You ever get that feeling where you just want to drive south until the pavement turns to sand and the air smells like salt and frying garlic? That's the vibe. San Felipe is weird. I mean that in the best way possible. It isn't Cabo. It isn't even Ensenada. It’s this gritty, sun-baked fishing village on the Sea of Cortez that refuses to turn into a polished resort town, and honestly, that’s exactly why people keep coming back. If you’re looking for things to do in San Felipe Baja CA, you’re basically signing up for a mix of high-octane desert racing, slow-motion taco crawls, and tides that move so far back you’ll think the ocean literally quit.
It’s about two hours south of the border at Mexicali. The drive is a straight shot through the Laguna Salada, a dry lake bed that looks like the surface of the moon. Don't speed there. The Federales are real, and the potholes are deeper than they look. Once you hit the town's arches, the temperature jumps and the pace of life drops to about zero.
The Tide is the Boss Around Here
The first thing you’ll notice—and the thing most people get wrong—is the water. The Sea of Cortez has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world. We’re talking a vertical drop of over 20 feet in some spots. When the tide goes out in San Felipe, the sea retreats for miles.
What was a swimming hole at 8:00 AM becomes a vast, shimmering desert by noon.
It’s bizarre. You’ll see boats sitting on the dry sand, leaning on their hulls, waiting for the water to come back and rescue them. This is when you do the "San Felipe Walk." You grab a beer, put on some old sneakers (the mud is sticky), and trek out toward the horizon to find the actual ocean. You’ll find tide pools, tiny crabs, and locals digging for clams. If you’re looking for things to do in San Felipe Baja CA that don’t cost a dime, this is it. Just keep an eye on the water. It comes back faster than you think, and nobody wants to be that tourist swimming back to shore with their shoes in their hands.
Eating Your Way Through the Malecon
Let’s talk about the shrimp. San Felipe claims to be the birthplace of the fish taco. Ensenada usually fights them on this, but who cares? The shrimp here is world-class. Blue shrimp, specifically.
The Malecon is the heart of the action. It’s a paved boardwalk lined with restaurants, taco stands, and guys trying to sell you hats you don't need. You have to go to Rice & Beans. It’s a staple. The owner, Figueroa, is a legend in the off-road racing community. The walls are covered in stickers and memorabilia from decades of the Baja 250 and 1000.
But if you want the real deal, find a stand where the locals are hovering. Look for the "Chuyita" or any place that’s frying the fish to order. You want that batter crispy and the cabbage fresh. Squeeze a lot of lime. No, more than that.
- Try the "Michelada" here. It’s basically a salad in a beer cup with enough clamato and hot sauce to wake the dead.
- Don't skip the street corn (elote) if you see a cart at night.
- Clams. Chocolate clams are a local delicacy, named for the color of their shells, not the taste.
The Valley of the Giants (Valle de los Gigantes)
Most people stick to the beach, which is a mistake. If you head south toward Puertecitos, you’ll hit the Valle de los Gigantes. This is a protected area filled with Cardon cacti. These aren't your average backyard succulents. These things are massive. Some of them are over 60 feet tall and have been standing there for hundreds of years.
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It feels prehistoric. Seriously.
You pay a small fee at the gate (usually a few dollars) to drive the sandy loops. You need a vehicle with at least a bit of clearance; a low-slung sedan might struggle if the sand is soft. It’s one of those things to do in San Felipe Baja CA that makes you realize how small you are. Pro tip: go about an hour before sunset. The shadows the cacti cast are incredible for photos, and the heat finally breaks.
Off-Roading: The Local Religion
San Felipe lives and breathes off-roading. If the town had a heartbeat, it would sound like a 1000-horsepower Trophy Truck. This is the home of the San Felipe 250, and the desert surrounding the town is a spiderweb of "whoops" and sandy washes.
If you have a side-by-side or a quad, you’re in heaven. You can basically ride from your hotel or rental house directly into the dunes. People spend all day at "The Zoo" (a notorious section of the racecourse) or South Beach, just watching trucks fly over hills.
Not a gearhead? It doesn't matter. The energy is infectious. Just be careful. Every year, people get overconfident and flip their rentals. The sand is soft, the ruts are deep, and the nearest trauma center is a long way away. Respect the desert.
