Montmartre is a trap. Most people get off the Metro at Abbesses or Anvers and spend their entire afternoon dodging selfie sticks and overpriced crêpe stands. But if you walk just a few blocks away from the Sacré-Cœur chaos, tucked onto the Rue Tholozé, things get quiet. Really quiet. This is where you find Hotel Des Arts Paris, or more specifically, the Hotel Des Arts Montmartre. It’s a family-run spot that’s been around forever, and honestly, in a city where "boutique" usually means "tiny room with a rude receptionist," this place actually feels like someone’s home.
You’ve probably seen the red awnings if you’ve ever wandered toward the Moulin de la Galette. It’s local. It's authentic. It’s also surprisingly modern once you step through the front door.
The Montmartre reality check
Most tourists think staying in the 18th arrondissement means being at the center of the universe. It’s not. It’s a workout. If you stay at Hotel Des Arts Paris, you are committing to hills. Serious hills. But that’s the trade-off for the view. The hotel sits on a steep street that feels like a village. You aren't surrounded by H&M or Zara; you’re surrounded by independent bakeries and that one guy who’s been selling the same antique clocks for thirty years.
There is a specific vibe here. It’s bohemian, but not the fake, commercialized version of bohemian you find on a postcard. The Lameyre family, who has owned the place for generations, has kept the soul of the building intact while making sure the Wi-Fi actually works—which is a miracle in historic Paris buildings.
What the rooms are actually like
Don't expect a palace. This isn't the Ritz. Paris hotel rooms are notoriously small, and Hotel Des Arts Paris follows that rule to an extent, though they’ve been clever with the layout.
- The Comfort Rooms: These are your standard stay. They’re tight but functional.
- The Superior Rooms: A bit more breathing room. If you’re staying more than two nights, get this.
- The Eiffel Tower View: Yes, some rooms actually see the iron lady. It’s distant, but at night when it sparkles, it’s worth the extra Euros.
The decor is a mix. You’ll find toile de Jouy wallpaper (that classic French pattern with the pastoral scenes) clashing—honestly, in a good way—with sleek, modern bathroom fixtures. They didn't go for a "minimalist" look because that would be boring. Instead, it feels like a collector’s bedroom. The headboards are often upholstered in bold fabrics, and the lighting is warm. It’s cozy. Small, but cozy.
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Why the location on Rue Tholozé matters
Location is everything in Paris. If you stay near the Eiffel Tower, you’re in a museum. If you stay in the Marais, you’re in a fashion show. But Rue Tholozé is different. It’s a residential artery.
Just down the street is Studio 28. It’s a cinema that opened in 1928, and Jean Cocteau actually helped design the interior. It’s arguably the coolest movie theater in the city. When you stay at Hotel Des Arts Paris, you aren't just a guest; you’re a neighbor to one of the most historical cinematic spots in Europe. You can catch a film and then walk thirty seconds back to your lobby.
The hotel is also a stone's throw from the Rue des Abbesses. This is where the locals eat. Skip the restaurants right on the Place du Tertre—the ones with the guys trying to lure you in with laminated menus. Instead, walk down from the hotel and find a bistro where the menu is written in chalk on a slate board. That’s where the real food is.
Addressing the "Paris Syndrome"
We’ve all heard about people getting disappointed by Paris. They expect Emily in Paris and they get subway strikes and pigeons. Hotel Des Arts Paris manages to bridge that gap. It feels like the Paris you imagined, but it’s grounded. The staff—Gabriel and the team—actually talk to you. They’ll tell you which bakery has the best croissants that morning (it changes) and which Metro lines to avoid during rush hour.
The logistics: Getting there and getting around
Getting to Montmartre with luggage is a nightmare. Let’s be real. If you take the Metro to Abbesses, you’re faced with one of the deepest stations in the city. Use the elevator. Please. Or better yet, take a taxi or an Uber directly to the door of Hotel Des Arts Paris. Your knees will thank you.
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Once you’re checked in, you’re well-connected:
- Metro Line 12 (Abbesses): Goes straight to Place de la Concorde and Musee d'Orsay.
- Metro Line 2 (Blanche): Perfect for getting to the Arc de Triomphe or Père Lachaise.
- The Bus 40: This is the "Montmartrobus." It’s tiny and climbs the hills so you don't have to. It stops very close to the hotel.
Breakfast and the "French Way"
The breakfast at Hotel Des Arts Paris is a solid buffet. It’s not a 50-item spread like you’d find at a Hilton, but the quality of the bread and cheese is top-tier. They source things locally. In Paris, a "good" breakfast isn't about quantity; it's about the crunch of the baguette and the quality of the butter. They get that right.
Common misconceptions about staying in Montmartre
People think Montmartre is dangerous at night. Parts of the 18th can be gritty, sure. But the area around Rue Tholozé and the Hotel Des Arts is incredibly safe. It’s mostly families and older Parisians walking their dogs. It feels more like a small town than a massive metropolis.
Another myth is that it’s too far from the "real" sights. It’s 15 minutes on the Metro to the Louvre. You aren't isolated. You’re just elevated.
The Art connection
The name "Hotel Des Arts" isn't just marketing. Montmartre was the epicenter of the art world for decades. Picasso, Dalí, and Modigliani all lived and worked within walking distance. The hotel pays homage to this with art scattered throughout the common areas. It doesn't feel like a gallery—it’s too cluttered for that—but it feels lived-in and creative.
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Expert tips for your stay
If you want the best experience at Hotel Des Arts Paris, ask for a room on the higher floors. The stairs are narrow (there is an elevator, but it’s small), but the higher you go, the better the light. Parisian light is a real thing—it’s soft and grey-blue, and it pours into these rooms in the morning.
Avoid the weekend rush if you can. Montmartre on a Saturday afternoon is a sea of people. If you stay at the hotel during the week, you get to see the neighborhood wake up. You see the shopkeepers sweeping the sidewalks and the delivery vans dropping off fresh produce. It’s a completely different world.
Practical steps for planning your visit
If you're ready to book, don't just click the first link on a massive booking site.
- Book Direct: The hotel often has better rates or small perks like free breakfast if you book through their official website. Plus, it helps the local owners avoid the massive commissions from third-party sites.
- Check the Calendar: If your dates align with the Fête des Vendanges (the Montmartre wine festival in October), book months in advance. The hotel will be full, and the streets will be packed.
- Pack Light: I cannot stress this enough. Even with the elevator, space is at a premium. Huge suitcases are a burden in old Parisian hotels.
- Learn Three Phrases: "Bonjour," "Merci," and "Pardon." The staff speaks great English, but starting with a little French opens doors—literally and figuratively.
Staying at Hotel Des Arts Paris is about choosing a side of the city that isn't made of glass and steel. It’s about creaky floorboards, the smell of fresh coffee, and being able to walk to the Sacré-Cœur at 6:00 AM before the rest of the world wakes up. That alone makes it one of the better choices in the 18th.
Go for the atmosphere. Stay for the quiet. Don't forget to wear comfortable shoes because those cobblestones are unforgiving.