It’s loud. It’s cramped. If it rains, you’re basically sitting in a bathtub with a steering wheel. Yet, for some reason, the 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck remains one of the most lusted-after vehicles in the pre-war hobby.
Henry Ford was a stubborn man. Everyone knows that. He clung to the Model T until the company was practically hemorrhaging market share to Chevrolet and Dodge. When he finally shut down the plants in 1927 to retool for the Model A, the world held its breath. What emerged in late '27 and early '28 wasn't just a car; it was a mechanical bridge between the horse-and-buggy era and the modern automotive age.
The roadster pickup—or "RPU" as the cool kids in the hot rod scene call it—is a weird hybrid. It’s got the sporty, wind-in-your-hair vibe of a convertible roadster but the blue-collar utility of a work truck. In 1928, this wasn't a "lifestyle" vehicle. It was a tool. Farmers used them. Plumbers used them. Today, we treat them like rolling pieces of fine art, which is kind of hilarious if you’ve ever actually tried to shift an original unsynchronized three-speed transmission on a steep hill.
What Most People Get Wrong About the 1928 Launch
If you walk around a car show, you’ll hear guys swearing up and down that every 1928 Model A is the same. They aren’t.
Early 1928 was a chaotic time at Ford. They were figuring it out as they went. The 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck produced in the first few months of the year—often called "Early '28s"—have specific quirks that drive collectors absolutely bananas. We’re talking about the "AR" features.
For instance, the very early versions had a power take-off (PTO) opening on the transmission and a different brake handle position. If you find a roadster pickup with the handbrake located on the far left side of the driver, you’ve found a holy grail. Most people think the brake was always in the center. Nope. Ford moved it because it was a pain in the neck to reach.
Then there’s the cooling system. The 1928 models used a multi-blade fan that was notorious for shattering and sending shards of metal through the hood like shrapnel. If you're looking at a surviving truck today, it likely has the later, safer two-blade fan. It's these tiny, messy details that define the '28. It wasn't perfect. It was a work in progress.
The Engineering Behind the 40-Horsepower "Beast"
Let’s talk about the engine. Under that center-hinged hood sits a 200.5 cubic inch inline four-cylinder. It produces a whopping 40 horsepower.
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That sounds pathetic by 2026 standards, right? Your lawnmower might have more pep. But the Model A engine was a torque monster for its size. It was designed to pull a bed full of milk crates out of a muddy field, not to win drag races on the interstate.
The 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck utilized a Zenith carburetor and a gravity-fed fuel system. Think about that for a second. The gas tank is literally sitting in the cowl, right behind the engine and right in front of your knees. There is no fuel pump. Gravity does the work. It’s simple. It’s elegant. It’s also slightly terrifying if you think about it too hard during a front-end collision.
One thing that really set the '28 apart from the outgoing Model T was the cooling. It actually had a water pump! The Model T relied on "thermosyphon" (basically hot water rises, cold water sinks), which worked... until it didn't. The Model A's pump made it a much more reliable beast for long hauls in the summer heat.
Why the Roadster Body Style Is a Nightmare (and Why We Love It)
The 76-A body code. That’s the official designation for the open-cab pickup.
Honestly, it’s a terrible design for a work truck. Think about it. If you’re a contractor in 1928 and it starts snowing, you’re miserable. You have "side curtains" which are basically pieces of fabric with yellowing celluloid windows that snap onto the body. They leak. They flap in the wind. They offer about as much insulation as a wet paper bag.
But man, do they look good.
The silhouette of the 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck is iconic. It has that short, stubby bed—the "early" beds were actually shorter than the ones that came later in 1931—and the flowing fenders that define the era.
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Key Visual Identifiers of the '28 RPU:
- The Radiator Shell: It’s nickel-plated, not chrome. Chrome didn't really become the standard for Ford until later. The '28 shell has a distinct, warm yellowish tint compared to the blue-ish hue of modern chrome.
- The Wheels: 21-inch wire wheels. They are skinnier than the 19-inch versions found on the 1930-31 models. These tall wheels give the truck a spindly, "high-boy" look that enthusiasts crave.
- The Tailgate: It has the "Ford" script, but it’s smaller and more understated than the giant stampings you see on later trucks.
- The Drum Headlights: In 1928, the headlight buckets were shaped like drums. By 1929, they started transitioning to a more aerodynamic "acorn" shape.
The Hot Rod Connection: A Double-Edged Sword
You can't talk about the 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck without talking about the guys with torches and welders.
