big, and a "cheap" project can become a money pit faster than you can say "Mopar or No Car."

First, verify the VIN. The "P" in the second digit of the VIN indicates a Premium (Sport Fury) model. If it's a "L" or "M," it's a Fury I or II that someone might have slapped Sport Fury badges on. It happens more often than you'd think.

Second, look at the dash. Is it cracked? Replacements are almost impossible to find, and having one restored by a specialist can cost thousands. The same goes for the specific Sport Fury trim pieces. If the "Sport Fury" script is missing from the rear quarters, you're going to spend a lot of time on Moparts.com trying to find a replacement.

Third, check the steering. These cars used a "sector box" power steering system that is notorious for being "vague." If there's three inches of play in the wheel before the tires move, you're looking at a rebuild. It’s fixable, but it’s a hassle.

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Upgrades You Should Actually Do

If you buy one, don't keep it 100% stock unless it’s a museum piece. Modern roads are different than 1966 roads.

  1. Electronic Ignition: Get rid of the old points and condenser. Chrysler’s own electronic ignition kit from the 70s is a direct swap and makes the car much more reliable.
  2. Dual Master Cylinder: The '66 came with a single reservoir master cylinder. If a brake line blows, you lose all your brakes. Switching to a dual reservoir setup is a safety must.
  3. Radial Tires: Bias-ply tires look cool but they drive like garbage. A set of decent radials will make the car feel ten years newer.
  4. LED Dash Lights: The original incandescent bulbs are dim. Replacing them with LEDs means you can actually see how fast you're going at night.

The Cultural Legacy

The 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury represents the peak of American optimism. It was built at a time when gas was thirty cents a gallon and we were going to the moon. It wasn't trying to be subtle. It was big, loud, and proud.

It’s a car that demands respect not because it’s the fastest or the rarest, but because it has character. It has a soul. When you sit behind that wheel, you feel like a different person. You’re not just commuting; you’re navigating.

If you're ready to take the plunge, start by joining the C-Body Dry Dock. It's an online forum dedicated specifically to these big Mopars. The knowledge there is staggering. They can help you decode a fender tag or find a guy in Nebraska who has a spare windshield.

Check Craigslist in smaller towns. Look at Facebook Marketplace, but be prepared to travel. The best cars are often tucked away in garages in the Midwest or the South. Avoid anything that has spent its life in the Northeast salt belt unless you are a master welder.

Practical Steps for Potential Owners:

  • Budget for Chrome: Polishing or re-chroming the massive bumpers on a '66 Fury is expensive. Factor this into your purchase price.
  • Garage Space: Measure your garage. Seriously. This car is nearly 18 feet long. It won't fit in a standard modern "compact" garage spot.
  • Fuel Additives: Unless the engine has been rebuilt with hardened valve seats, you'll want to use a lead substitute or high-octane fuel to protect the heads.
  • Cooling System: The C-bodies have a lot of engine bay space, but they can still run hot in traffic. A high-quality aluminum radiator is a smart "stealth" upgrade for peace of mind.

The 1966 Plymouth Sport Fury isn't for everyone. It’s for the person who wants a muscle car but grew up. It’s for the person who appreciates the lines of a classic coupe but needs enough room to actually carry people. It’s a statement. And in a world of silver crossovers that all look the same, it’s a statement worth making.