If you close your eyes and think about a classic American car, you’re probably seeing a 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport. It’s unavoidable. It is the silhouette of an entire era. Whether it’s bouncing on hydraulics in a Dr. Dre video or sitting pristine under the lights of a Barrett-Jackson auction, the '64 SS is the definitive full-size Chevy. It wasn't the fastest car of the sixties. It wasn't the most technologically advanced either. But honestly? It didn't have to be. It had presence.
Most people don't realize that 1964 was actually the end of the line for the third-generation body style. Chevrolet was about to pivot toward the more rounded, "Coke-bottle" styling of 1965, but they decided to go out with a literal bang. They took the boxy, sharp-edged aesthetic of the early sixties and refined it until it was razor-sharp. The 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport became a masterpiece of "less is more." Gone was the excessive chrome of the fifties. In its place was a lean, mean, and surprisingly sophisticated look that still turns heads sixty years later.
What Actually Makes an SS a Real SS?
You’d be surprised how many people get fooled by a fake badge. Back in '64, the Super Sport (SS) was a specific appearance and performance package, but it wasn't just a sticker. To identify a true 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport, you have to look at the trim. A genuine SS featured that beautiful engine-turned silver swirl pattern on the rear garnish molding and the side strips. If you see woodgrain or plain paint there, someone's probably pulling your leg.
Inside, the SS was all about the "cockpit" feel. You got front bucket seats—which was a big deal for a car this wide—and a center console that looked like it belonged in a private jet. The floor shifter was a must-have for the "cool factor," even if the car was just equipped with a Powerglide automatic. Collectors today obsess over the "matching numbers" aspect, especially with the VIN. In 1964, the VIN started with a specific set of digits (41447 for the V8 SS Coupe) that proved it left the factory as a Super Sport.
There's a weird myth that every SS had a massive engine. Not true. You could actually get a 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport with a 230 cubic-inch inline-six. Imagine that. A car that looks that aggressive, putting out about 140 horsepower. It’s kind of funny when you think about it, but Chevrolet knew that some people just wanted the look without the gas bill. Of course, most buyers had the sense to opt for the V8s, ranging from the reliable 283 to the legendary 409.
The 409: Real Power or Just a Song?
"She's real fine, my 409." The Beach Boys weren't lying. While the 327 small-block was arguably the better "everyday" engine because it was lighter and more nimble, the 409-cubic-inch big-block was the king of the mountain. By 1964, the 409 was reaching its peak. You could get it in three flavors: 340, 400, or the fire-breathing 425 horsepower version.
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The 425-hp 409 featured dual four-barrel Carter AFB carburetors. It was a beast. It turned the heavy Impala into a legitimate drag strip threat. However, here is the nuance most "experts" miss: the 409 was a "W-series" engine. It had a unique combustion chamber design where the chamber was actually in the cylinder block, not the head. This made it incredibly torquey but also a bit of a nightmare to keep cool under heavy stress.
Driving one today is an exercise in muscle memory. The steering is over-assisted. The brakes—if they are still the original drums—feel like they’re made of wet cardboard when you’re trying to stop 3,500 pounds of steel. But when you stomp on that pedal and those dual quads open up? The sound is visceral. It’s a deep, mechanical roar that modern turbocharged cars just can't replicate. It’s not "refined." It’s loud, it’s shaky, and it’s perfect.
Why the Lowrider Community Claimed the '64
You cannot talk about the 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport without talking about Los Angeles. Specifically, the Chicano lowrider culture. Why this specific year? Why not the '63 or the '65?
It basically comes down to the frame. The 1964 model used an "X-frame" design. Unlike a traditional perimeter frame that runs along the edges of the car, the X-frame narrows in the middle. This design was actually a bit of a safety flaw in side-impact crashes, but for lowriders, it was a godsend. It allowed the car to be dropped much lower to the ground than cars with perimeter frames.