In the late 1940s and 50s, these trucks were dirt cheap. Returning GIs wanted to go fast. They’d rip out the 40-hp four-banger and drop in a Flathead V8. They’d "channel" the body over the frame to make it sit lower.
This is why finding an "uncut" 1928 RPU is so incredibly difficult today. Most of them were turned into hot rods decades ago. While a "traditional" hot rod build is a piece of history in its own right, the purist market for a bone-stock, 21-inch-wheeled '28 is skyrocketing.
If you see a 1928 roadster pickup at a high-end auction like RM Sotheby’s or Barrett-Jackson, pay attention to the frame. A real 1928 frame has specific forgings and weight-saving holes that later frames didn't have. If it’s a "bitsa" (bits of this, bits of that), the value drops significantly.
Driving the Legend (Bring Your Earplugs)
Driving a 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck is a physical workout. There is no power steering. There are no power brakes. In fact, the brakes are mechanical.
When you step on the pedal, you aren't pushing fluid through lines; you’re pulling steel rods that expand shoes inside the drums. If they aren't adjusted perfectly, the truck will dart to the left or right like a startled rabbit.
The clutch is heavy. The gears will grind if you don't double-clutch like a pro. And because it's a roadster, the wind noise at 45 mph—which is about as fast as you ever want to go—is deafening.
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But there’s a soul to it. You feel every vibration of the engine. You smell the faint scent of gasoline and old leather. You are part of the machine. In a world of self-driving EVs, the Model A is the ultimate antidote to boredom.
Real-World Values: What Should You Actually Pay?
Prices for the 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck are all over the map. It’s not like buying a used Camry.
- The "Barn Find" ($8,000 - $12,000): Expect a lot of rust in the "sub-rails" (the structure holding the body together). If the engine is stuck, you’re looking at a full rebuild.
- The Older Restoration ($15,000 - $22,000): This is the sweet spot. It was restored in the 80s or 90s. It has some chips in the paint. It runs, but it probably leaks oil. This is a "driver" quality truck.
- The Show Stopper ($35,000 - $50,000+): We’re talking points-judged restorations. Correct Ni-silver plating. Correct "Pyroxylin" lacquer-style finish. Every nut and bolt is correct for the month of 1928 it was produced.
The rarity of the roadster pickup body compared to the standard Tudor sedan or Coupe makes it a blue-chip investment in the pre-war world.
Maintenance Facts Most Owners Ignore
If you buy one of these, you become a mechanic by default.
You have to grease the chassis every 500 miles. There are about 30 grease nipples (Zerk fittings) hidden all over the place. If you ignore them, the kingpins will seize, and you won’t be able to turn the wheels.
Also, the oiling system is "splash and gravity." There is no modern oil filter. You should change the oil every 500 to 1,000 miles because the soot just sits in the pan.
Most importantly: Check your timing. The lever on the left side of the steering wheel controls the spark advance. If you try to start the truck with the spark advanced, the engine can kick back and literally break the starter motor or your arm if you’re hand-cranking it. Always retard the spark before you hit the starter button on the floor.
Actionable Next Steps for Aspiring Owners
If you're serious about getting behind the wheel of a 1928 Ford Model A roadster pickup truck, don't just jump on eBay.
- Join the MARC or MAFCA: The Model A Restorers Club and the Model A Ford Club of America are the two biggest groups. Their classifieds are where the real trucks live, not the overpriced fluff on general auction sites.
- Inspect the "Sub-Rails": On a roadster, the body gets its strength from the floor structure. If the sub-rails are rotted (common in RPUs because rain gets in the open top), the doors won't stay latched and the body will sag. Fixing this requires a total teardown.
- Check the Engine Number: The motor number should technically match the frame number, but in 1928, Ford was swapping engines constantly. A "matching numbers" Model A is rare and carries a massive premium.
- Verify the Title: Many of these trucks have "assigned" VINs or titles that don't match the frame. Ensure the paperwork is clean before handing over any cash, as vintage vehicle registration laws have become much stricter in the last five years.
- Learn to Double-Clutch: Before you go for a test drive, watch some videos on non-synchronized transmissions. You will embarrass yourself and potentially damage the "tower" gears if you don't understand the rhythm of the shift.
The 1928 Model A RPU is a loud, bouncy, temperamental piece of American history. It requires more attention than a newborn puppy. But on a crisp fall morning, with the top down and that four-cylinder chugging along a backroad, there isn't another vehicle on earth that feels quite as alive.