The Hot Springs of Puertecitos
If you’re willing to drive about 45 minutes to an hour south on the paved road, you’ll hit Puertecitos. It’s a tiny community that’s mostly off-the-grid.
There are natural hot springs right on the rocky shore. This is nature’s spa, but with a catch. The springs flow into the ocean, so the temperature is controlled by the tide. If the tide is too high, the springs are cold. If the tide is too low, the water is literally scalding—like, "peel your skin off" hot. You have to find that sweet spot in the middle where the cool seawater mixes with the thermal sulfur water.
It smells like rotten eggs. You’ll get over it.
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What to bring to Puertecitos:
- Water shoes. The rocks are sharp and covered in barnacles.
- Plenty of water. There aren't many stores out there.
- Small change. There’s usually a small fee to access the springs through the private property.
Seeking Peace at the Shrine of Guadalupe
For a change of pace, look up toward the hill at the north end of the Malecon. You’ll see a white shrine overlooking the bay. That’s the Shrine of Guadalupe.
It’s a short, steep hike up the stairs. Most people do it for the view, which is the best in town. You can see the entire curve of the bay, the fishing fleet, and the mountains behind the town. It’s a quiet place. Even if you aren’t religious, there’s something grounding about standing up there while the wind whips off the sea.
Practical Advice for Your Visit
San Felipe isn't for everyone. If you want white-glove service and marble floors, go to Scottsdale. San Felipe is dusty. The power goes out sometimes. The internet is... okay, let's just say it's "leisurely."
But the people are incredibly kind. Most speak great English, but learning a few phrases in Spanish goes a long way.
Money: Cash is king. Many restaurants on the Malecon take cards, but the smaller taco stands and the gas stations (sometimes) prefer pesos. You’ll get a better exchange rate if you use pesos rather than dollars.
Safety: It’s generally safe, but use common sense. Don't drive the highways at night—not because of "banditos," but because of black cows. Range cattle love to stand in the middle of the warm asphalt after the sun goes down. Hitting a 1,200-pound steer in a Honda Civic is a losing game.
Water: Don't drink the tap water. Even the locals don't. Every rental and hotel will have "garrafones" (large jugs) of purified water. Use it for brushing your teeth too, just to be safe.
The Seasonal Rhythm
Timing is everything. From June to September, San Felipe is a furnace. It’s 100+ degrees with high humidity. The town gets quiet because it's just too hot to move.
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Spring is peak season. This is when the races happen and Spring Break brings in the crowds. If you want a party, come in March or April. If you want to actually relax and enjoy things to do in San Felipe Baja CA without the roar of engines, try November or February. The days are crisp and sunny, and the nights are cool enough for a fire on the beach.
The South Beach Vibe
If the Malecon feels too crowded, head south. The "South Beach" area, near the El Dorado Ranch and further down toward the airport, is much wider and quieter. This is where the "snowbirds" (retired expats) hang out.
The water here is shallow for a long way out. It’s perfect for paddleboarding or kayaking because the Sea of Cortez is usually as flat as a lake in the mornings. You might even see dolphins. They follow the shrimp boats in close to shore.
Final Thoughts on the San Felipe Experience
San Felipe is a place that rewards the "un-tourist." It’s for the person who likes to buy a bag of shrimp off a boat, grill it at a campsite, and watch the stars. It’s for the person who doesn't mind a little sand in their shoes and a lot of salt in their hair.
The magic isn't in some high-priced excursion. It's in the afternoon lull when the tide is out, the sun is high, and the only thing on the agenda is a nap and another round of tacos.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
To make the most of your San Felipe visit, start by checking the Baja 250 race schedule; if you aren't a fan of massive crowds and noise, you'll want to avoid those specific weekends. Download an offline map of the area (Google Maps works well) because cell service drops instantly once you leave the main town center toward the cacti valleys. Finally, make sure to pack heavy-duty sun protection and a pair of sturdy water shoes—the desert sun and the rocky tidal flats are unforgiving to the unprepared. Once you arrive, head straight to the Malecon for a late lunch to get the "lay of the land" from the locals.