You’re driving over the bridge into New Castle, and suddenly, there it is. That massive, gleaming white facade topped with those iconic red-roofed towers. It feels like you’ve accidentally slipped through a tear in the space-time continuum and landed straight in 1874. Honestly, Portsmouth New Hampshire Wentworth by the Sea shouldn’t even be here. It’s a miracle of preservation and, frankly, some very deep pockets. Most of the grand "wooden palaces" that once dotted the Atlantic coast burned down or were bulldozed for condos decades ago. This one stayed.
But it wasn't always this pretty.
If you had walked onto the property in the late 1980s, you would have seen a crumbling ghost. Shutters hanging by a thread. Plywood over the windows. Local kids used to sneak in to explore the decaying ballroom where world leaders once toasted to peace. It’s wild to think that a place which hosted the 1905 Treaty of Portsmouth—ending the Russo-Japanese War—was nearly lost to a wrecking ball. Today, it’s a Marriott-managed resort, but it carries a weight of history that most modern hotels just can't replicate with fancy lobby scents and high-thread-count sheets.
The 1905 Peace Treaty and the Sandwich That Changed History
Most people know the hotel for its architecture, but its real claim to fame is global diplomacy. When Theodore Roosevelt brokered the peace between Russia and Japan, he didn't actually spend much time at the hotel himself—he stayed at his home in Oyster Bay—but the delegates were basically captive residents at the Wentworth.
Imagine these high-ranking officials, dressed in heavy wool suits in the middle of a New Hampshire summer, trying to redraw the map of the world. They ate together. They argued over caviar. There’s a famous story about the "Treaty Sandwich" that the hotel’s chef created to keep the delegates happy during long negotiations. It was essentially a fancy club sandwich, but the fact that food played such a role in cooling down international tensions is just such a New England detail.
The hotel was the stage. The delegates stayed for weeks. It’s actually the only time a Nobel Peace Prize has been awarded for work done on American soil, and while Roosevelt got the medal, the Wentworth provided the backdrop. You can still feel that gravity when you walk into the lobby. It’s big. It’s formal. But it also feels weirdly cozy if you find a corner near the fireplace.
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What Most People Miss About the Recent Renovations
After the hotel reopened in 2003, following a massive $30 million restoration, people thought the work was done. It wasn't. Keeping a massive Victorian structure alive in the salty, brutal air of the New Hampshire coast is a constant battle.
The salt air eats everything.
The Little Details That Matter
- The wood rot is a perpetual enemy; crews are almost always touching up the white paint.
- The original "L-shape" of the building was carefully preserved even when they added modern amenities like the spa.
- Look at the windows. Many are modern for efficiency, but the shapes mimic the 19th-century originals perfectly.
If you’re staying there, don't just stay in your room. The real magic of Portsmouth New Hampshire Wentworth by the Sea is in the common areas. The grand staircase is a workout, sure, but it’s also a masterpiece of joinery. They don't build stairs like that anymore because it’s too expensive and takes too much time. Everything now is pre-fab. This place is the opposite of pre-fab.
Is the Food Actually Worth the Price Tag?
Let’s be real for a second. Often, at these historic resorts, you’re paying for the view and the "vibes," while the food is just... okay. Salt Kitchen & Bar has had its ups and downs over the years, but currently, it’s leaning hard into the "Portsmouth local" scene.
You’ve got to try the seafood. Obviously. But specifically, look for the local oysters from the Great Bay. Portsmouth has a burgeoning aquaculture scene that’s actually rivaling some of the big names in the Chesapeake or Duxbury. The chefs here generally know not to mess with the product too much. A bit of mignonette, maybe a squeeze of lemon, and you’re done.
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The bar scene is where the hotel actually feels alive. In the evening, you get a mix of hotel guests in blazers and locals from New Castle who just want a decent martini. It’s one of the few places where the "Old Money" feel of New Castle meets the modern, foodie energy of Portsmouth. It’s sort of pretentious, but in a way that’s more "charming historic" than "exclusive country club."
