Sneaker culture is weirdly obsessed with nostalgia, but honestly, the red black and white jordan 12 is one of the few silhouettes that actually earns that obsession. Most shoes from 1996 look like bulky relics of a forgotten era. Not these. Tinker Hatfield, the mad scientist behind most of the Jordan line, looked at a 19th-century Japanese dress boot and a rising sun flag and thought, "Yeah, that’s a basketball shoe." He was right.
It’s iconic.
When you see that radial stitching—those lines fanning out across the leather upper—it hits different. The Jordan 12 was the first in the signature line to feature Zoom Air, and it’s arguably the most durable shoe MJ ever wore. If you’re hunting for a pair today, you’re likely looking at the "Cherry," the "Flu Game," or maybe the "Gym Red" variants. Each one tells a specific story about a guy who refused to lose, even when he was literally vibrating with a fever in a Utah hotel room.
The Flu Game Mythos and Why the Colorway Matters
We have to talk about the Black and Reds. Most people call them the "Flu Games." On June 11, 1997, Michael Jordan stepped onto the court for Game 5 of the NBA Finals against the Utah Jazz looking like he’d stumbled out of a hospital ward. He was dehydrated. He was shaky. Some say it was the flu; others swear it was "bad pizza" delivered by five mysterious guys in Park City.
Whatever it was, he dropped 38 points.
The red black and white jordan 12 he wore that night became the stuff of legend. It wasn't just a sneaker anymore; it was a symbol of grit. The original 1997 version featured a premium black tumbled leather upper with a varsity red mudguard and outsole. When Jordan Brand brought them back in 2009, they messed with the formula a bit by using nubuck and adding a little "sick face" emoji on the heel. Purists hated it. They wanted the leather. In 2016, Nike finally gave the people what they wanted with a remastered leather version that felt like the '97 pair.
The contrast is what makes it work. The black leather absorbs the light, while that bold red pebbled mudguard—designed to look like lizard skin—shouts at everyone in the room. It’s aggressive.
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The Cherry 12: The Cleaner Alternative
If the Flu Game is the dark, gritty protagonist, the "Cherry" is the flashy sidekick. This is the white and red version. It’s got a white leather upper with those same red accents on the mudguard and midsole. Jordan wore these during the 1996-97 regular season.
They’re crisp.
Finding a pair of Cherries used to be a nightmare for collectors. They hadn't seen a proper retro release for ages until recently. The white leather on these tends to hold up better over time than the darker dyes, though you’ve gotta be careful about "bleeding." Sometimes, the red dye from the mudguard can migrate into the white leather if they get wet or are stored in a humid garage. It’s a tragedy when it happens. Honestly, if you own a pair, keep them cool and dry.
Technical Specs That Actually Changed the Game
Tinker Hatfield didn’t just want a pretty shoe. He wanted a tank. The Jordan 12 is heavy compared to a modern Kobe or a LeBron NXXT Gen, but that’s because it’s built like a piece of industrial equipment.
Here is what’s actually inside that red black and white jordan 12:
- Full-length Zoom Air: This was a massive deal in '96. Usually, Zoom was just in the heel or the forefoot. Putting it across the whole sole made the transition from heel to toe feel smooth, even if the shoe itself was stiff out of the box.
- Carbon Fiber Shank Plate: If you flip the shoe over, you’ll see that checkered pattern under the clear rubber parts of the outsole. That’s a carbon fiber spring plate. it prevents the shoe from twisting and gives you energy return when you jump.
- Metal Eyelets: The top two lace loops are actual metal. They usually have a little Jumpman logo engraved on them. It adds a touch of "luxury" that Jordan was pushing for as he started to transition the brand away from just "Nike" and into its own entity.
The 12 was actually the first Jordan shoe to not feature a single Nike swoosh anywhere on the outside. It was a bold move. It signaled that the Jumpman was big enough to stand on its own two feet.
