You spend $400 on a pair of Allen Edmonds or maybe you finally splurged on those Carmina oxfords you've been eyeing for months. The leather is pristine. The welt is perfect. But then, about six months in, something looks… off. It’s the laces. They’re frayed, or worse, they’re those thick, chunky things that belong on a pair of hiking boots, not a sleek cap-toe. Honestly, shoe strings for dress shoes are the absolute last thing most guys think about, but they are the first thing that can make an expensive outfit look cheap.
It’s a tiny detail. Truly. But in menswear, the tiny details do the heavy lifting.
Most people just use whatever came in the box until they snap. That’s a mistake. The factory laces are often just "good enough" to get the shoe out the door. If you want your footwear to actually look sharp, you need to understand that not all strings are created equal. We’re talking about diameter, wax content, and material. It sounds nerdy because it is. But if you care about the silhouette of your shoe, you have to care about the string holding it together.
The Great Wax Debate: Why It Actually Matters
When you’re looking for new shoe strings for dress shoes, you’ll see two main types: waxed and unwaxed. If you buy unwaxed cotton laces for a pair of formal oxfords, you’re going to regret it. They look fuzzy. They absorb moisture. They lose their shape.
Waxed laces are the gold standard for a reason. The wax coating—usually a paraffin or beeswax blend—serves a dual purpose. First, it protects the cotton core from the elements. If you’re caught in a drizzle on your way to a wedding, unwaxed laces turn into soggy noodles. Waxed ones shrug it off. Second, and more importantly for the look, the wax provides a slight sheen that matches the polish of your leather. It also helps the knot stay tied. There is nothing more annoying than a lace that slowly unties itself while you’re giving a presentation or walking down the aisle.
Thinness is the other factor. A proper dress lace should be between 2mm and 3mm in diameter. Anything thicker and you’re venturing into "casual chukka" territory. If you try to pull a 4mm lace through the tiny eyelets of a wholecut oxford, you’re going to struggle, and it’s going to look bulky and awkward. It ruins the lines of the shoe. Think of it like wearing a backpack with a tuxedo. It just doesn't fit the vibe.
Round vs. Flat Laces
This is where people get tripped up. Most oxfords and derbies use round laces. They are traditional, understated, and slide through eyelets with minimal friction. However, some higher-end European makers occasionally use flat waxed laces.
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Flat laces have a bit more of a contemporary, high-fashion feel. They lay flush against the tongue of the shoe. If you have a pair of sleek, modern Italian dress shoes, a thin flat lace can look incredibly sharp. But for your standard American or British classic footwear? Stick to round. It’s the safe bet that never looks wrong.
Breaking Down the Materials
Cotton is king. Specifically, long-staple cotton.
You might see synthetic blends or even full polyester laces online for $2. Avoid them. Polyester has a weird, artificial shine that looks like plastic under bright lights. It also has a tendency to stretch and "creep," meaning your shoes feel tighter or looser as the day goes on because the material isn't stable. High-quality shoe strings for dress shoes are almost always 100% cotton.
Brands like Kirby Allison’s Hanger Project or the UK-based TZ Laces have built entire reputations on just getting the cotton and wax ratio right. It seems overkill until you see a pair of their glazed laces next to a pair from the grocery store. The difference is night and day.
Length is a Math Problem, Not a Guess
Nothing looks sloppier than "bunny ears" that are six inches long and flopping over the sides of your shoes. Conversely, if your laces are too short, you’re straining the knot and risking a snap every time you tie them.
The "standard" length for a 5-eyelet dress shoe is usually 75cm or 30 inches. But that’s a generalization. If your feet have a high arch (meaning the "V" of the lacing stays wider), you might need 80cm. If your shoes fit tightly and the eyelets almost touch, you might want to drop down to 70cm.
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Here is a quick breakdown of what you usually need:
- 2-3 eyelets (Chukkas or some Derbies): 45cm to 60cm
- 4-5 eyelets (Standard Oxfords): 75cm
- 6 eyelets (Tall boots or narrow Oxfords): 80cm to 90cm
Pro tip: don't guess. Pull out your old lace, lay it flat, and measure it. It takes thirty seconds and saves you the hassle of a return.
The Art of Lacing (And Why Your Current Way Might Be Wrong)
Let's talk about "Bar Lacing." If you are wearing Oxfords (closed lacing system), you should be bar lacing them. Period.
Criss-cross lacing is for sneakers and casual boots. On a formal shoe, the laces should run in parallel horizontal lines across the tongue. This isn't just about tradition; it’s about pressure distribution. Bar lacing allows the uppers to pull together more evenly, which prevents the leather from bunching up. It looks cleaner, more professional, and frankly, more expensive.
I’ve seen guys in $1,000 Bespoke shoes who still use the "over-under" criss-cross method. It kills the elegance of the shoe. If you haven't mastered the straight bar lace yet, go to YouTube and look it up. It’s a five-minute learning curve that pays off every time you look down at your feet.
When Should You Replace Them?
Don’t wait for them to break. If you wait for a snap, it’s going to happen at the worst possible moment—usually when you’re running late for an interview.
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Check your laces every time you polish your shoes. Look for "pilling" or spots where the wax has completely worn off. If the aglets (the plastic or metal tips) are cracked or missing, throw the laces away immediately. A frayed end is impossible to thread through an eyelet, and it looks like you don't take care of your gear.
Actually, keep a spare pair of black and dark brown laces in your grooming kit or your desk drawer. They cost five bucks. It's the cheapest insurance policy you'll ever buy.
Color: To Match or Not to Match?
Usually, you want your laces to match your shoes. Black laces for black shoes. Dark brown for dark brown.
However, there is a small movement of "sprezzatura" where guys use colored laces—red, blue, or purple—to add a "pop" to their outfit. Honestly? Proceed with extreme caution. It can look a bit "clownish" if not done perfectly. If you want to experiment, try a shade that is just a few notches away from the leather color. For example, a navy blue lace in a dark cognac shoe can look sophisticated. But neon green laces in black oxfords? Just don't.
The goal of a dress shoe is to be a foundation for your outfit, not a neon sign for your feet.
Specific Brands to Look For
If you're looking for quality, don't just buy the generic brand at the shoe repair shop. Look for:
- Saphir: The gold standard in shoe care. Their laces are heavily waxed and incredibly durable.
- Fort Belvedere: They specialize in those specific lengths and colors that are hard to find elsewhere.
- Viccel: Known for their high-quality cotton that doesn't fray easily.
Actionable Next Steps
If your dress shoes are looking a bit tired, don't buy new shoes yet. Try this instead:
- Audit your closet: Check the aglets on every pair of dress shoes you own. If they’re plastic and cracked, they need to go.
- Measure your current sets: Determine if you're rocking the "bunny ear" look. If so, order a pair 5-10cm shorter.
- Switch to Bar Lacing: Spend ten minutes this weekend re-lacing your formal oxfords using the straight bar method.
- Buy a backup set: Order one pair of 75cm black waxed cotton laces and one pair of dark brown today. Toss them in your travel bag.
- Clean the eyelets: Before you put new laces in, take a Q-tip and clean the gunk out of the eyelets. It prevents the new laces from getting dirty immediately.
The reality is that shoe strings for dress shoes are a utility item that doubles as a stylistic anchor. When they’re right, nobody notices. When they’re wrong, it’s all people see. Take the ten minutes to get it right. Your shoes—and your overall look—will thank you for it.