You see it in music videos. You see it bouncing on hydraulics in East L.A. You see it gleaming under the lights of high-end auctions like Barrett-Jackson, where the gavel drops at prices that would make a banker sweat. The 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible isn’t just a car; it's basically the unofficial mascot of American car culture. It’s the bridge between the chrome-heavy 50s and the raw muscle of the late 60s. Honestly, if you closed your eyes and tried to picture a "cool vintage car," there’s a 90% chance your brain just summoned a '64 SS.
It was the end of an era. This was the final year of the third-generation body style. Chevrolet knew they had a hit on their hands, but they probably didn't realize they were creating a permanent icon. The lines are cleaner than the '63. The "X" frame was still there, providing that heavy, boat-like float that modern cars just can't replicate. It’s a massive piece of metal. It’s over 17 feet long. Yet, somehow, with the top down and the sun hitting that rear decklid, it looks agile.
What Actually Makes a 1964 Impala Super Sport Convertible a "Real" SS?
There is a lot of confusion out there. You’ll see plenty of "tribute" cars or clones. People take a base 1964 Impala, slap some badges on it, and try to upcharge you twenty grand. But a factory-born 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible has a specific DNA.
First, look at the VIN. For 1964, the Super Sport became its own separate series. If the first four digits of the VIN are 1467, you’re looking at a real-deal SS convertible. If it starts with 1867, it's a V8 non-SS. If it’s 1767, it was a 6-cylinder car. Details matter. Inside, you should find front bucket seats and a center console. That console is crucial. It’s brushed aluminum and houses the floor shifter if you’ve got the 4-speed manual or the Powerglide automatic.
The trim is the giveaway. The '64 SS has that distinct swirl-patterned engine-turned aluminum strip running along the side. It’s subtle but expensive-looking. Then there’s the badging—those "SS" emblems on the rear fenders and the glovebox. If the car has a bench seat but "SS" badges on the outside, someone is playing games with you.
Mechanically, you could get a wide range of power. Most came with the 283-cubic-inch V8, which was reliable but, frankly, a bit sleepy. Then you stepped up to the 327 small-block. But the king? That was the 409. The dual-quad 409-cubic-inch V8 pumped out 425 horsepower. That’s the engine Beach Boys songs were written about. Finding a genuine 409 SS convertible today is like finding a unicorn that also happens to be a championship athlete.
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The Lowrider Connection: Why This Specific Year?
If you ask a lowrider why they prefer the '64 over the '63 or the '65, they’ll usually point to the trunk and the frame. The 1964 model year is the holy grail for the "low and slow" community.
Why? It’s the boxy rear end. The three-taillight setup on each side is legendary. When you put a 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible on its frame using hydraulics, those six taillights look meaner than anything else on the street. Also, the 1964 frame is notoriously stout. It can handle the stress of "hopping" or "dancing" better than the perimeter frames found in the 1965 and later models.
Cultural icons like Dr. Dre and Eazy-E didn't pick the '64 by accident. It represented a specific kind of West Coast defiance. It was a luxury car turned into a street warrior. Even if you aren't into hydraulics, you have to respect the engineering that allows a car this heavy to look that graceful when it's slammed to the pavement.
Engines, Options, and the Stuff That Breaks
Let's talk reality. These cars are sixty years old. Unless you're buying a $150,000 rotisserie restoration, you're going to deal with some quirks.
- The Power Top: It's heavy. The hydraulic pumps often leak or just give up. If you hear a whining sound but the roof isn't moving, check your fluid levels in the trunk-mounted reservoir.
- Rust Areas: Look at the "smile" under the rear bumper. Look at the floor pans. Look at the trunk—specifically where the spare tire sits. These cars were not galvanized. They love to oxidize.
- The X-Frame: While great for lowriding, the X-frame offers almost zero side-impact protection. Drive defensively.
- The Transmission: The two-speed Powerglide is bulletproof but boring. It feels like it takes a week to shift. Many owners swap these out for a modern 700R4 or a Tremec 5-speed to make the car actually drivable on 2026 highways.
The 409 engine is a masterpiece, but it’s thirsty. Very thirsty. We're talking 8 to 10 miles per gallon if you're lucky. And parts for a 409 aren't something you can just pick up at a local AutoZone. You'll be scouring specialist catalogs and paying the "big block tax" for every bolt.
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Market Value: What Should You Pay?
Prices for a 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible have gone through the roof lately. It used to be a car you could find in a barn for five grand. Those days are gone.
A "project" car that needs everything—engine work, interior, paint—will still set you back $15,000 to $25,000.
A nice, "driver quality" 327 SS convertible is currently hovering between $50,000 and $75,000.
If you want a numbers-matching 409 car in a desirable color like Ember Red or Silver Blue? Be prepared to shell out $120,000 or more.
Is it worth it?
Well, cars are rarely "investments" in the way stocks are, but the '64 Impala is one of the few that holds its value regardless of the economy. It has a global market. Collectors in Japan, Europe, and Australia are constantly hunting for these. Demand isn't going down because they aren't making more of them.
Buying Advice: How to Avoid Getting Burned
If you are seriously looking to put a 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible in your garage, do not buy the first one you see on Facebook Marketplace.
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Check the cowl tag. This is the little metal plate on the firewall under the hood. It tells you the original paint color, the interior trim, and the build date. If the cowl tag says the car was originally white with a blue interior, but it's currently red with black seats, you have a "color change" car. That’s fine for a cruiser, but it kills the resale value for collectors.
Look at the trim. Replacing missing SS trim is a nightmare. It’s expensive and some of the reproduction stuff fits like garbage. You want a car that is as complete as possible.
Test the windows. On a convertible, the window alignment is everything. If the glass doesn't seal properly against the weatherstripping, your interior will rot the first time it rains.
Actionable Next Steps for Enthusiasts
- Verify the Series: Before talking money, check the VIN for that "1467" prefix. If it’s not there, it’s not a factory Super Sport convertible.
- Inspect the Frame: Get the car on a lift. Check the center of the "X" for cracks or previous repair welds, especially if it has ever had hydraulics.
- Join the Community: Sign up for the ChevyTalk forums or join the National Impala Association. These guys have forgotten more about the '64 than most mechanics will ever know.
- Budget for Modernization: Unless you're a purist, plan to upgrade to front disc brakes and an aluminum radiator. Stopping a two-ton car with 60-year-old drum brakes is a terrifying experience in modern traffic.
- Secure Storage: A convertible top is a security vulnerability. If you don't have a locked garage, don't buy this car.
The 1964 Impala Super Sport convertible is the ultimate statement piece. It says you appreciate design, you value history, and you aren't afraid to take up a little extra space on the road. It’s loud, it’s long, and it’s perfect. Just make sure you know exactly what you’re buying before you sign the title.