Why temper restaurant london soho is still the best place for a loud, smoky dinner

Why temper restaurant london soho is still the best place for a loud, smoky dinner

You smell it before you see it. Honestly, if you’re walking down Broadwick Street and you don’t catch that hit of burning hickory and rendering fat, you might need to check your sinuses. That’s the first thing about temper restaurant london soho. It isn’t some polite, dainty bistro where you whisper over a glass of Riesling. It’s loud. It’s dark. It’s centered around a massive, glowing fire pit that looks like something out of a medieval forge.

Most people think "barbecue" and imagine sticky ribs in a shed. Temper isn’t that.

It’s a basement. A basement filled with chefs hacking away at massive carcasses and throwing huge slabs of meat onto open flames right in front of your face. It’s visceral. When Neil Rankin first opened this place years ago, he basically flipped the bird to the traditional steakhouse model. No pre-cut portions. No hidden kitchens. Just whole-animal butchery and a lot of fire.

The chaos of the counter seat

If you book a table at temper restaurant london soho, you’re doing it wrong.

Okay, that’s harsh. The booths are fine. But the counter is where the actual magic happens. You’re sitting inches away from the grill. You feel the heat on your cheeks. You watch the chefs juggle tacos and cleavers. It’s chaotic, but it’s a controlled, professional kind of chaos that makes your local burger joint look like a library.

The menu is a weird, beautiful hybrid. It’s not purely Mexican, though the tacos are legendary. It’s not a classic British steakhouse, though they take their beef more seriously than almost anyone in the city. It’s basically a temple to smoke. They buy the whole animal—usually from small, independent farms like Lyons Hill—and they use every single bit of it.

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That matters. It’s not just a marketing gimmick about "sustainability." It actually changes how the food tastes. Because they butcher on-site, the fat content and the freshness of the cuts are different from what you get when a kitchen just orders twenty bags of pre-cut ribeye.

What to actually order (and what to skip)

Don’t fill up on bread. Just don't.

You’re here for the tacos. The cheeseburger taco is the one everyone talks about, and yeah, it’s basically a distilled version of a dirty burger inside a soft tortilla. It’s salty, fatty, and perfect. But the real sleepers are often the goat or the lamb. Because they use the whole carcass, the specials board is usually where the most interesting stuff lives.

  • The Beef Fat Potatoes: These are non-negotiable. They are crunchy, salty cubes of sin.
  • The Rare Breed Steaks: They sell these by weight. It gets expensive fast. Keep an eye on the price per 100g or you’ll get a heart-stopping surprise when the bill hits the table.
  • The Mezcal: They have one of the biggest selections in London. If you aren't drinking mezcal here, you're missing half the point. The smokiness of the spirit mirrors the smokiness of the meat. It just works.

Why the "Whole Animal" thing isn't just talk

Let's get into the weeds for a second. Most restaurants in Soho are tiny. Space is at a premium. Devoting a massive chunk of your basement to a butchery area is, financially speaking, a bit nuts. But it’s why temper restaurant london soho has stayed relevant while other "hot" spots from 2016 have vanished.

By bypassing the middleman and the industrial slaughterhouse, they get meat with better marbling and better flavor profiles. You can taste the grass the cow ate. You can taste the age. When you’re eating a steak that was cut from the bone three hours ago, it has a different texture. It’s firmer, more "beefy," less mushy than the wet-aged stuff you find in supermarkets.

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It also means the menu changes constantly. If they run out of prime rib, they run out. You might end up with a picanha or a rump instead. That’s the trade-off. It’s a more honest way to eat, even if it’s a bit unpredictable for people who want the exact same meal every time they visit.

The vibe check

It is dark in there. Like, "use your phone flashlight to read the menu" dark.

The music is loud, too. Usually a mix of 90s hip-hop, rock, and whatever the kitchen staff is vibing to. If you’re looking for a spot for a serious business meeting or a first date where you actually need to hear the other person’s life story, maybe go elsewhere. But for a "we just finished a long week and need a drink and a massive plate of meat" vibe? It’s unbeatable.

There’s a certain grit to it that feels very Soho. Soho is changing, becoming more sanitized and corporate, but Temper still feels like it has some dirt under its fingernails. The staff are usually covered in a light dusting of charcoal ash and sweat. It’s glorious.

Addressing the price tag

Look, it’s not cheap. You’re in the heart of London. You’re eating high-welfare, rare-breed meat.

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A dinner for two with a couple of cocktails and a decent steak will easily clear £150. You can do it cheaper if you stick to tacos and beer, but the temptation to "just try" the 800g T-bone is real. The value comes from the quality. You aren't paying for white tablecloths or a sommelier in a tuxedo. You’re paying for the sourcing and the skill it takes to cook over an unpredictable live fire.

The "Soho Set Menu" is often a decent shout if you’re on a budget. It usually gives you a taste of the tacos and some of the smoked meats without the stress of the a la carte pricing.

A note on the heat

If you go in the summer, be warned: that fire pit is hot. The air conditioning does its best, but physics is physics. If you’re someone who runs hot, maybe ask for a table further back from the pit. But then again, if you aren't there for the fire, why are you there?

Practical steps for your visit

If you're planning to head to temper restaurant london soho, don't just wing it. This place stays packed for a reason.

  1. Book the counter specifically. When you use their online booking system, there is often an option to choose "Counter" or "Table." Pick the counter. It’s the best seat in the house, period.
  2. Go early or late. The peak 7:00 PM to 8:30 PM slot is a madhouse. If you go for a late lunch or a 9:30 PM dinner, the chefs are usually a bit more chilled out and might even chat with you about what they’re prepping.
  3. Check the specials board immediately. The best cuts aren't on the printed menu. They’re written on the chalkboards near the kitchen. Once they're gone, they're gone for the day.
  4. Order the mezcal flight. If you’re new to the spirit, the staff actually know their stuff. They can walk you through the difference between a smoky Espadín and a more floral Tobalá.
  5. Wear clothes you don't mind smelling like a campfire. You will leave smelling like smoke. It’s a badge of honor, but maybe don't wear your "dry clean only" silk blazer.

The beauty of Temper Soho is that it hasn't lost its edge. It’s still a bit middle-finger-up to the establishment. It’s messy, it’s loud, and the food is consistently excellent because they don't take shortcuts with the ingredients. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best way to cook is the oldest way: just a person, a knife, and a very big fire.