Fashion is usually about the next big thing, the trend that dies in six weeks, and the relentless churn of "quiet luxury" or whatever buzzword TikTok has decided to colonize this month. But then you have Kate and Laura Mulleavy. They don’t really play by those rules. If you’ve ever looked at a dress and thought it looked less like clothing and more like a fever dream of a Victorian ghost wandering through a California redwood forest, you were probably looking at Rodarte.
They started in 2005. Two sisters from Aptos, California, with no formal fashion training. Think about that for a second. In an industry that usually demands a degree from Central Saint Martins or Parsons, they just... started making things in their parents' living room. It’s kinda wild. They had ten pieces, a suitcase, and a trip to New York that basically changed everything.
The Rodarte Origin Story Is Actually Weirder Than You Think
Most people assume there’s some secret fashion lineage here. There isn’t. Their dad was a botanist (which explains why their clothes often look like literal fungi or rare orchids) and their mom was an artist. They spent their childhoods watching horror movies and wandering around Northern California. This lack of "formal" education is exactly why Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s work feels so different. They aren't trying to follow the technical patterns taught in schools; they’re trying to build a narrative.
They’re outsiders. Honestly, that’s their superpower. When they first showed their collection to Women's Wear Daily, they didn't even have a runway show. They just had the clothes. But the clothes were so intricate, so heavily labored over, that the industry couldn't look away. We’re talking about knits that look like they’re decaying, hand-dyed silks, and textures that seem to defy physics.
Why the Film Industry Obsesses Over Them
You can’t talk about the Mulleavy sisters without talking about Black Swan. Remember Natalie Portman’s tutu? The one that looked like it was made of sharp, jagged feathers and pure psychological trauma? That was them. They designed the ballet costumes for the film, and it was a massive moment. It showed that their sensibilities—this mix of high-art beauty and underlying darkness—translated perfectly to the big screen.
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- They eventually wrote and directed their own film, Woodshock, starring Kirsten Dunst.
- It wasn't a mainstream hit, let’s be real.
- But visually? It was an extension of their brand's DNA.
- Slow, atmospheric, and obsessed with the California landscape.
People often pigeonhole them as "celebrity designers" because they’re friends with everyone from Brie Larson to the Haim sisters. But it’s deeper than that. They create a visual language that actors gravitate toward because it feels like a costume for a life that’s more interesting than our own.
The Technical Reality of Being Kate and Laura Mulleavy
There’s a misconception that their clothes are just "pretty." That’s a huge oversimplification. If you actually get up close to a Rodarte piece—maybe at a museum exhibit like their 2018 retrospective at the National Museum of Women in the Arts—you see the labor. It’s intense.
They use a lot of "deconstruction." This doesn't mean the clothes are falling apart; it means they are intentionally manipulated to show the process of making. They might burn the edges of silk. They might layer twenty different types of lace. It’s tactile. In a world where most clothes are made by machines in seconds, a Rodarte dress feels like it took a human a thousand years to finish.
Breaking Down the "California Cool" Myth
People always link them to California, but it’s not the "beach and surfing" California. It’s the Hitchcock California. The "fog rolling over the Monterey pines" California. This specific sense of place is what gives their brand its backbone. They stay in Los Angeles. They don't move to Paris or New York to be at the center of the "scene." By staying on the West Coast, they’ve managed to keep their vision from being diluted by the fashion echo chamber.
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The Business of Being Indepedent
It’s hard to stay independent. Really hard. Most brands their size eventually get bought out by a conglomerate like LVMH or Kering. Kate and Laura Mulleavy haven't done that. They’ve stayed small, which lets them skip seasons if they want to or show in a rainy cemetery in Manhattan (which they actually did for their Fall 2022 collection).
They did a collaboration with Target back in 2009. It was one of the first times high-fashion fans and everyday shoppers crashed a website together. It proved that their "weird" aesthetic had mass appeal. You didn't need to be a billionaire to want a piece of that dream. They also did a line with Coach. These partnerships are how an independent brand survives while still making $20,000 hand-sewn gowns.
What Most People Get Wrong About Rodarte
The biggest mistake is thinking they are just about the "look." The Mulleavy sisters are actually deeply intellectual about their references. One collection might be inspired by Star Wars (the 2014 collection with the literal Yoda and Luke Skywalker prints), and the next might be based on 19th-century photography or the surface of Mars.
It’s not just "fashion." It’s world-building.
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- They don't care about "trends."
- They don't care about "commercial viability" in the way a mall brand does.
- They care about the emotional reaction to a garment.
When you wear something they made, you aren't just wearing a dress. You're wearing a story about a girl who might be a wood nymph or a silent film star. Or both. It’s escapism in its purest form.
How to Apply the "Mulleavy Mindset" to Your Own Style
You don't need a Rodarte budget to take notes from Kate and Laura. Their whole vibe is about the "poetry of the handmade." Look for pieces with texture. Don't be afraid of things that look a little bit "undone."
- Mix your textures. Pair a heavy, chunky knit with a light, floaty skirt.
- Embrace the romantic and the gothic. Lace is great, but lace with a dark combat boot is better.
- Focus on the details. A single interesting vintage brooch can change the narrative of an entire outfit.
- Ignore the "rules." If two sisters from Aptos can change fashion without a degree, you can definitely wear silver shoes with a gold bag.
The Future of the Mulleavy Sisters
As we move further into an era of AI-generated everything and ultra-fast fashion, the work of Kate and Laura Mulleavy becomes more valuable. Why? Because you can’t automate soul. You can’t tell an algorithm to "make a dress that feels like the memory of a summer bonfire in 1994."
They represent the human element of design. They are still sketching, still draping, and still telling stories that don't always make sense but always make you feel something. Whether they are designing for the Met Gala or just putting out a new collection of "Radarte" sweatshirts, they remain the weird, wonderful heart of American fashion.
Real-World Steps for Fashion Enthusiasts
If you're looking to dive deeper into their world, start by researching their Fall 2008 collection. It’s often cited by fashion historians as a turning point for the brand. Look at the "cobweb" knits—they were revolutionary at the time. Next, watch Woodshock. It’s a polarizing film, but as a visual mood board for their design process, it's essential viewing. Finally, pay attention to their photography. The sisters often shoot their own lookbooks, using their friends as models, which gives a much more authentic glimpse into their universe than a standard studio shoot ever could.
Stop looking for "perfection" in your wardrobe. Start looking for pieces that have a story, even if that story is a little bit messy. That is the true legacy of Rodarte.