You've seen it. Honestly, you've probably seen it a hundred times by now on TikTok, Instagram, or dangling from the neck of a celebrity during a paparazzi run in Soho. It is the Vivienne Westwood Bas Relief choker—the iconic pearl necklace with planet charm that has basically become the unofficial uniform of the "clean girl" aesthetic and the "e-girl" subculture simultaneously.
Fashion moves fast. It’s brutal. Most trends die in six months, buried under the weight of the next micro-trend. But the orb? It’s different. It’s stayed relevant for decades.
The Vivienne Westwood "orb" isn't actually a planet, though everyone calls it that. It’s a mix of British royal iconography and outer space. It features the Sovereign’s Orb—part of the British Crown Jewels—surrounded by the rings of Saturn. It’s a weird, beautiful contradiction. It’s tradition meeting the future.
The History Behind the Pearl Necklace With Planet
Vivienne Westwood didn’t just wake up and decide to put Saturn on a string of pearls. The story goes back to the late 1980s. Westwood was working on a collection that explored the idea of taking British tradition into the future. She was looking at deep-sky photography and magazines about astronomy while also studying the regalia of the monarchy.
She took the orb, which represents the world and the power of the church/state, and she slapped the rings of Saturn around it. It was a punk rock move. It was her way of saying "the past is going to space."
The first time the pearl necklace with planet charm really hit the mainstream consciousness was in the "Portrait" collection of 1990. These weren't the dainty, plastic-looking things you see in fast-fashion knockoffs today. They were heavy, sculptural, and unapologetically bold. Westwood used Swarovski pearls—which are actually high-quality crystal cores coated in a realistic pearlescent material—to give the pieces weight and luster.
Why the Orb Design Exploded Recently
It’s easy to blame (or credit) TikTok, but there is more to it. The "Mini Bas Relief" choker became the "it" item during the 2020 lockdowns. It was the perfect Zoom accessory. It’s visible from the chest up. It makes a statement without being too much.
Then came the "NANA" connection.
Ai Yazawa’s legendary manga and anime series, NANA, features characters who are obsessed with Vivienne Westwood. The protagonist, Nana Osaki, is a punk singer who wears the brand religiously. As a new generation of Gen Z discovered NANA through streaming platforms, the demand for the orb necklace skyrocketed. It wasn’t just about jewelry anymore; it was about identifying with a specific, edgy, melancholic lifestyle.
People like Bella Hadid, Dua Lipa, and Rihanna started wearing them. When Rihanna wears something, the conversation is over. It’s a trend.
But here is the thing: because it’s so popular, the market is flooded with fakes. If you see a "pearl necklace with planet" on a random social media ad for $15, it is 100% not a Vivienne Westwood piece. The real ones retail for significantly more and have specific weight and hallmarking that cheap zinc-alloy replicas just can’t mimic.
Realism vs. Aesthetic: What Kind of Pearls Are Used?
In the world of fine jewelry, "pearl" usually means something grown inside a mollusk. However, Westwood’s most famous planet necklaces are costume jewelry. They use vegan pearls.
Most people don't realize this.
They expect "real" pearls for the price point, but Westwood was always more interested in the look and the art than the traditional value of the materials. The pearls are typically hand-knotted on silk thread. This is a hallmark of quality. If the string breaks, you don't lose all your pearls; they stay attached to the thread because of the knots between them.
How to Tell if Yours is Legit
- The Weight: Real Bas Relief chokers have a surprising heft. If it feels like light plastic, it’s a dud.
- The Clasp: Look for a small, oval-shaped metal tab near the clasp. It should have "Vivienne Westwood" engraved on one side and a tiny orb on the other.
- The "Planet" Detail: On authentic pieces, the Saturn ring is crisp. The "satellites" or small crystals embedded in the orb are set securely, not just glued on haphazardly.
- The Packaging: It should come in a grey or tan box with a felt drawstring pouch and a small care card.
Styling the Pearl Necklace With Planet
You don't have to be a punk to wear this. That’s the magic.
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You can wear it with a plain white T-shirt and jeans to elevate a basic look. Or, you can go full "coquette" with a lace dress and ribbons. Because pearls are traditionally "proper" and the planet/orb is "rebellious," the necklace works with almost any style. It bridges the gap between your grandmother's jewelry box and a sci-fi movie.
A lot of people are layering them now. They’ll take the single-strand planet necklace and pair it with a longer gold chain or a heavy silver choker. It creates this messy, maximalist vibe that is very popular in 2026.
Sustainability and Ethics in Costume Jewelry
Let’s talk about the elephant in the room. A lot of the hype around the pearl necklace with planet has led to a massive surge in fast-fashion "dupes." These cheap versions are often made in factories with zero oversight, using materials that can irritate the skin (hello, nickel) and end up in a landfill within months.
Vivienne Westwood, as a brand, has a complicated relationship with sustainability. The late Dame Vivienne herself was a massive climate activist. She famously said, "Buy less, choose well, make it last."
If you want the look, save up for the real thing or buy a vintage piece. Buying a $5 knockoff of a planet necklace is the opposite of what the Westwood brand actually stands for. Vintage or second-hand sites like Depop, Vestiaire Collective, and The RealReal are packed with these necklaces because they were produced in such high volumes in the early 2020s.
The Cultural Impact
The orb isn't just a logo. It represents a specific era of British fashion history. When you wear a pearl necklace with a planet, you’re tapping into the legacy of the 1970s punk movement, the 1980s New Romantic scene, and the 1990s high-fashion boom.
It’s one of the few pieces of jewelry that is instantly recognizable from across a room. It’s a signal. It says you know about fashion history, or at least that you’ve been paying attention to the right corners of the internet.
Actionable Steps for Your Jewelry Collection
If you’re looking to add this specific aesthetic to your wardrobe without just following a dying trend, here is how to do it right.
First, decide on the metal tone. The silver-tone orb is the classic, but the gold-tone version feels a bit more "old money" and looks better against warmer skin tones.
Second, check the length. The most popular version is a choker, roughly 15 to 16 inches. If you have a wider neck, you might find it uncomfortable. Westwood does make longer versions, often called the "Grace" necklace, which sits lower on the collarbone.
Third, maintain it. Because these are Swarovski pearls and not solid gold, they can be damaged by perfume and hairspray. The chemicals can eat away at the pearlescent coating. Always put your necklace on after you’ve finished your hair and makeup. Wipe it down with a soft, dry cloth after wearing it to remove any skin oils.
Fourth, consider the "three-strand" version if you want a true statement piece. This was the one worn by Janelle Monáe and others that really leans into the Victorian-punk aesthetic. It’s more expensive, but it’s a genuine work of art that holds its value much better than the single-strand versions.
Finally, don't be afraid to mix brands. The "planet" look is a vibe. You can find independent designers on platforms like Etsy who create celestial-themed jewelry using real freshwater pearls and recycled silver. While it won't be the "official" Westwood orb, it captures the same spirit of blending the sea (pearls) with the stars (planets) in a way that is unique to you.