Richmond on the Thames is weird. Not "East London warehouse rave" weird, but weird in the sense that you can stand in a protected view of St. Paul’s Cathedral while being surrounded by literal herds of wild deer. It shouldn't exist in a city of nine million people. But it does.
Most people visit London and get stuck in the "Thames path loop" between Westminster and the Southbank. They see the brown, churning water and the concrete. If you take the District Line or the Overground all the way to the end of the line, the river changes. It turns green. It slows down. The tide still breathes here, but the air feels like it’s been filtered through several thousand acres of ancient oak trees.
I’ve spent years walking these paths. Honestly, it’s the only place in the city where you can forget you’re in the 21st century without paying for a museum ticket. You’ve got the Roebuck pub at the top of the hill, where people take their pints out onto the pavement just to stare at the bend in the river. It’s the only view in England protected by an Act of Parliament—the Richmond, Ham and Petersham Open Spaces Act 1902. You literally cannot build anything that blocks it. That’s the kind of obsessive preservation we’re dealing with here.
The Richmond Park Reality Check
Let's talk about the deer. Everyone wants to see the deer.
There are about 630 Red and Fallow deer in Richmond Park. They’ve been there since 1637 when Charles I decided he wanted a private hunting ground and essentially walled off the land, much to the annoyance of the locals. Today, they are wild animals. You’ll see tourists trying to pet them or take selfies from two feet away. Don't be that person. The Royal Parks experts, and anyone with common sense, will tell you to stay at least 50 meters away, especially during the rutting season in autumn or when the hinds have calves in the spring.
The park itself is massive. It’s 2,500 acres. To put that in perspective, you could fit seven Hyde Parks inside it. If you enter through Richmond Gate and walk toward the Isabella Plantation, you’ll find a 40-acre woodland garden that feels like a fever dream in late April and May when the azaleas bloom. It’s almost fluorescent.
But the park isn't just a big field. It’s a Site of Special Scientific Interest. It’s home to the stag beetle, which sounds terrifying but is actually a vital part of the ecosystem. The park's "veteran trees"—some of which are over 700 years old—are basically high-rise apartments for rare fungi and insects. It’s a delicate balance. The park Rangers spend half their lives trying to stop people from trampling the acid grassland, which is rarer than tropical rainforest in the UK.
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The River is the Real Main Character
Richmond on the Thames isn't just a name; it’s a geographical identity. The river here is tidal, which catches people out. You’ll be sitting at a bench outside The White Cross pub, enjoying the sun, and twenty minutes later, the Thames is literally lapping at the door. The pub has a special "high tide" entrance for a reason.
If you walk along the towpath toward Petersham, you hit the Hammerton’s Ferry. It’s a tiny, family-run boat that’s been shuttling people across the water since 1902. It costs a couple of pounds. It takes about two minutes. It’s the most inefficient and wonderful way to get across the river.
Where to Actually Eat (And Where to Avoid)
The town center can be a bit of a chain-restaurant nightmare if you aren't careful. You’ve got your usual suspects, but the real gems are tucked away.
- Petersham Nurseries: You’ve probably seen it on Instagram. It’s a garden center where you eat in a greenhouse with dirt floors. It’s expensive. It’s fancy. But the food—inspired by Skye Gyngell’s original vision—is legitimately incredible. It’s slow food.
- The Marlborough: Located on Richmond Hill. It has a massive beer garden that is basically a sanctuary during the summer.
- Gelateria Danieli: There’s usually a queue stretching down the narrow alley of Brewers Lane. Get the pistachio. Trust me. They actually supplied ice cream for the Queen’s 80th birthday.
The "Ted Lasso" Effect
We have to address it. Since 2020, Richmond has become a pilgrimage site for fans of Ted Lasso. The show is filmed largely around Richmond Green and Paved Court.
The Prince’s Head pub (the "Crown and Anchor" in the show) is real. The narrow street where Ted lives is real. What’s funny is that the locals are remarkably chill about it. You might see Jason Sudeikis or the cast hanging out, but Richmond has always been a celebrity magnet. David Attenborough lives here. Mick Jagger lived here for decades. People here are used to greatness; they just want to walk their labradors in peace.