The Logistics: Staying in New Castle vs. Downtown Portsmouth
One thing that trips up travelers is the location. The Wentworth is in New Castle, which is technically a separate town on an island right next to Portsmouth.
- Distance: You’re about a 10-minute drive from Market Square in downtown Portsmouth.
- Parking: It’s a nightmare in town. The Wentworth has plenty of it, which is a huge plus.
- The Vibe: New Castle is quiet. Like, "you can hear the buoy bells at night" quiet. Downtown Portsmouth is loud, bustling, and full of brick-paved charm.
If you want to walk out of your hotel and immediately hit a dozen boutiques and coffee shops, this isn't the spot. But if you want to wake up, look at the marina, and feel like you own a shipping empire, then yeah, this is it.
The marina is a whole other world. You’ll see yachts there that look like they belong in the Mediterranean. Walking the docks at sunset is free, and honestly, it’s one of the best things to do on the property. You get that perfect view of the hotel’s towers reflecting in the water.
The "Haunted" Reputation: Fact or Fiction?
Every old hotel claims to have a ghost. It helps sell rooms in October. The Wentworth is no different. Staff members have told stories for years about "The Lady in White" or strange cold spots in the older wings.
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Does a ghost actually live there? Probably not. But when you’re walking down a long, dimly lit hallway at 11:00 PM and the floorboards are creaking under your feet because the building is over 150 years old... your brain starts playing tricks. The hotel doesn't lean too heavily into the "spooky" marketing, which I appreciate. They focus on the dignity of the place. But the history is so thick you can almost touch it, and that’s its own kind of haunting.
Planning Your Visit: Real Advice
Don't go in the dead of winter unless you really love the "Shining" vibes. It’s beautiful, but New Castle is windswept and cold. Late September or early October is the sweet spot. The humidity has dropped, the leaves are starting to turn, and the tourists who clog up the Portsmouth streets have mostly gone home.
A few pro-tips for the savvy traveler:
- Request a room in the original building. The newer wings are fine, but you lose that sense of history. You want the high ceilings and the slightly quirky layouts of the Victorian era.
- Check the event calendar. This is a huge wedding destination. If you hate crowds and loud music, make sure you aren't booking on a Saturday night in June when three different wedding parties are descending on the ballroom.
- Drive the "Loop." Take Route 1B through New Castle. It’s one of the most scenic drives in New England. You’ll pass the Coast Guard station, Fort Constitution, and some of the most expensive real estate in the state.
The Verdict on Wentworth by the Sea
Is it a bit pricey? Yeah. Can the service sometimes feel a little "corporate" because it’s a Marriott property? Occasionally. But there is simply nowhere else in New Hampshire—or most of the Northeast—where you can stay in a building this grand that has survived so much.
From the brink of demolition to a modern luxury staple, the Portsmouth New Hampshire Wentworth by the Sea is a survivor. It represents a time when travel was an event, not a chore. Even if you don't stay the night, it’s worth stopping by for a drink just to stand under those red domes and imagine the world leaders who once did the exact same thing.
Actionable Next Steps
To make the most of a trip to the Portsmouth area and the Wentworth, start by booking a dinner reservation at Salt Kitchen & Bar at least two weeks in advance, especially for weekend slots. If you're interested in the history, visit the Portsmouth Athenaeum downtown first; they have incredible archives and often display artifacts related to the 1905 Peace Treaty. Finally, schedule a walk through Fort Constitution (just down the road in New Castle) before your check-in. It provides the perfect historical context for the military and maritime importance of the waters the hotel overlooks.
Always check the tides if you plan on doing any local kayaking or boating from the marina, as the Piscataqua River has one of the fastest currents in North America. This isn't just a safety tip—it's a necessity for anyone wanting to get out on the water. Enjoy the salt air; it's been the main draw here since the 1870s for a reason.