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Food is never just food. Especially when it ends up in the New York Times. You probably remember the frenzy—the social media storm where a single piece of bacon nyt readers couldn't stop talking about became a symbol for everything wrong with modern dining, inflation, and high-society elitism. It wasn't just a side dish. It was a $15 statement.
Honestly, it’s kind of wild how a strip of cured pork can trigger a national meltdown.
We are talking about the infamous thick-cut bacon at Peter Luger Steak House. For years, Luger was the untouchable gold standard of Brooklyn dining. Then, the Times critic Pete Wells dropped a zero-star review that shook the industry. He didn't just dislike the steak; he went after the bacon. He described it as something that tasted like "cold leftovers."
The $15 Piece of Bacon NYT Critics Love to Hate
When people search for that specific piece of bacon nyt moment, they’re usually looking for the "Sizzling Bacon" appetizer at Peter Luger. In the world of New York City steakhouses, this isn't your grocery store thin-slice stuff. It's a slab. A hunk. It’s supposed to be the platonic ideal of pork fat.
But Wells changed the narrative. He argued that the restaurant was coasting on a reputation it no longer earned. He noted that the bacon, which costs more than a decent lunch at most places, was often served dry or pre-cooked and reheated. That's the kicker. When you pay a premium, you expect the sizzle to be real.
Think about the psychology of a $15 strip of bacon. You aren't paying for the calories. You're paying for the "theatricality" of the steakhouse experience. When the New York Times pulls back the curtain and says the wizard is actually just serving mediocre breakfast meat, the illusion shatters. It’s why the review went viral. It confirmed everyone's secret fear: that we’re being overcharged for nostalgia.
Why the Price Tag Became a Cultural Flashpoint
Inflation hasn't helped. Since that review and subsequent follow-ups, the cost of dining out has skyrocketed. People see a single piece of bacon nyt mentioned and they immediately associate it with the "luxury tax" of city living.
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Is it fair? Maybe not. Luger still has lines out the door. Some regulars swear the bacon is as good as it was in 1985. But the Times has a way of setting the "vibe" for the entire country's culinary standards. When they pounce on a detail—like the texture of a pork strip—it becomes shorthand for "out of touch."
Let’s look at the numbers. At the time of the most famous critiques, a single slice was hovering around $6 to $7. Now, with "market pricing" and the general chaos of the supply chain, seeing it reach double digits for one slice isn't uncommon in high-end spots. That is a 400% markup on a raw ingredient that costs pennies.
The Science of a Perfect Slab
What should a piece of bacon nyt foodies actually enjoy taste like? According to J. Kenji López-Alt and other food science heavyweights, it's about the rendering of the intramuscular fat.
- The fat must be translucent, not white.
- The edges should have a "shatter" crispness.
- The center needs to retain a meaty, ham-like chew.
Most commercial kitchens fail because they rush the process. They precook slabs in the morning and "flash" them in a high-heat broiler when the order comes in. This dries out the meat. It turns the fat into something rubbery. Pete Wells caught them doing exactly this. It’s a shortcut. And at those prices, shortcuts feel like a betrayal.
Beyond Peter Luger: The Bacon Trend That Won’t Die
The piece of bacon nyt obsession isn't limited to one steakhouse. The Times has documented the "Bacon-ification" of America for two decades. Remember the chocolate-covered bacon craze? Or the bacon-infused bourbon?
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We've moved past the "put bacon on everything" phase into the "artisanal slab" phase. Chefs like David Chang and others have tried to elevate the ingredient, but the Times often acts as the reality check. They remind us that sometimes, it's just a greasy slice of pig.
There's a specific kind of "New York cynicism" reflected in these reviews. It’s the idea that we are all being played. Whether it's a $200 gold-leaf burger or a $15 piece of bacon, the Times food section loves to poke holes in the hype. It’s service journalism, but with a side of snark.
How to Tell if You're Getting Ripped Off
Next time you see "Signature Slab Bacon" on a menu for the price of a movie ticket, look for these red flags:
- The Temperature Gradient: If the outside is scorching but the center is lukewarm, it was precooked and nuked or flashed.
- The "Sweat": Good bacon shouldn't be sitting in a pool of yellow oil on the plate. That means it wasn't drained properly after the second cook.
- The Smoke Profile: If it tastes like liquid smoke rather than actual wood fire, it’s cheap wholesale meat masquerading as craft.
The Legacy of the Review
That specific piece of bacon nyt piece changed how restaurants handle "the basics." It forced legendary institutions to realize they aren't bulletproof. You can’t just rely on a black-and-white photo of a celebrity from 1974 to justify a mediocre plate of food in 2026.
The internet doesn't forget. Every time someone posts a photo of a lonely, expensive strip of bacon on Instagram, the ghost of that New York Times review is there in the comments. It became a meme. It became a warning.
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Actually, the most interesting thing is how Peter Luger responded. Or rather, how they didn't. They kept the floors sawdusty. They kept the "cash only" (mostly) vibe. They kept the bacon. They leaned into the "take it or leave it" attitude that made them famous in the first place. Some call it arrogance; others call it brand consistency.
How to Make "NYT Quality" Bacon at Home
If you want to avoid the $15 disappointment, you can actually replicate the "steakhouse slab" at home without the pretension. You just need the right technique.
Stop frying it in a pan. Seriously.
The secret to that specific piece of bacon nyt texture—the one they should be serving—is the oven. Start with a cold oven. Lay thick-cut slices on a wire rack over a baking sheet. Set the temperature to 400 degrees. As the oven heats up, the fat renders slowly. By the time it reaches temp, the bacon is swimming in its own glory. It takes about 18 to 22 minutes.
It comes out perfectly flat. Perfectly crisp. No rubbery bits.
What to do next
If you're still curious about the state of high-end dining, go back and read the original Pete Wells review titled "Peter Luger Used to Be the Best Steakhouse in New York." It is a masterclass in descriptive takedowns.
Alternatively, head to a local butcher—not a supermarket—and ask for "belly-on" slab bacon. Slice it yourself, at least half an inch thick. Compare it to the photos you see in the Times. You’ll realize pretty quickly that the best piece of bacon nyt readers ever saw was probably the one they made in their own cast iron skillet on a Sunday morning.
The real lesson here? Price doesn't equal quality. In a world of $15 side dishes, the most "luxury" thing you can do is know when you're being sold a story instead of a meal.