The Green itself is one of the most beautiful urban spaces in London. It’s 12 acres of grass surrounded by Tudor-era buildings and the remains of Richmond Palace. You can still see the Old Gateway with Henry VII’s coat of arms. It’s a literal piece of 1501 sitting right next to a modern optician. On weekends, you’ll see local cricket clubs playing there. It’s incredibly British. Almost aggressively so.
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Why the Architecture Matters
Richmond isn't just pretty by accident. It’s a masterclass in Georgian and Victorian preservation. If you walk up Richmond Hill, look at the houses. We’re talking about some of the most expensive real estate in the country, but it’s not flashy like Chelsea. It’s understated.
Maids of Honour Row, built in 1724 for the ladies-in-waiting of Caroline of Ansbach, is a perfect example of Queen Anne style. Then there’s Wick House, built for the painter Sir Joshua Reynolds. The history is layered like an onion. You have the site of the Star and Garter Home, a massive red-brick landmark that used to be a hotel and then a home for disabled servicemen, now converted into luxury apartments. Its presence on the hill is inescapable.
The Logistics of a Visit
If you’re planning to come here, don’t drive. Just don’t. Parking is a nightmare and the traffic over Richmond Bridge—the oldest surviving bridge over the Thames in London (built in 1777)—is legendary for all the wrong reasons.
Take the train. The fast train from Waterloo takes about 15 to 19 minutes. The District Line is slower but gives you a nice view of the suburbs. Once you arrive, turn left out of the station and just keep walking toward the water.
A Note on the Seasons
- Spring: Go for the Isabella Plantation. It’s a riot of color.
- Summer: Rent a rowing boat. It’s harder than it looks. You will likely crash into a swan. The swans are also owned by the King, so try to avoid an international incident.
- Autumn: Richmond Park is at its most atmospheric. The mist, the rutting stags, the golden ferns.
- Winter: It’s quiet. The pubs have roaring fires. It feels like a Dickens novel, minus the cholera.
Common Misconceptions
People often think Richmond is just a park. It’s not. It’s a borough, a town, and a state of mind. They also think it’s too far away. It’s in Zone 4, but it feels like a different planet.
Another mistake: thinking you can "do" Richmond in two hours. You can't. If you don't spend at least an hour sitting by the river at Richmond Riverside (the terraced area designed by Quinlan Terry in the 80s, which looks much older than it is), you haven't really been here.
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The Hidden Gems Nobody Mentions
- The Poppy Factory: Most people walk right past it. It’s where the remembrance poppies have been made since the 1920s. They do tours, and it’s a profound piece of living history.
- Museum of Richmond: It’s small, located inside the Old Town Hall, but it explains how this place went from a tiny hamlet called Sheen to a Royal retreat.
- The Terrace Gardens: Halfway up the hill. There’s a statue of Father Thames that is strangely majestic. The gardens are impeccably kept and offer a quieter alternative to the main park.
Actionable Insights for Your Trip
If you want to experience Richmond on the Thames like someone who actually knows what they’re doing, follow this loose itinerary.
First, arrive early. Go straight to the river and walk the towpath toward Ham House. It’s a 17th-century treasure trove managed by the National Trust. The "below stairs" tour is fascinating if you're into social history.
Second, don’t eat on the main drag. Head to Church Court or Paved Court for independent cafes.
Third, make the climb. Walk up Richmond Hill for "The View." Even if you’ve seen the photos, the reality of that river bend is different. It’s wider and more peaceful than you expect.
Fourth, if you're going into the park, enter through Richmond Gate and head toward King Henry's Mound. On a clear day, there is a telescope pointed at St. Paul's Cathedral, 10 miles away. It’s a protected "viewing corridor." If someone tries to build a skyscraper in the way, the government stops them.
Finally, end your day at the waterfront. Watch the tide come in. If the water starts flooding the path, just move your chair back. That’s just life in Richmond.
Essential Gear Checklist:
- Comfortable boots: You’ll easily clock 15,000 steps.
- Binoculars: For the deer and the St. Paul’s view.
- A portable charger: The park eats phone batteries because you'll be taking photos of literally everything.
- A light raincoat: This is England, after all.
Richmond on the Thames is a reminder that cities don't have to be glass and steel. They can be oak and water. It’s expensive, it’s a bit posh, and it’s occasionally flooded, but there is nowhere else like it in the world. Stick to the paths, respect the deer, and take your time. You aren't in a rush here. Nobody is.