It’s big. Huge, actually. Most people looking at a map of Malaysia focus on the peninsula, that little thumb sticking down from Thailand. But if you cross the South China Sea, you hit Sarawak. It’s the largest state in the country, and honestly, it feels like a different world entirely. If you’ve ever wanted to stand in a cave so large you could fit a Boeing 747 inside it—multiple times—this is where you go.
I’ve spent a lot of time talking to travelers who think they’ve "done" Southeast Asia because they hit a beach in Phuket or a temple in Bali. They’re wrong. Sarawak isn't about the manicured tourist experience. It’s messy. It’s humid. It’s incredibly green.
The state sits on the northwest coast of Borneo. It shares the island with Sabah, the tiny nation of Brunei, and the massive Indonesian territory of Kalimantan. But Sarawak has a specific vibe. It was ruled for a century by the "White Rajahs"—the Brooke family from England—which gives the capital, Kuching, this bizarre, beautiful mix of Victorian architecture and Chinese shophouses, all surrounded by dense jungle.
The Kuching Paradox: Cats and Colonialism
Kuching literally means "cat" in Malay. There are cat statues everywhere. Some are kitschy; some are just weird. But the city itself is the most laid-back capital in the region. You can spend an entire morning walking the Waterfront, watching the tambang (wooden river buses) ferry people across the Sarawak River for a few cents.
You’ve got to try the food here. Seriously. Sarawak Laksa is not the laksa you find in Kuala Lumpur or Singapore. Anthony Bourdain famously called it the "Breakfast of the Gods." It’s a complex, earthy broth made with a secret blend of spices, topped with prawns, shredded chicken, and omelet strips. There is a specific stall at Choon Hui Cafe that locals swear by, but honestly, even the "bad" laksa here is better than most things you’ll eat all year.
The city acts as a base camp. You stay in a nice boutique hotel on Carpenter Street, eat your weight in midin (wild jungle ferns that are crunchy and garlicky), and then you head out. Because nobody comes to Sarawak just for the city.
Mulu is Overwhelming (In a Good Way)
Gunung Mulu National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and it’s basically the crown jewel of Sarawak. You usually have to fly in on a small turboprop plane because the roads just don't go there. It’s isolated.
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The karst formations are the stars of the show. The Deer Cave is famous for its "Bat Exodus." Every evening, if the weather is right, millions of wrinkled-lipped bats stream out of the cave mouth in massive, swirling ribbons to hunt. It looks like black smoke. It’s silent, eerie, and beautiful.
Inside the caves, it’s a lesson in humility. The Sarawak Chamber is the largest cave chamber in the world by area. We are talking about 600 meters long and 415 meters wide. It’s hard to wrap your brain around the scale until you’re standing in the dark with a headlamp, realizing your light can’t even hit the ceiling.
- The Pinnacles: These are razor-sharp limestone spikes jutting out of the jungle.
- The Adventure: Getting to them requires a grueling three-day trek that involves ladders and near-vertical climbs. It’s not for everyone.
- The Alternative: The Canopy Skywalk, which is one of the longest tree-based walkways in the world. Much easier on the knees.
Living in a Longhouse: It’s Not a Museum
People get this wrong all the time. They think visiting an Iban or Bidayuh longhouse is like going to a living history museum. It’s not. These are functioning communities.
In the Batang Ai region, you can stay in a longhouse where 20 or 30 families live under one incredibly long roof. You’ll sit on the ruai (the common gallery), drink tuak (rice wine), and talk. The Iban were once feared as headhunters—a fact they are quite open about—but today they are some of the most hospitable people you’ll ever meet.
Don't expect five-star luxury. You’re sleeping on a mat, likely under a mosquito net. You’ll hear the pigs and chickens underneath the floorboards at 5:00 AM. But you’ll also see how a community actually functions when there are no walls between neighbors. It’s a crash course in sociology.
The Orangutan Reality Check
Everyone wants to see orangutans. In Sarawak, the place to go is Semenggoh Wildlife Centre.
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It’s important to manage expectations here. This isn't a zoo. The orangutans are semi-wild. They live in the surrounding forest and only come to the feeding platform if they feel like it. If it’s fruiting season in the jungle, they won't show up. They don't need the handouts. That’s actually a good thing—it means the rehabilitation is working.
When a 200-pound male like Ritchie swings out of the canopy, the forest goes quiet. There is a raw power in these animals that you don't catch on camera. Their eyes look back at you with a level of intelligence that’s genuinely unsettling.
Why the Rainforest Matters Right Now
We hear about deforestation all the time. It’s a real issue in Borneo. Palm oil plantations have eaten up huge chunks of the landscape. However, Sarawak has been making moves to shift toward "Total Protected Areas."
The Heart of Borneo initiative is a cross-border effort to save what's left. As a traveler, your money actually matters here. Choosing eco-certified guides and staying in community-run homestays provides a financial incentive for locals to keep the forest standing rather than selling the land for timber or palm.
Bako: Where the Jungle Meets the Sea
If you only have one day outside of Kuching, go to Bako National Park. You have to take a boat to get there because there are no roads.
Bako is famous for the Proboscis monkey. You know the ones—the guys with the huge, bulbous noses and pot bellies. They look like a caricature of an old man. They’re endemic to Borneo, meaning you won't find them anywhere else on Earth.
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The park has seven different eco-systems. You can walk through mangroves, then a peat swamp, then scrubland that looks like the surface of Mars, all within a two-hour hike. And the beaches? They’re rugged. Huge sandstone sea stacks rise out of the water like jagged teeth.
Actionable Steps for Your Sarawak Trip
If you’re actually going to do this, don't wing it. Sarawak rewards the prepared.
1. Timing is everything.
Avoid the monsoon season from November to February unless you really like being wet. The best time is between April and September. If you can time it for July, the Rainforest World Music Festival is held at the Sarawak Cultural Village. It’s one of the best festivals on the planet.
2. Get your permits.
Places like Mulu require planning. You can't just show up and expect a bed in the hostel or a spot on a cave tour. Book at least three months in advance through the official park website.
3. Pack for the humidity, not just the heat.
Cotton is your enemy. It never dries. Wear moisture-wicking synthetic fabrics. And bring "leech socks" if you plan on doing deep jungle trekking. They aren't fashionable, but neither is having a blood-sucker in your boot.
4. Respect the customs.
When entering a longhouse, always take your shoes off. If you’re offered tuak, at least take a polite sip. It’s an insult to refuse hospitality outright.
5. Internal Flights.
AirAsia and MASwings are your best friends. Because Sarawak is so massive and the terrain is so rugged, flying is often the only practical way to get from Kuching to Mulu or Sibu.
Sarawak isn't a place you visit to relax on a beach with a cocktail. You go there to feel small. You go to be reminded that the world is still vast, untamed, and deeply complicated. It’s a place that stays with you long after the red mud has washed off your boots.