If you look at a photo of a crowded beach from 1974, you’ll notice something immediately. It’s the colors. They weren’t just bright; they were vibrating. We’re talking about sunset oranges, avocado greens, and those specific, dusty earthy browns that defined an entire decade of aesthetic choices. Swimsuits in the 70s weren’t just about swimming. Not even close. They were a loud, stretchy, nylon-clad manifesto about body freedom and the sudden availability of new textile technology.
People think the 70s were just about the "Itzy Bitzy" bikini, but that’s a total misconception. Honestly, the decade was a chaotic transition period. We were moving away from the structured, reinforced "bullet bra" silhouettes of the 50s and 60s and heading toward something way more fluid. It was the era of the Lycra revolution.
DuPont had introduced Lycra (spandex) years earlier, but it wasn't until the 1970s that manufacturers really figured out how to mass-produce it for the average person. Suddenly, a swimsuit didn't have to be a heavy, wool-blend suit that weighed ten pounds when wet. It could be thin. It could be clingy. It could actually move with you.
The Rudi Gernreich Effect and the Death of Structure
You can’t talk about this era without mentioning Rudi Gernreich. He was the provocateur of the fashion world. While he’s famous for the 1964 monokini, his influence peaked in the 70s as he pushed for "unconstructed" clothing. Basically, he hated the idea that a woman’s body needed to be shoved into a pre-molded shape. He wanted the fabric to follow the body, not the other way around.
This philosophy changed the way swimsuits in the 70s were built. Brands like Cole of California and Catalina started dropping the heavy underwires. They replaced them with soft cups or, in many cases, absolutely no support at all. It was the "natural look."
Think about the iconic Farrah Fawcett poster from 1976. You know the one. She’s wearing a red one-piece. It’s not a bikini, yet it was arguably more scandalous and influential than any two-piece of the time. Why? Because it was thin. It was a solid color. It showed the actual shape of her body without the armor of 1950s tailoring. That specific suit was designed by Irene Kasmer, and it sold millions of copies. It proved that the one-piece wasn't just for "modest" swimmers anymore. It was a high-fashion garment.
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Crochet and the DIY Disaster
Then there was the crochet trend. Oh man, the crochet.
Because the 70s were obsessed with the "back to the land" movement and bohemian vibes, everyone wanted a handmade look. This led to thousands of women (and men!) wearing knitted or crocheted cotton swimsuits.
Here is the thing nobody tells you about 70s crochet swimwear: it was a nightmare in actual water. Cotton absorbs its weight in liquid. You’d jump into a pool in a cute, handmade bikini and climb out five minutes later with the bottom of the suit sagging down to your knees. It was heavy, it took three days to dry, and it would often lose its shape entirely after one dip. Yet, people kept wearing them because the look was more important than the utility. It was about that Woodstock-leftover energy.
High Cuts and the Rise of the Thong
As the decade progressed, the leg lines started creeping up. By 1977 and 1978, we were seeing the early versions of the high-cut leg that would eventually dominate the 80s. But in the 70s, it was more about the "string."
The "string bikini" became a global phenomenon thanks to fashion exports from Brazil. In 1974, a designer named Geni Riva supposedly popularized the tanga on the beaches of Rio de Janeiro. It made its way to the US and Europe shortly after. This was a massive shift. Before this, even bikinis had a bit of "modesty" to them with wider side straps. The string bikini changed the geometry of the beach. It was just triangles and cords.
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It’s worth noting that this wasn't just for women. Men's swimwear was undergoing a radical shrinking process too. The trunks of the 60s—which were basically short-shorts—morphed into the tight, square-cut Speedo style or the very short "running style" shorts with side slits. Think of Burt Reynolds or any action star from that era. They weren't wearing baggy board shorts. Everything was brief. Everything was tight.
Materials That Actually Changed History
If you look at the technical side, the 70s gave us the "Speedo Skin." In 1972, at the Munich Olympics, the Australian swim team wore suits made of a nylon/elastane blend that was significantly smoother than anything used before. Mark Spitz won seven gold medals that year.
