Kerala is a strange, beautiful place. Most people go there, sit on a houseboat in the backwaters for eighteen hours, eat a mediocre curry, and leave. They miss the pulse. If you actually want to feel the Indian coastline—not just photograph it through a tinted taxi window—you end up at Soul and Surf India. It isn’t a resort. Calling it a hotel feels a bit insulting to the vibe they’ve spent years building on those Varkala cliffs. It’s basically a community that happens to have rooms and really good coffee.
The whole thing started because Ed and Sofie Templeton, a couple from the UK, decided they didn't want to live a "normal" life anymore. They landed in Varkala back in 2009. Back then, the idea of a "surf and yoga" retreat in India was, frankly, weird. Everyone went to Goa to party or to Rishikesh to meditate. Kerala was for spice tours. But they saw these empty, peeling waves and a cliffside that felt like the edge of the world. They stayed. They built something. And now, Soul and Surf India is the blueprint for a specific kind of conscious travel that everyone else is trying (and mostly failing) to copy.
The Varkala Reality Check
Varkala is a clifftop town. It’s narrow, chaotic, and smells like incense and salt. To get to the water, you have to hike down steep, crumbling steps. It’s not for the lazy. Soul and Surf India sits just back from that main tourist madness. It's quiet.
You’ve got the original "Soul" building—the traditional Keralan house with its heavy wood and red tiles—and then the newer, more modern additions. Honestly, the "Soul" house is where the magic is. It feels lived in. It feels like a home. You aren't a guest; you’re a temporary resident.
The Surf Part (It’s Not Just for Pros)
A lot of people are intimidated by surfing in India. They think of the massive, bone-crunching barrels of Hawaii or the crowded lineups in Bali. India isn't that. Not usually. The waves at Soul and Surf India are generally "mellow." That’s the word the instructors use. It means they’re long, rolling, and perfect for learning.
They take the surf seriously, though. This isn't some guy on the beach handing you a foam board and pointing at the horizon. They use the ISA (International Surfing Association) framework. They talk about "white water," "green waves," and "pop-ups" until it’s burned into your brain.
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- The Dawn Patrol: You wake up early. Like, 5:30 AM early. You drink a quick coffee, load boards onto the roof of an Ambassador or a rickshaw, and head to the beach before the wind picks up.
- The Breakdown: After the session, they do video analysis. It's humbling. Seeing yourself fall off a board in slow motion while a pro points out exactly why your feet were in the wrong place is the fastest way to actually get better.
- The Ethics: They hire locals. This is huge. Many "surf camps" in Asia fly in Western instructors and ignore the local community. Soul and Surf India has helped train some of the best Indian surfers, like Selvam and Appu, who are now core parts of the team.
Yoga Without the Pretension
After you've been beaten up by the Arabian Sea for two hours, your muscles are going to scream. That’s where the "Soul" bit comes in. The yoga here isn't the competitive, "look at my expensive leggings" kind of yoga you find in London or LA. It’s functional.
They call it "Yoga for Surfers." It’s designed to open up your shoulders, fix your lower back, and help you find some balance. Sometimes it’s on the rooftop. Sometimes it’s in a shaded garden. You’re breathing in the humidity and listening to the distant sound of temple bells. It’s basically impossible to stay stressed in that environment.
The Food Situation
Food is a massive part of the experience. They do a communal breakfast. You sit at a long table with people from all over the world—maybe a tech CEO from Berlin, a nurse from Melbourne, and a freelance writer from Mumbai. You eat Puttu (steamed rice cakes with coconut) and Kadala curry (spicy chickpeas). It’s authentic Keralan food, but tweaked slightly so your stomach doesn't go into full-scale revolt on day one.
Sundays are famous here. They do "Pizza Night." It sounds like a sell-out move, but when you’ve been eating rice and curry for a week, a wood-fired pizza on a cliff in India is the best thing you’ve ever tasted.
Why This Works (And Why Some People Hate It)
Let’s be real: Soul and Surf India isn't for everyone. If you want a 5-star Hilton experience with a bellhop and a sterilized pool, you will be miserable here.