How to Spot a Fake in 2026
The secondary market is a minefield. With "UA" (unauthorized authentic) pairs getting better every year, you have to be paranoid. First, check the "JUMPMAN" tab on the side. On real pairs, the font is sharp, and the plastic tab is perfectly aligned with the stitching of the mudguard. Fakes often have sloppy, rounded letters.
Next, look at the heel. The "23" at the bottom should be deeply embossed and centered. If it looks like it was stamped on by a tired toddler, run away. Also, smell them. No, seriously. Authentic Jordans have a specific "factory glue" smell. If they smell like overwhelming chemicals or gasoline, they probably came from a sketchy basement factory.
Styling the Red Black and White Jordan 12 Without Looking Like a Middle Schooler
Let’s be real: wearing high-top basketball shoes with jeans can go wrong very quickly. You don't want to look like you're heading to a 7th-grade dance.
Because the 12 is so bulky, you need pants with some structure. Slim-straight denim works. If you wear super skinny jeans, you’ll look like you’re wearing clown shoes. If you wear baggy "JNCO" style pants, you’re hiding the best part of the shoe.
Go for a monochromatic look. If you’re rocking the Flu Games, try black cargo pants and a simple red hoodie or a vintage Bulls tee. The shoe is the centerpiece. Let it do the heavy lifting. If you’re wearing the Cherries, light-wash denim is your best friend. It leans into that 90s aesthetic without feeling like a costume.
Surprising Facts Most Heads Forget
Did you know the Jordan 12 was inspired by a woman's shoe? Tinker Hatfield has admitted in various interviews that he was looking at 19th-century women's fashion when he came up with the high-wrapped mudguard. It was about elegance and durability.
Also, the "Nippon" inspiration isn't just a rumor. The stitching on the side panels is a direct nod to the "Nisshoki," the Japanese rising sun flag. The lines represent the rays of the sun. When you combine that Eastern inspiration with an Italian-style leather construction, you get a sneaker that feels more like a piece of architecture than a piece of sporting equipment.
Is the Red Black and White Jordan 12 Still Worth the Retail Price?
Retails prices have climbed. You’re looking at $200 to $210 for a standard release now. On the resale market? It depends on the year. A deadstock pair of 2016 Flu Games will easily set you back $400 or more.
Is it worth it?
If you want a shoe that will last you five years of regular wear, yes. If you want a piece of history, absolutely. But if you’re looking for a lightweight gym shoe to run miles in, stay away. These things are heavy. They’re "lifestyle" shoes now, even if they were the pinnacle of performance in the late 90s.
The leather quality on the recent "Red Cement" or "Gym Red" versions has been surprisingly high. Nike has been using a "tumbled" leather that feels soft to the touch right out of the box, avoiding that plastic-y "synthetic" feel that plagued some of the mid-2000s releases.
Actionable Advice for Buyers
If you are currently looking for a pair of red black and white jordan 12 sneakers, follow these steps to ensure you don't get burned:
- Check the Production Date: Look at the small tag inside the shoe. Cross-reference the style code (e.g., 130690-002) on Google. If the dates on the tag don't match the official release window for that style code, they’re fake.
- Inspect the "Carbon Fiber": Tap the shank plate on the bottom with your fingernail. It should feel like hard, resonant plastic/fiber. If it feels like soft, dull rubber, it’s a counterfeit.
- The "Jumpman" Test: On the tongue, the Jumpman’s fingers should be clearly defined. On many fakes, the hand looks like a club or a blob.
- Buy from Verified Sources: Stick to platforms like GOAT, StockX, or eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee. If a deal on Facebook Marketplace seems too good to be true (like a $100 pair of Flu Games), it is.
The Jordan 12 isn't going anywhere. It’s a design that has survived three decades because it doesn't try to be anything other than what it is: a bold, aggressive, and incredibly well-made basketball shoe. Whether you’re a collector or just someone who wants one pair of "heat" in their closet, the red, black, and white versions are the gold standard. They represent the peak of Jordan’s mid-90s dominance.
Invest in a shoe tree to keep that toe box from creasing too badly, and whatever you do, don't wear them to a muddy music festival. Treat them like the icons they are.