Was it the mustache? Maybe. But the suit helped.
This professional racing tech trickled down to the consumer market almost instantly. Suddenly, your average person at the local YMCA could buy a suit that felt like a second skin. This led to the "athletic chic" look. Brands started putting racing stripes down the sides of one-pieces. They used bold, primary colors. It made the wearer look like they were about to dive off a platform, even if they were just sunbathing with a Tab soda.
Glamour, Disco, and the Metallic Sheen
By 1978, disco was everywhere. This influenced swimsuits in the 70s by introducing metallics and "wet look" fabrics. Lurex threads were woven into suits to make them sparkle under the sun. Designers like Halston—who was the king of the disco era—were creating swimwear that could double as bodysuits.
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You could wear your swimsuit to the beach in the afternoon, throw on a wrap skirt or a pair of high-waisted wide-leg trousers, and go straight to Studio 54. The line between "activewear" and "evening wear" started to blur. This was the birth of the "lifestyle" brand.
What We Get Wrong About 70s Style
Most people assume the 70s were just a "hippie" decade. They think everyone was wearing flower-power prints. Actually, by the mid-70s, prints had become much more geometric and abstract. We saw a lot of chevron patterns, diagonal stripes, and ombre fades.
Another misconception? That everyone was fit and toned like a modern Instagram model. Honestly, the 70s aesthetic was much softer. The "toned" look didn't really take over until the Jane Fonda aerobic craze of the early 80s. In the 70s, the "natural" body was celebrated. This is why the suits had less compression. They weren't trying to "suck you in." They were just... there.
Key Features of a True 70s Swimsuit:
- Ring Details: Plastic or metal rings connecting the top and bottom of a bikini or holding the straps of a one-piece.
- Tie-Dye: But not the neon kind—think more muted, "hand-dipped" browns and oranges.
- Halter Necks: This was the dominant neckline. It provided a bit of lift while leaving the back completely open for tanning.
- Terry Cloth: People actually wore suits made of towel material. It was comfortable, sure, but it looked a bit like you were wearing a bathmat after a while.
How to Apply 70s Swimwear Logic Today
If you’re looking to channel this era without looking like you’re in a costume, you have to focus on the palette. Look for those "ugly-pretty" colors: mustard, rust, terracotta, and teal.
Skip the heavy padding. The 70s look is all about a soft silhouette. Look for "scoop back" one-pieces that cut low toward the spine. If you go for a bikini, find one with a high-waisted bottom but a thin, stringy top—that juxtaposition is very 1975.
Check out vintage-inspired brands like Solid & Striped or Hunza G. They often use seersucker-style crinkle fabrics that mimic the texture of 70s knits but with modern stretch that won't sag when you actually hit the water.
Actionable Steps for the Vintage Enthusiast:
- Search for "Deadstock" Spandex: If you want the real deal, look for "deadstock" 70s swimwear on sites like Etsy or Gem. Just be careful—rubber elastic inside the seams of 50-year-old suits often dries out and snaps the second you put it on.
- Inspect the Lining: True 70s suits often had a white, "honeycomb" mesh lining. If you're buying "vintage-inspired," make sure it has enough Lycra content (at least 15%) to avoid the sagging issues common with 70s cotton.
- Modern Sun Care: The 70s were the era of baby oil and iodine. Please, don't do that. You can have the 70s look while using a modern SPF 50. The "bronzed" look of the 70s was iconic, but the skin damage was real.
- Care for Your Spandex: To keep that 70s-style metallic or nylon suit alive, never put it in the dryer. Heat is the enemy of elastane. Rinse in cold water immediately after the pool to get the chlorine out.
The legacy of swimsuits in the 70s is really about the moment we stopped trying to hide the human form behind stiff fabrics and started letting the fabric show off the person. It was the decade of the "unapologetic body." Whether it was a tiny string bikini or a bold, red one-piece, the goal was simple: move, breathe, and soak up the sun.