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There are bugs. It’s India. There are mosquitoes, and occasionally a gecko will hang out in your bathroom. The Wi-Fi can be patchy when a monsoon storm rolls through. The power goes out sometimes. That’s just life in Kerala. If those things bother you, you’re missing the point. This place is about stripping away the nonsense and focusing on the basics: movement, community, and the ocean.
People come back year after year because of the "vibe." It’s a word that gets thrown around too much, but here it’s real. It’s the feeling of "Atithi Devo Bhava" (the guest is God) mixed with a relaxed, surfing subculture.
The Environmental Impact
Kerala is fragile. The coastline is eroding. Plastic is a huge problem. Soul and Surf India doesn't just ignore this while charging people for "nature" retreats. They are part of the 1% for the Planet movement. They run the "Soul & Surf Foundation," which focuses on ocean health and youth development in the local village. They aren't just taking; they’re putting back. They’ve pioneered "Climate Positive" travel by measuring their carbon footprint and offsetting it in ways that actually make sense, like supporting local renewable energy projects.
A Typical Tuesday at Soul and Surf India
Imagine this. You’re awake before the sun. The air is thick and warm. You’re in a rickshaw, board strapped to the roof, rattling down a dirt track past coconut groves. You hit the beach. The water is like bathwater. You paddle out. The sun starts to hit the red cliffs of Varkala, turning them a fiery orange. You catch a wave. It’s not a big wave, but it’s yours.
By 9:00 AM, you’re back at the house, salt-crusted and starving. You eat a massive breakfast. You might take a nap in a hammock. In the afternoon, maybe there's a workshop on "Breathwork" or "Sound Healing." Or maybe you just walk into town to get a 100-rupee Ayurvedic massage that leaves you feeling like a human noodle.
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Dinner is communal. The conversation is loud. You realize you haven't checked your email in six hours. That’s the Soul and Surf India effect.
Practical Logistics You Actually Need
If you're seriously thinking about going, don't just wing it. This place books up months in advance, especially during the peak season (November to March).
- Getting There: Fly into Trivandrum (TRV). It’s about a 90-minute drive to Varkala. The team can organize a pick-up. Do it. Finding the place in the dark on your own is a nightmare.
- The Seasons: * November to March: Peak season. Best weather. Cleanest waves.
- April to May: Getting very hot. Very humid. Still good, but you’ll sweat through your sheets.
- June to September: Monsoon. The surf gets big and messy. The "Soul" house often shuts down or runs different programs.
- What to Pack: You don't need much. A good rash guard (the sun is brutal), plenty of zinc-based sunscreen, and clothes that breathe. Forget the fancy stuff.
What People Get Wrong
The biggest misconception is that you have to be "good" at surfing or yoga to fit in. You don't. Honestly, the experts are usually the minority. Most people are there to try something new or to reset after a burnout.
Another mistake? Thinking Varkala is just another Goa. It’s not. It’s more conservative. It’s more spiritual. You can’t just walk around in a bikini through the village streets without getting (rightly) judged. Soul and Surf India does a great job of educating guests on how to be respectful of the local Malayali culture.
Actionable Steps for Your Trip
If you want to experience the real Soul and Surf India, don't just book a weekend. You need at least a week to let the rhythm of the place sink in.
- Book the "Soul" Room: If you can, get a room in the original colonial-style building. The high ceilings and old-school fans are worth it.
- Say Yes to the Extras: If they offer a "temple tour" or a trip to a local backwater spot that isn't on the tourist map, take it. The staff knows the hidden gems.
- Learn the Names: Get to know the local guys working the boards and the kitchen. They are the heartbeat of the operation.
- Disconnect: Turn off your notifications. Put your phone in the room safe. The Arabian Sea is a much better screen to look at.
At the end of the day, Soul and Surf India is about a specific kind of alchemy. It’s what happens when you mix Indian hospitality, British surf culture, and the raw beauty of the Kerala coast. It’s not perfect—nothing in India is—but it’s honest. And in a world of "Instagrammable" travel that feels hollow, honesty is the only thing worth paying for.