Most people landing at Jeju International Airport make a snap decision. They grab their rental car, see the sprawling neon and traffic of Jeju City, and figure that's the "hub." They’re wrong. If you want the version of Jeju that matches the postcards—the orange groves, the towering cliffs, and that weirdly slow pace of life—you have to drive south. You have to go to Seogwipo.
Seogwipo City Jeju Island isn't just a secondary town. It’s the soul of the island. While the north side feels like a busy metropolis that happens to have a beach, Seogwipo feels like a tropical escape that happens to have a city. It’s built on a volcanic plateau that drops off into the Pacific. The air is warmer here, shielded by the massive bulk of Hallasan mountain. It’s literally a different climate.
People often ask me if it’s worth the hour-long drive through the mountain passes. Honestly? It’s the only part of the island that feels authentic anymore.
The Waterfall That Hits the Ocean
You’ve probably seen photos of Jeongbang Waterfall. It’s one of the few waterfalls in Asia that falls directly into the sea. It sounds like a gimmick until you’re standing there. The mist from the freshwater hits your face while the salt spray from the ocean hits your back. It’s chaotic and loud.
Unlike the manicured parks you find in Seoul, the trek down to Jeongbang is all wet rocks and slippery stairs. You’ll see the Haenyeo—the legendary female divers—selling fresh sea squirt and abalone right on the rocks. They’re in their 70s and 80s. They’re tougher than you. They slice up the catch with rhythmic precision, and you eat it right there with a side of spicy dipping sauce. This is Seogwipo. It’s raw.
Then there’s Jusangjeolli Cliff. Imagine giant hexagonal stone pillars stacked like a pipe organ along the coast. It’s the result of lava cooling rapidly against the sea. It looks artificial, like someone spent years carving it, but it’s just the Earth being dramatic. Most tourists spend five minutes here for a selfie. Stay for twenty. Watch how the waves break against the basalt. It’s mesmerizing.
The Olle Market Reality Check
Don't go to the Seogwipo Olle Market expecting a sterile shopping mall. It’s a labyrinth. You’ll smell the Heukdwaeji (black pork) being grilled before you see it. The market is famous for its "Kkwabaegi" (twisted donuts) and Hallabong juice. Hallabong is that lumpy orange that Jeju is obsessed with. It’s expensive. It’s also the best citrus you’ll ever have in your life.
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I once spent an hour watching a grandmother make Omegi-tteok. It’s a rice cake made from broomcorn millet, coated in bean powder and red beans. It looks like a dirt ball. It tastes like heaven. The market is the heartbeat of Seogwipo City Jeju Island. It’s where the locals actually shop, despite the influx of tourists. If you see a line of elderly locals at a stall, get in it. Don’t ask what they’re selling. Just buy it.
The Art of Lee Jung-seob
There’s a street in Seogwipo named after Lee Jung-seob. He was a painter who fled to the island during the Korean War. He lived in a room so small you could barely stretch your legs. He was poor, starving, and separated from his family. Yet, the work he produced here is some of the most vibrant and hopeful in Korean history.
Walking up Lee Jung-seob Street feels different than the rest of the city. It’s lined with small galleries, indie cafes, and craft shops. It’s the "bohemian" corner of the island. You can visit the actual room where he lived. It’s a sobering reminder that Seogwipo has always been a place of refuge.
Why the South Side is a Geographic Weirdo
Geography matters here. Because Hallasan stands smack in the middle of the island, it acts as a giant weather shield. When it’s pouring rain and freezing in Jeju City, Seogwipo is often sunny and five degrees warmer. It’s a microclimate.
This is why the oranges grow here. In late autumn and winter, the entire outskirts of Seogwipo City Jeju Island turn bright orange. The trees are heavy with fruit. It’s the only place in Korea that feels vaguely Mediterranean.
Diving the Soft Coral
If you’re a diver, you already know about Munseom and Beomseom. These are the small islands you see from the Seogwipo harbor. The water here is surprisingly warm because of the Tsushima Current.
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We’re talking about soft coral forests that look like something out of a sci-fi movie. It’s not the Great Barrier Reef, but the biodiversity is staggering. You have tropical fish mixing with temperate species. It’s a weird, colorful ecosystem that most people who stay on the mainland never even realize exists.
The Logistics of Actually Staying Here
Most people make the mistake of staying in the Jungmun Tourist Complex. It’s fancy. It has the Marriott and the Shilla. It also feels like a gated community that could be anywhere in the world.
If you want the real Seogwipo, stay in the downtown area near the harbor.
- Transport: Rent a car. Just do it. The buses are okay, but you’ll waste half your life waiting at stops. The 1100 Road is a terrifying but beautiful drive over the mountain.
- Food: Look for "Duri-duri" or small spots that only serve one thing. If a menu has twenty items, skip it. If it only serves "Gogi-guksu" (pork noodles), you’ve hit gold.
- Timing: Avoid August. It’s humid enough to drown standing up. October and November are the sweet spots. The air is crisp, the oranges are ripe, and the crowds have thinned out.
Dealing with the Crowds
Let’s be real: Seogwipo is popular. Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) is a short drive away, and it’s usually packed with tour buses. If you want to see the sunrise without 500 other people, try Gwangchigi Beach instead. You get a view of the peak from across the water, and you won’t get hit by a selfie stick.
The same goes for the waterfalls. Go at 8:00 AM. By 11:00 AM, the magic is gone, replaced by the sound of shuffling feet and shouting guides.
The Silent Giants: Oreums
Everyone talks about Hallasan. It’s the big one. It’s also a grueling 8-hour hike that will leave your knees screaming.
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Instead, look for the Oreums. These are small parasitic volcanic cones scattered around the city. Saeyeongyo Bridge leads to Saeseom Island, which has a beautiful walking path. Or climb up to Seogwipo’s many volcanic hills for a view of the city and the sea. You get the elevation without the exhaustion. It’s a fair trade.
The Actionable Path to Seeing Seogwipo Properly
Stop trying to see the whole island in three days. You can’t. If you’re heading to Seogwipo City Jeju Island, commit to the south.
Start your day at the harbor. Watch the boats. Walk the Saeyeongyo Bridge before the sun gets too high. Grab a coffee at one of the cafes overlooking the sea—there are dozens, and they all have floor-to-ceiling windows. Spend your afternoon in the Olle Market, and your evening eating black pork in a side alley.
Skip the museums about teddy bears or chocolate. They’re tourist traps. Spend that time walking the Olle Trail Route 6 or 7. These trails take you through the backyards of local houses, past hidden coves, and through tangerine groves. It’s the version of Korea that hasn’t been polished for Instagram yet.
Seogwipo isn't a place you "do." It’s a place you settle into. The pace is slower, the people are friendlier, and the salt air is everywhere. If you leave the city feeling a little bit sun-dazed and smelling like grilled pork, you’ve done it right.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
- Check the tide charts for Jeongbang Waterfall; it’s most impressive when the tide is high and the waves meet the falls.
- Secure a rental car with an international permit before you arrive at the airport; local agencies in Seogwipo are fewer and further between.
- Book a guesthouse in the Lee Jung-seob district rather than a resort in Jungmun to stay within walking distance of the best local eateries.
- Download the Jeju Olle Trail app to navigate the coastal paths without getting lost in the citrus groves.