The rear suspension setup was also ideal for hydraulics. The three-link rear with a Panhard bar made it relatively easy to install pumps and dumps that could lift the car or make it hop. But beyond the mechanics, there’s the aesthetics. The 1964’s trim lines are perfectly horizontal. When you paint a multi-colored flake or candy pattern on a '64, those long, straight lines act like a canvas. It looks fast even when it’s sitting an inch off the asphalt.
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Real World Values: What Should You Pay?
If you’re looking to buy a 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport right now, prepare for some sticker shock. The days of finding a "barn find" SS for five grand are mostly over. Prices have skyrocketed because the demand comes from three different directions: traditional hot rodders, the lowrider community, and high-end collectors.
- The Project Car: A rusted-out SS that needs everything will still run you $10,000 to $15,000. Why? Because the VIN alone is worth money to someone doing a frame-off restoration.
- The Clean Driver: A car with a 327 engine, decent paint, and a clean interior usually sits between $35,000 and $50,000.
- The 409 Holy Grail: If you find a true, documented 409/425-hp car with a 4-speed manual, you are looking at $80,000 to well over $120,000.
A big mistake buyers make is ignoring the "X-code" or "trim tag" under the hood. People swap bodies onto SS frames all the time. If the cowl tag doesn't match the interior bucket seat brackets, you're looking at a "tribute" car, not a real Super Sport. Always check the floor pans too. These cars loved to rust right where the driver's feet sit, especially if the window seals leaked—and they always leaked.
Maintenance and the "Day Two" Philosophy
Owning a 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport is a lifestyle choice. You're going to spend a lot of time with a wrench in your hand. Parts availability is actually great—you can basically build a whole new car from a catalog—but getting the fit and finish right is the hard part.
Many owners follow the "Day Two" modification style. This means only adding parts that would have been available at a local speed shop the day after the car was bought in 1964. Think Cragar S/S wheels, Hurst shifters, and maybe a set of Sunpro gauges under the dash. It keeps the soul of the car intact while making it a bit more drivable.
If you’re planning on actually driving yours, the first thing you should do is ditch the original generator for a modern alternator. The old generators couldn't keep up with the headlights, wipers, and a modern stereo all at once. Also, upgrade to electronic ignition. Dealing with "points and condenser" is a romantic idea until you're stuck on the side of the 405 in July because your gap closed up.
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The Cultural Weight of a Legend
It’s rare for a machine to become a symbol of a subculture, but the '64 Impala did it. It represents a specific type of American cool that isn't about being the most expensive or the most exclusive. It's about "cruising." It’s a social car. You don't drive an SS to get from point A to point B. You drive it to be seen.
The 1964 Chevrolet Impala Super Sport holds its value because it’s a bridge between eras. It has the dignity of a luxury cruiser and the attitude of a muscle car. It’s the last of the "straight-edge" Chevys before everything got curvy and experimental in the late sixties.
Actionable Steps for Prospective Owners:
If you are serious about getting into the 1964 SS market, don't just browse eBay. Start by joining the Late Great Chevys club or similar owner forums. Real-world experts like those at Eckler’s or Late Great Chevy provide parts and advice that are invaluable.
- Verify the VIN: Ensure the 3rd and 4th digits are "14" (for the V8 SS).
- Inspect the X-Frame: Check the center intersection of the frame for "soft spots" or amateur weld repairs from old hydraulic setups.
- Check the Trim: Ensure the "engine-turned" aluminum trim is present and not pitted, as original pieces are getting very expensive to refurbish.
- Test the Powerglide: If it's an automatic, make sure it shifts firmly; these two-speed transmissions are bulletproof but can be sluggish if the vacuum modulator is failing.
Owning a '64 isn't just about the car; it's about preserving a piece of mid-century industrial art. It takes work, but the first time you cruise at sunset with those six round taillights glowing in the rearview mirror, you'll realize it was worth every penny.